Timing Belt w/o Removing Crank Pulley

Going off op's pic


GL timing it w/o the lower timing belt cover.

edit: damn my eyes...it is there.

 

Well, the OP said he was interested what everyone had to say, not the right way to do it.

He can get THAT from the service manual.

 

Why do all this and NOT do the belt while you're in there?

 

I used a $15 chain wrench to get the crank pulley off. Was way easier than I expected. You can fix it on the area between the front two belt grooves, it's only like 1/4" thick though.

 

It's not impossible. It just takes 2 - 3/8 drive extensions, a u-joint, and some electrical tape. Go from underneath the truck... and you kind of have to "use the Force Luke" to find the bolt.

I did mine without removing the psp.

 

When IU did my timing belt, I spent about an hour trying to fiddle around with not taking my rad completely out. I've read it's "possible" to do it without removing it, so I tried, and failed.

I wasted so much time.

Ended up taking 5 more minutes and just removed the rad and everything went so much faster.

The lesson here is just take it apart like all the instructions tell you to. There's a reason it's done like that...

 

To replace the crank seal? That is what Tim did, that is what I am going to do (along with the cam seals).

 

Well is it done yet? Probably, but hey that won't stop me...

I say you can. The main obstacle is the tensioner. There is a little special tool to compress it without removing it.

I've used the starter motor to break the balancer bolt many times in the past. The problem then becomes how to tighten it again. The 5VZE wants over 200 ft-lbs of tightness. Can't do that with the starter. How do you do that?

I took the wimpy road and just bought the tool. My 1/2 drive torque qrench is only good to 150ft-lbs so I did that and then just used some pipe extensions for a little more.

Why does that bolt need over 200 ft-lbs of torque anyway? It seems a bit excessive. None of the other vehicles I've owned were over 150 and most were closer to 100.

 

It doesn't. A dot of blue loc-tite and an impact is good enough to not back out.

 

Trying to pull my pulley right now outside of the engine compartment is the damn thing reverse thread I'm having a helluva time with it

 

No, normal thread. Lefty Loosey.

 

Just making sure we are getting my buddies impact mine won't pop it it's a real bitch cause my engine stand keeps moving around

 

It should have been installed with around 200 ft-lbs of torque, so it should be somewhat difficult to remove. Are you holding it with a crank pulley holder tool?

 

That sucker is on tight. Neither of my 1/2" impacts (air & electric) would budge it, all they would do is slowly rotate the crank. Wasn't about to go buy a new impact for the job or the $100 tool to hold the pulley (which I would had to order online). Instead I spent $10 at Lowes and made my own.

I took out my stock air box, layed my tool against the frame with a piece of wood for cushion. Then used a long 1/2 breaker bar with a pipe extension on it. When it broke free I though my breaker bar finally broke but nope. That Matco breaker bar has never failed me yet.

Used the same home made tool to retorque the bolt. Again layed it against the frame, this time with the battery out. But I had to torque it from underneath the truck with my foot on the frame. When I tried to torque it from up top, my feet would just slip on my garage floor.

Here's my home made tool. Lots of other examples in the thread too.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/page-4#post-18172275