time chain cover stud doesn't hold threads (socket stripped)

You are entitled to have an opinion, but that isn't the issue. Note he said the stud spins around and around and never tightens... What do you really think?

 

Given the fact he torqued them to ~17ftlb, assuming he used a torque wrench, I find it highly unlikely he pulled the threads from the block.

 

OK, your opinion is that the hole isn't stripped.

Now you give me a scenario where the stud will continue to spin in a threaded hole and not tighten...

 

If the cover is on, the stud will sit in the cover, riding on the first threads of the block there would be enough fipg to add resistance to make it feel like it's grabbing. Being that there is air trapped behind the fipg in the block it won't let the stud continue to tighten. One way to check would be to see if the stud is exposed the same amount as the other and go from there. hopefully this is the case and not pulled threads.

 

Use a pick and see if you feel any silicone obstructions. Also see if you can take a picture of the inside of the hole.

 

OK. I've been turning wrenches for 45 years or better and I'm not buying that scenario.

Granted I am assuming that the OP knows how to thread a stud into a threaded hole. It seems to me even a monkey could tell if the stud was screwed in place before threading the nut onto it.

 

Ok, we'll agree to disagree. We have limited details, and we're not there so...

 

I agree. Maybe foampile will update the thread.

 

what is unclear ? the stud goes in and won't tighten. end of the story.

 

So the stud goes in the same amount of depth as the opposite side's stud? Then spins?

Or

Does it never make it into the same depth?

 

The former -- goes in the same amount of depth as the opposite side's stud, then spins.

Thanks

 

The fact that the timing cover has fasteners above and below it, it more than likely won't leak. You could also put some JB weld or titanium epoxy in the hole. Let the stud sit in there until it cures, then put the nut on.

Last resort would be to pull the cover again and help-coil it. It is all up to you.

Just remember, those timing cover bolts are only 14 ft-lbs, or something close. That means the stud is that or less. I don't remember off hand. Likely less. However you stripped it it doesn't matter now. Just how you're going to fix it.

 

Funny thing, I was just about to reply asking if there is some kind of 2-part epoxy I can inject inside that would cement the stud in the hole. You beat me to the punch...

However, what concerns me is that residue epoxy can glue the cover to the engine block. Is that something I shouldn't have to worry about?

17 ft/lbs

 

I understood that ( read my posts above ) adonfan was having an issue understanding that the hole for the stud is stripped.

 

Hard to believe you are suggesting JB Weld or Titanium Putty as a first resort to fix a stripped stud hole. In the real world those would be emergency repairs or last resort options.

 

Yes it certainly could. I would consider JB Weld or Titanium Putty ONLY as a last resort. And I would still remove the cover to prevent welding it in place as you described...

But it is your truck. If you don't want to repair it correctly it is your business.

 

Just giving the man options considering all things involved.

Had the back of the engine block with stripped transmission mounting holes. Used the two part puddy to make it where the bolts would tighten it down. Tore a little piece off, mushed it together, added it onto the threads of the bolt, and threaded it in. Used an additional piece as a timer, as it hardened quickly. Problem solved. Worked great and much easier than heli-coiling every hole in the block. (Mind you that this was a used 1GR purchased and rebuilt with forged internals for the owner. Holes were stripped somewhere in that process, before his receipt.) point is, you have to look at the level of importance that specific bolt has. Compared to the system as a whole. I say try the puddy style first. If it doesn't work, it is only about $7 lost and a little time. If it does, so be it. Move along.

If it doesn't, and he wants to remove the timing cover again, remove all of the silicone again, attempt to heli-coil (drilling & tapping the block), re-applying all of the silicone, minding the oil pump o-ring while re-installing the timing cover, and spending much much more time, then so be it. If it has to be done, it has to be done.

But there is no harm in the puddy epoxy method, since the hole is already messed up.

 

Please for the sake of doing things right, remove cover and install a heli-coil. they are really easy and you will be happier in the Long run!

 

it's okay to cut corners on little things that may not be consequential. i am tired not having time to live my life because i am doing things right. if it leaks, i will go at it again.

 

JB weld didn't work, I am just leaving it as is and will fix it if it does leak.

with regard to "do things right" internet nazis... there are varying degrees of consequence (shades of gray) to cutting corners and i have been rewarded in life making right decisions when it's safe to cut a corner. if you don't cut corners in life, good luck to you -- you will work 18 hr days and get next to nothing done. a smart person is he who knows where it's OK to cut a corner.