The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

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Thanks man! Good to know.

 

I know I am jumping in late but the key with a limited slip or locker is that you have a much stronger carrier. I have grenaded a few front diffs on my taco along with many rears on other trucks. All were started by the spider gears chipping from a weak carrier flexing. (Jeep Dana 35 and Chrysler 9.25, GM 10 bolt), on a few put lunchbox lockers in and proceeded to eat them up because they rely on the stock carrier for strength also. Replaced with a Detroit locker and never had problems again.

just my experience and 2 cents for what its worth

 

yes i know how i drive my truck shit is going to break. i creep through shit i have to, no other trucks out there keep up with me. im usually with rhinos and RZRs.

for instance, have any of you ever been to glamis? dune it through the actual big dunes? thats what i use my truck for.
last front diff i broke in 4th gear in 4 lo at the red line going through woops to get up olds mobile. massive woops. yes i know doing this high in the RPMs tires going on and off the ground a bunch is NOT GOOD. but you know what, its the price im willing to pay to drive my truck like a trophy truck.
do i have to fix something on my truck every time i drive it? pretty much.
but you know what? im having more fun than any of you fuckers so i could care less

i love the skinny.....

so does an ARB put 4 spiders in the front do you know?

and yes i suffer from bad driver issues pretty bad ask anyone that knows me i GO FOR BROKE!! hehe

how does it make the carrier stronger? care to explain?
i also agree its always from the spider gears chipping.
i just got my first front diff that has a locker in it so im excited to try it out.
Please Note: after i broke my last front diff, i told myself i would not drive my truck like i do anymore. im not using it for the dunes anymore, only crawling. because i never break crawling. its always going balls to the walls. so i just got myself a toy that i can take balls to the walls without breaking.
also sorry for the slight thread jack.

 

I am not 100% on if arb has 4 spider gears..but I would not be suprised. I'd have to look it up..it makes the carrier stronger because it replaces the entire assembly. Literally.

No such thing as a thread jack in here lol this build thread isn't huge for no reason.

 

According to this. Yes there are 4 spider gears



http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/images/F5419377.jpg

 

So might have been covered but what are your plans for your rear? Going LT, shock relocates, or keeping it stock?

 

NICE!!!! thats awesome. thus making the spider gears twice as strong right? double the surface area?

 

Mid travel.

T100 axle with shock relocated to outside the frame. Probably 12s. Maybe 14s. Rear hydros. Going to swap to a longer rear shackle and new AAL.

Hold me off for a while. Then I'll either cave and go full lt out back or save for 4 link hopefully.

Not really. Stock has 4 too. It's how the diff works.

This is my front when I regeared.


Front diff gears-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now..that doesn't mean the ARB spiders arent stronger. They should be still.

 

Monte... you have me thinking bout rear axles...

Does anyone happen to know if I could swap in a 2nd gen tundra axle to my 2nd gen taco? I would assume they are wider and bigger correct?

 

Well..anything is possible..lol

Diff is much larger. 9.5" vs your 8".

I'm not sure what the WMS is for a 2nd gen tundra. Youd have to run 17" rims though for the brakes I believe. And relocate the leaf perches but that's no biggie.

 

Why outside the frame? You more interested in flex or going fast?

 

Go fast. Out side the frame makes the shocks dampen more efficient. And it's easy to stuff a bigger shock there. But it'll still flex good I am sure. I'll have the hoops poking through into the bed juuuuussstt barely..


Dakota. I lied. It's a 10.5" diff not 9.5".

Also found this

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-full-width-axle-2007-tacoma.html#post6729300

 

Well LT will already make me wider up front, I'll figure it out. Already got 17s. And yeah no biggie.

Monte you're the best!! This is great

 

About what exactly..

 

The shock being closer to the wheel means the shock is more directly related with the wheel travel. The further in on the axle the more leverage the wheel has and the more work the shock has to do...make sense?

 

Be a cool swap for sure. Big ass diff. Much stronger for sure.

 

Not talking temps.

Talking how effective the shock is at doing its job. Which is dampening control. Which it does better further out on the axle.

Thus

More efficient.

Temps are gonna be high on shocks if you are mobbing no matter what at some point. That's what resi's are for.

 

It seems like the shocks main purpose is to tune the wheel oscillations. That would mean the further outboard it is the easier it would be to tune and more incremental control is possible.

 

Now when you relocate the shocks to the outside, do you keep the shocks opposite of eachother when mounted on the diff. Or do you mount both on the back side of the diff.