Throttle position sensor 89452-35030

Ordered

 

MAF screws are JIS. Looks like one had been mangled at some point before I bought it.

 

Klein makes a stubby w/ removable #1&2 flathead & Phillips that works perfectly with the maf screws. $11.00 at home derpo.

 

The stubby JIS just arrived this afternoon. This one fit the TPS screws so perfectly that its like plugging into a socket.

 

So first off I've read this whole thread and thanks for all the info fellas. I guess I have the worst luck tho because I just purchased this 2001 4runner and it wouldn't start after I had driven it and got the engine up to temp. Did a little bit of google troubleshooting while sitting in the parking lot and saw that it might be the tps. I proceeded to tap on the Tps and boom started right up. Drove home to have the same issue when I shut her off and tried to restart. Pulled the tps off didn't know it was calibrated by position put it back on and couldn't get the old girl to give it up after that. Found this thread adjusted the position a few times and now she starts but still have a dead 4runner once the engine is up to temp and I shut it off. Only had it for a week and I haven't messed with the tps before this so I'm guessing I'm in the search for one like everyone else. Just noticing I missed the boat by 6 weeks or so.

 

Stumbled on this too late to get one from parts geek also, but I found a seller on ebay, bought the last of 2? Anyway, it looks right. putting it on tomorrow. printed out the pdf, not sure how to make that work for calibration. I'll measure actual throttle position with the obdII reader, as well as ohms on the various sensors before I take off the old one and hope I can get it back on right and line it up close to those numbers.

 

I also bought one from the seller. I’m going to change it out this weekend, not too sure about the calibration part though.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/aisan-throttle-position-se-c70121324701ais/11965510-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15005|L3*15656#product-applications-d.

We emailed the company and initially they said they don't sell the part separately from the throttle body. Then they emailed us back and said they researched it more and sent us this link. We used the aisan part number from parts geek. Looks right to me. One of the super cool dudes on this thread sold me one of his back ups so I no longer need one. Just posting the link for others hope it works

 

Cheaper than PartsGeek and free shipping! @Madjik_Man get one of these!

 

Oh man that gets me worked up seeing that Japanese precision machining

 

Thank you for the tag.

Partsgeek can kiss my nuts.

edit: advance is out of stock too.

 

Damn that was quick

 

What company did you email? Aisan?

 

Some tps sensors can be fixed bye cycling the throttle when the truck is off. It takes 100 slow full throttle cycles of the pedal or you can turn the butterfly by hand this cleans the electrical connection inside the tps bye sweeping it.

 

I tried this. I did not have success. Another guy on here did. Your mileage may vary, but it's worth doing this first.

 

Problem is that just turning the throttle shaft only moves the tps 20%. You have to remove it to get a full sweep from o% to 100% throttle.

 

This can work. Like others have said, YMMV. Basically you’re cleaning the “tracks” of the potentiometer of the TPS. I’ve used this quite a few times on my 04. Usually yielded a few thousand miles before it would act up again.

 

Not that it matters much but, I installed my “new” Parts Geek TPS today. Had to adjust/clock it a bit for correct idle and throttle position. Took a short spin around. Cleared code and runs great.

 

Short synopsis; Received TPS from ebay seller, correct number looked fine. Installed, worked fine, however, it did not fix the truck. In the process of installing new TPS, though, I ohmed the tps connectors through their range, both original part and new part, as well as the APPS, because the aforementioned procedure said to check it. Wish I'd done that before I ordered the TPS, because the APPS had a clear dead spot surrounded by some non-linear ohm readings around the mid-throttle region - heck. Cant order an APPS no matter what you try, so I ordered a new throttle body anyway from Parts geek, because the truck was rapidly getting un-driveable. Installed new throttle body and truck is well again. So the moral is, check the APPS too, it might be the problem. Symptoms were dead pedal (but it hadn't done that for months) , and a shudder/stutter at part throttle operation, especially under load. I have also very recently replaced all 6 injectors, which made the truck run noticeably better, but still not fixed.

Sidebar; I had an epiphany while ohming these sensors, because the readings on the new TPS were so far different from the old that there was no way to orient the new one to match the readings of the old one. Old TPS had a base reading of about 1350 ohms, and this reading fell linearly as the throttle came open on two of the three pins, with the third staying constant, with regard to the ground pin. The new TPS started at around 1850 ohms. Both in spec, but quite different readings at closed throttle or open throttle, like I said. The APPS is similar, with two pins that get lower ohm readings as the throttle is opened, and one that is constant with regard to the ground pin. The new TPS worked fine, and as a previous poster said, it was easy to set the orientation so I had normal idle speeds, and that orientation was almost exactly the same as the old sensor, even though the ohm readings were different by 500 ohms! And then I got it. The fixed ohms pin is the reference, and the ECM measures TPS and APPS by subtracting the reference pin reading from the variable ohm readings (it measures voltages actually), to get throttle and accelerator positions. So that's how the readings can be so different and work just fine anyway.

A warning; MAF sensor cleaner is not a good electrical parts cleaner in a pinch, at least not as far as the APPS is concerned. There is a very small breather hole on the back-side if you remove the APPS from the TB, it is possible to squirt some cleaner in there. In my case I made a truck that was mostly driveable into one that was rapidly becoming not driveable. You've been warned.

Good luck all
John