Throwout bearing again!!

I agree. My 1996 Tacoma 2.7l did the same. After replacing the entire clutch, and bearing twice the noise always returned.
If it makes you feel any better, the clutch/bearing last over 400,000kms without issue other then the noise.

I just got used to it I guess.
What makes it even more frustrating is that this issue has been going on for almost 20 years!!! With no resolution from Toyota.

Shawn.

 

For 6 cylinder models I've posted is a $15 parts solution, but people just whine and keep changing TOBs.

 

Wow, what are you charging for labour, $1 an hour? You can work on my truck anytime at that rate.

Perhaps Toyota should have implemented your fix 20 years ago. How long does a problem have to exist on several different generations before you deem it OK for people to express their frustration and "whine"?

Perhaps you have a $15 fix for frame rust? Maybe for leaf springs? Noisy blower motors? Creaking clutch pedals? All issues where present in 1996 on the first gen Tacoma and still exist 20 years later.
Is it ok for people to express frustration on waiting 4 months for a frame?

Shawn

 

Mega-whining!

I'm not saying the Tacoma is the perfect truck, but it's the truck I have so if I see a problem I try to fix it. The TOB on Tacoma's does not have sufficient pre-load so it wobbles, wears and makes noise. I have found (and posted) a fix that needs about $15 in parts to solve the problem. You can whine, spend money and have this problem or do what I did and not have it...your choice. And yes I do wish Toyota would fix it, but they don't.

 

^^^This is the same thing a LUK (LUK Clutches) "technical services" rep told me in a long conversation I had with him about what makes the TO bearings chirp.

The TO bearing chirp seems to go away as you have stated in your post and your thread and may last for a long time as indicated by a few who have slightly increased the preload by adjusting the rod on the master cylinder. How many miles has it been since you tried a different preload at the slave cylinder?

What is puzzling is the PDM/URD fix is a totally different approach being a correction to the wobbling of the TO bearing on the input shaft of the quill of the transmission by using a sleeve and modifications to an existing bearing. It is supposed to be a permanent fix but then you run across a couple of posts here and there that say the problem chirping then returned after trying the PDM/URD fix.

Still even more puzzling are the reports of finding the TO bearing dry when it was removed from the truck or FJ Cruiser (same setup on the FJ).

Maybe at the end of the day stopping the wobble of the bearing against the fingers of the pressure plate is key here whichever method works.

 

Playing with the master cylinder has nothing to do with the TO bearing problem. People just don't understand how the system works.

The URD fix fixes the symptom and not the problem. The bearing spins on the steel sleeve with less noise for a while.

I fixed my slave cylinder about 10k km ago (6k miles) and it's working perfectly fine. Someday others might arrive at the obvious. Your last sentence is true.

 

UPDATE:

The dealer had me contact Toyota who created a case# for me and it seemed like they were going to assist with fixing my bearing. But in the end Toyota denied lending me assistance, the reason they gave me was since I don't have the oil changed at the dealership I'm therefore not a loyal customer. Wow.

Regarding the URD kit, it sounds like they have a fix for 4 cylinders per the email exchange I had with them below if anybody wants to pursue this. I'll let you all know how this turns out if I end up going this route:
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FROM: info@urdusa.com TO: fohlkmann
It will be $225. It is not listed on our site. Steve (Gadget) Dopler

FROM: fohlkmann TO: info@urdusa.com
I'm in the middle of contacting Toyota over this first because it seems unreasonable to me they aren't covering this problem under warranty, but I doubt they'll help me. I've had to replace this part twice with only 23k miles on the truck. The 6 cylinder is covered under warranty, but not the 4 cylinder.

How much does this other kit you mention cost? Can you tell me where it's located on your site? I'm looking forward to purchasing this from you and fixing this issue permanently.

FROM: info@urdusa.com TO: fohlkmann
No that will not work for your truck. I can supply you with one that will. You will need to call to place your order. Steve (Gadget) Dopler

FROM: fohlkmann TO: info@urdusa.com
Can you tell me if your below item also applies to my 2010 Tacoma 4-cylinder 5-speed manual transmission? I have the same issue as the 6-cylinder which this kit fixes. I hope it's compatible.

Throwout Bearing UPGRADE/REPAIR KIT, 2005+ Tacoma V6 6-Speed [TSK45]
http://urdusa.com/store/Clutch-and-...ADE/REPAIR-KIT,-2005+-Tacoma-V6-6-Speed/produ ct_info.html
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I can't even.

 

The pictures and more importantly the write up that TMASS posted on page 18 of this thread proves what this problem is. It's also proof of what I've been saying for two years.

For those that don't want to read it all here's the relevant quote from the TMASS post:

"When viewing the operation of the Release Bearing with the engine running and the cover removed, the technician should be able to demonstrate the wobble using a flashlight. Applying a small amount of pressure to the slave cylinder shaft which moves the Fork, should stablize the Release Bearing enough to stop the chirp."

 

Forgive my ignorance, but would adding a little bit of pressure to my clutch pedal (adjust the pushrod out about 3/4") stop the squeal? Or will that just cause more problems?

 

If you adjust it too far u risk the bearing pushing on the pressure plate enough to cause a lil too much slip on your friction plate thus wearing out your clutch

 

I drove around testing it with foot pressure, and I found a spot that stops the squeal but doesn't slip the clutch (even towing, or going up my very steep driveway).

Will that do more damage?

 

It'll probably be fine, might wear the throwout bearing quicker since there's a small load on it

 

Refer to hiadun's post #390 above. Adding a little bit of additional preload seems to be a controversial topic in this thread but there are those who have done it with success for many miles. Perhaps hiadun can comment on how many miles he has put on his truck with his modification. Also, he is not adjusting the pushrod but changing the spring in the slave cylinder.

A few years ago I had a long conversation with an engineer at LUK about the Tacoma clutch. They were once one of the two suppliers for the 2nd gen production trucks. He commented that he believed the noise was really a lack of sufficient preload because the T/O bearing was wobbling a bit and not riding sufficiently against the fingers so it creates the chirping from the slop. Take it for what its worth.

 

I changed the spring in my slave cylinder. Didn't do shit.

 

Based on my research and this statement by URD, I think the return spring is another bandaid fix.

It says that the TOB will quiet down because you're lightly engaging the PP fingers, but ultimately this will just cause premature wear and failure of the bearing.

 

here is the fix for all release bearing noise on xrummer 6 spd clutch...
http://urdusa.com/store/p1260519023...IT,-2005+-Tacoma-V6-6-Speed/product_info.html

 

As reported in another thread, I just completed a complete rebuild of the 6-speed, blueprinting it (to the extent possible) and used all the updated parts.

If you use the quill (snout, input) kit one thing you should know is the transmission snout is aluminum and super-thin, to the extent that mine kind of rings when tapped on. The Allen set screws that came with my kit had very sharp points on the end. I would be real concerned about tightening them as it seems that it would be easy to create a stress crack around the base and actually break the snout. There are reports and images online of such breakage after installation of the kit but the cause is not specifically known. On my new rebuilt I'm thinking about a permanent installation of the quill kit using a slight bit of one of the threadlockers made for sleeves at the base, or something similar, file off the sharp points of the Allen set screws and only very slightly tighten them. JB Weld also works well on very clean aluminum.

Another thing I tried on the last T/O bearing was to vacuum inject it with a little PTFE grease (SuperLube) as the old bearing I disassembled had virtually no grease inside. I got an old vacuum pump at a pawn shop, and bought a small cheap vacuum chamber on ebay, used the high temp EP version of the SuperLube Grease (about 15% PTFE), thinned it some with an ISO 160 PTFE oil (also SuperLube), packed it around the outside of the seals after cleaning off surface dust, lint with a small artist brush. Its pretty neat watching bubbles rise and then when the vacuum is reversed the mix taken inside. I did not use a lot because I did not want it leaking out. So far no leakage at 30k mi. and you can take off the inspection plate periodically. Probably not fo everyone but I've seen way too many bearings of all types on vehicles with little to no grease.

Also if yours has started chirping don't dismiss hiadun's fix in Post 390 above as the fix is inline with the problem a LUK engineer described to me.