The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

My 8.4'' diff fits a T100/tundra axle so switch axle won't make a difference on my diff. I just swap my regeared diff over with the locker too.

And i am hoping to boost or get more power to handle highway stuff better and go fast as well. But 33s was bad enough with my rig. I have to be in 3rd most the time going up hills if i want to maintain hwy speeds. Mostly not just due to the tires, but also the roof rack and just weight in general. Thats where i think ill benefit a lot from regearing.

An 4 lo feels fast to me..way fast now for crawling. again, i thought 33s were bad enough..but again, big difference is weight here. You had a bobbed bed and like way less gear when you wheel vs me. I need lower range and mroe power one way or another..

Crawl box is still in my plans..just not sure i want to do it before regear and a locker...Lot of money...its all a lot of money

 

WTF? You mean you're not going with the ford 9" like I suggested??

 

hahaha


no...



least...i doubt it. unless i decide to do 100% race truck....

 

Becauseracetruck

 

which i doubt..cause i still enjoy the long trip stuff a lot....unless the double cab ends up the comfort long trip trail rig...then..racetruck.

 

Maybe you can pick up Jason's gusseted Tundra axle when he goes to a linked 9"

I don't know if he is actually getting rid of it but I think links are going to show up on his rig sometime this year the way he has been talking.

 

yea who knows..

 

gearing is a whole different bag of worms with a manual. Personally I don't think a regear is necessary with the auto, but in 4lo with a manual I can totally see the need to regear.

 

yea..a down fall of the manual i suppose. But not a horrible one.

 

Just an extra step needed for good control offroad. When I had my FJ40 the stock crawl ratio is not great. Something like 23:1. When I went to 35's on my 40 it was just not slow enough in 4lo and I had no control. Went to 4.88's and it helped but still wasn't great since that got it back in the same range as stock. Then I changed to an SM420 manual transmission with a 7:1 first gear. That jumped my crawl ratio to 82:1 and completely changed the game offroad. First gear was useless on the road and I just started out in 2nd gear which was fine. But man that 7:1 first gear was freakin awesome offroad. I could run entire trails without touching the gas or the brake. Just steer the truck and crawl over everything. When I had my 1993 SAS truck I had a Marlin Ultimate dual case crawler with a crawl ratio of 223:1. That was stupid slow in full 4lo. I could get out of the truck and walk along side of it over obstacles and reach in the window and steer a little when needed.

Lower gears and/or a crawlbox is just a necessary part of the mod list for a manual transmission truck. I've been there and know the benefits. It hasn't been necessary in either of my Auto trans trucks (Tacoma and my FZJ80). Granted I can't crawl over stuff without ever touching the pedals, but the auto makes it easy to crawl with good control, even with big tires. Lower gears will still help get those big tires moving but aren't as necessary.

There's really no point in an argument about which is better (auto vs manual) they're just different. Everyone has a preference which is fine, and the truth is that the type of terrain you wheel has a lot to do with which one will work best.

 

Damn!! I want a first gear like that haha

Then I'd be happy..but I'm thinking a crawlbox and diff gears will be in the works for me. If I can come up with that kinda cash...

Yea totally agree though. Both re great in their own ways. I like em both. Have no problem wheeling with either.

 

There's a guy on pirate wow mated two sm465s together. You want to talk about gear ratio. Double reverse close to 47ish:1 and that's before the tcase.

 

That would be awesome! My Dad had an old 73 GMC Sierra that had a 6.5:1 1st gear, but that was back when most trucks had the old Granny first gear and Shift knobs read L-1-2-3, instead of 1-2-3-4.













Check this out. While I had my CV out rebooting it, Konsta pulled out his spare parts and the outer shafts on the 1st and 2nd gen CV's are the same size, but the actual outer joint is bigger. I think the main shaft is the same size as well. The inners are different though. The 2nd gen inner shaft is bigger so a 2nd gen CV won't fit into a 1st gen diff, but if the shafts are the same size you could just put a 1st gen inner on a 2nd gen CV and put it in your diff.

There are 2 downsides though. Fully compressed and measuring off the back of the spindle, the 1st gen CV measured just under 19.5" and the 2nd gen measured 21.75", but that could mean they will work for a +3.5" kit on a 1st gen.

The other downside is having the stronger CV's will probably mean you will just start snapping that ADD shaft all the time and that is a pain in the ass to swap... I helped Konsta when he broke his.


But! If you get you hands on a 2nd gen diff, you might be able to run a +3.5" 1st gen LT kit on a 2nd gen diff using OEM 2nd gen CV axles. That would make finding spares cheap and easy! Hell Napa sells reman'd ones for about $80 with a core.

2nd gen CV, 1st gen Spindle


The shaft is a tad short since the shaft is a bit fatter right at the front, but Konsta said it looks just like his does with the spacers he has to run on his CV's for his drop bracket lift. Just put the red loctite on there and it should be fine. Konsta's have been.

 

yea but also remember when we measured how wide the diff was with the axle tube and such it was like..1.5'' wider per side or something..so id need what..4.5'' wide kit?? and it would be the same travel as a 3.5'' due to the CVs limiting it..i think...right?

I just remember the diff is wider. Otherwise id be down to try and swap one in..Be nice to not worry as much about breaking a diff on 35s.

Tundra CVs hold up to 35s just fine though.

 

I couldn't remember what we measured the diffs at, but I imagined they had to be pretty close to the same. A 2nd gen WMS to WMS is 4" wider than a 2nd gen, so 2" per side and the 2nd gen CV's are 2.25" wider when fully compressed. We should have stretched them out and measured to see how much difference there was there I guess.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...d-gens-who-have-removed-their-front-diff.html

1.5'' wider per side not counting the CVs..

 

Holy shit there was a thread for that! haha. I just thought that info was buried somewhere deep in this thread or the ID BS thread.

 

nope i asked about it and made a thread in the 2nd gen section when i was really thinkin about it..haha

amazgingly took me no time to find..haha

but yea. I still would consider this..be nice to have a stronger diff up front..

 

you and monte were the thread. how did you forget that

 

I remembered the conversation, just not the numbers. haha Besides we talk so much in this thread and the ID BS thread that I don't remember what was said where after like a week. haha