Thoughts on 37s

Supposedly 16.5s don't like to hold a bead without beadlocks. I have no first hand experience to verify that.

The cost of the recentered H1 wheels pretty much offsets the savings of buying used .mil tires. I think I was looking at about $1700 for a set of 5 with the PVC inserts

 

So for a mostly mall crawler and the occasional off-roading in 2wd so not airing down much would 16.5's nonbeadlocks be safe?

 

Found this on N0rth's build page for those considering 36's. I know this is the 37's thread, but.....I'm the OP and I'll do as I please

 

That's the impression I'm under. Especially if you carry the gear to reseat a bead and inflate on the trail should something bad happen. A CO2 tank and ratchet straps being the first things to come to mind

 

Yes, they will be safe. Ford pickups came from the factory with them for years and nothing happened. You can safely air them down to 15psi no problem, just don't huck it through the corners too hard. Semi trucks and most all big rigs also have no "safety bead" and they drive millions of miles. The bead area is more flat so they can safely support a much heavier load than light truck tires (like the taco comes with). Both of my spares are on the Pro-comp steelies (non-beadlock) and they work just fine. Keep in mind you'll need a small spacer with steel wheels to clear the calipers up front. I have 1/2" spacers, but you might be able to get away with 1/4".

 

You went with ARP studs up front too didnt you?

 

He has them on all 4 corners I believe.

 

All around. The stock ones break pretty easy, and with heavy tires it's sure a good idea to upgrade them with longer stronger studs. Sure makes it easy to swap tires around too, the wheel just lines up on the studs easier and with the quick start snouts you can start the nuts just like a Nascar pit crew.

 

Coooool. Another one of those details I've overlooked.

 

I have 37s in 2.5"lift and I don't rub

 

Pics when u get a chance pls!
You are a tad wider if that helps with clearance

 

That sounds like a pain in the nuts to install

 

The axle? Nah, it took a few hours but a lot of it was sitting around watching paint dry. I bet I could have the whole axle out and in pieces in half an hour, full floaters are much easier to work on than the stock axle.

 

You don't need lift to clear tires.

You need a grinder.

 

I meant the front hubs. I figure if I do it I'll have them installed while I'm getting my wheel bearings replaced

 

They studs are easy to install too. Just knock the old ones out with a hammer, and use a lug nut to seat the splines of the new one.

 

You have to press the hub apart first though don't you?

 

No. Just jack up the truck, take the tire off, take the brake caliper off (two bolts) and slide the rotor off. Then knock the old ones out. There is room at 3 and 6 o'clock to slide the old ones out and new ones in. Then use a nut to force the splines of the lug bolt into the hub. I suppose you are supposed to use a hydraulic press, but that way works. In the rear on a stock axle the backing plate gets in the way. You can get the old ones out, but the longer new ones won't fit. I used a step bit to drill a 1/2" hole (or so) in the backing plate directly behind the stud.

 

Oh I gotta have my lift!
Yea doesn't help much when flexing. Was hoping for some pics for comparison b4 I go into phase 2 of clearancing

 

Heres how you clearance for 4wd 2" LT, which requires alot of cutting.