Thoughts on 37s

This is going to sound weird. Aquanet hair spray produces massive flame balls. Also spray paint works in a pinch, but then you end up with paint all over. The trick to using any propellent is getting the right air/fuel ratio. It takes less than you think, like spray one lap around the rim then flick the match and have the air hose ready, as the air in the tire cools it will pull itself back off the bead.

 

lol - I've done that a few times but with carb cleaner.

Lost a bead this past weekend @ Rausch but the wheel was too bent to get it to seat back in. Steelies are the way to go.

Hey Cap - how about a few shots of your firewall surgery?

 

Thoughts on SASing.... So I have a possible line on a full built dana front and rear with gears and ARB's. All the linkage and possibly the coilovers too. Pretty much everything I would need to do my undercarriage on a 2nd gen tacoma.

The big problem is that its a right side drive front axle. Are there any options in changing mine to right side drive?

 

There's a member close to me in MD who's in the process of flipping a toyota axle from a right side drop to a left... A LOT of custom fab work to make it happen.

 

I thought inchworm made an adapter to use a right side drop t-case? If not, just buy an Atlas and be done.

 

^^^This. I've used this trick a few times now. My mid grade ARB seats beads easy enough.

 

Maybe Ill do some calling around. Ive got a crawl box ordered already so I better figure it out before they ship it

 

I think it's the 16.5 not having the safety bead that makes it more difficult. Normally that's the first thing that seals, then it pops over when you get up to a decent pressure.

I tried a dinky little 1.5" ratchet strap and failed. Gonna get a 3" and try again just for the learning experience.

I have a MasterFlow 1050, I'm hoping its enough but I kinda doubt it. I was going to hardwire it to the truck but now I think I might need something bigger. I'd love to rig it and the Cheetah into some sort of OBA system that could also be used to seat beads, but I don't know if it would work. Might have to enlist the help of people smarter than me on that one

 

I'll post them as soon as it happens. My 255s are on right now. I'm waiting for my BL to get delivered and Eddy to have a free weekend. Then its BL, Cab mount relocate and firewall/fender chop. Hopefully all that can be knocked out in a day with us both working. Right now it looks like that will be the first weekend in May.

 

Link to a build thread when you get started, I'd like to follow along or come check it out. I'm almost done with a new Currie 9" arb rear and plan to sas it in a year or two. Sounds like it's most important to properly reinforce the front frame as our 2nd gen frames are weak. Sounds like SupraTT might be good source of reference.

 

Yeah the strap works every time. Def a great tip to know. The either is for when for some reason you can't use a strap or you just wanna do something cool. Haha which the times I've done it, I just wanted to use fire

You may be right about the 16.5s. But still, the tire seats to something. A strap should push the tire out until it hits something to seal against.

 

Well that was a fucking disaster. I got my extended studs today. Put them in the driver side with no problems.

Moved to the passenger, which I've replaced the hub in, knocked out all the studs , and the new ones wouldn't fit. The holes in the hub are a hair smaller and the shanks of the stud BARELY fit. The splines were a complete no go. I had to bang it back out and luckily I got 5 of 6 of the old studs back in. One snapped in the process. Now I guess I need to get my old OEM hub rebuilt so I can put my extended studs in it.

What a pain in the ass.

 

Weird. If it were me, I'd get a drill bit and open those holes up an RCH.

 

I might end up doing that if I can beat this broken stud out

 

The tires I'm looking at are 37 13.50... I wonder how hard that extra inch will be to clear.... I know b.s. will be key. I have 4" b.s. wheels with 1.5" spacers right now. If I remove the spacer how much would that help?

 

Removing spacers might make it worse imo.
With that width prepare to do lil extra clearancing

 

I'm liking the Goodyear military MTR with 80% tread at $400 for 4

 

Got my wheel studs on today and most of the cab portion of the body lift. One of the rear bolts does NOT want to go all the way through the body mount. I hung an impact on it and it does nothing. It's in a terrible spot to swing a hammer so I can't beat it the rest of the way though. Going to get an air hammer tomorrow and see if that will drive it through

 

Oh and apparently I through my rear brakes way out of adjustment when I was putting the drums back on because my ebrake no longer works

 

And the truck doesn't really stop. Glad I didn't have anywhere to go. Gotta pull the rear wheels first thing in the morning. What a cluster fuck I'm turning this into