Tire Chains

What about a set of wheel spacers, do you think a set of these would put the front wheel out far enough to use a set of chains or cables on the front? Maybe wheel spacers plus some wheels that have less back spacing? Maybe also using a 235/85-R16 tire? There are some options out there for those that really want to run chains on the front wheels.

http://www.spidertrax.com/Toyota-Hub-Centric-Spacer

 

http://www.americantracktruck.com/

 

http://www.rubicon-trail.com/jeep101/chains.html
And
http://www.rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/4WD-AWD-autoAWD.html

 

I use Rud Grip 4x4 chains on my rear axle. They are simple to put on, very durable, and the diamond pattern provides lateral traction. I don't need additional tensioners on my work truck because it doesn't have aggressive tires, but on my Tacoma with ST Maxx tires I need them. The shoulder lugs prevent them from getting perfectly tight and the larger diameter (235/85-16) cause them to hit the mud flaps.

 

I drive a semi for a living and, unfortunately I've had to chain quite a few times. The whole secret to chaining and having them stay on is making sure they are tight. You put them on there and center them over the tire. Always sinch down the BACK side first then the front. After you drive on them for a mile or so pull over and make sure they are tight. Cinch them down again if necessary. Don't ever drive faster than 20 or 25 mph max with chains. That's how you break them and damage your vehicle. NEVER go faster than 25 mph. Rubber bungies to help secure the front side in a criss-cross pattern help quite a bit as well. This of course depends on the design of chains. Since I've never chained an automobile I don't know if they are designed exactly alike when it comes to chains. I have used cables on an automobile though. They are much easier to deal with but not near as durable.

My personal opinion? Just use the proper tire for the season and forget chains unless you absolutely need them. Also, get high quality chains. Don't buy the cheap chinese junk the average trucking company buys. If you end up in a situation where you're driving on pavement, then ice and snow, then pavement, then ice and snow for 100 miles cheap assed chains will stretch and break eventually. Even if they are tight but being tight makes a huge difference. It costs about $100 bucks for a set of cheap, singles for a semi. From what I've heard it's $300 for a set that's very well made. I'm sure for pickups the price difference is about the same when it comes to quality.

I carry cables in my Taco and have no intention of ever using them. I might get a set of high quality chains some day just for that one extreme experience I get myself into but will have no intention of ever using them. I personally have no desire to go where the right tire can't take me.

 

My cables were bought for a Suburu Forester, so I just kept them visible for the sheriff checkpoints. Need a set for the 017 Tacoma TRD Sport. Went to Frazier Park Friday morning, no issues on the roads with 10% grade, even with ice & snow. Off the road, on the trails, I had limitations without cables. Tested the 4wd on Valley Trail off Pine Canyon Road. Made it to the top of Pine Canyon in a foot of snow. Turned around at the dead end, came down, went right at the fork down Valley Trail & couldn’t get back up it. Not enough traction in the deep snow, patchy ice & mud. Have Toyo30 265-65-R17 tires good for light snow. Loaded the bed up with some snow to help with traction & made it out on Main Trail. Snow off Lockwood Valley Road, 8N12, was deep & rutted enough to keep me on the road. Walked it. No shovel, so to say the least I wasn’t prepared in my mind to take an attempt or make it.

 

As I understand it ... 2nd gen cannot accept even "S" clearance cables on the front. No clearance is there. I assume 3rd gen is the same.
What engineer/manager thought that was smart???

 

When I got my Taco, I signed some paperwork that said:

"As equipped, this vehicle may not be operated with tire chains but may accommodate some other type of tire traction device. See the owner's manual for details."

It looked like some generic paperwork that had no reference to the Tacoma. I had no idea whether that was for financing, for warranty, or what -- and the guy selling me the truck told me I should "use whatever the manufacturer recommends". I wouldn't want to void my warranty on a brand new truck, so I would rather err on the side of caution. What snow traction device does Toyota approve of?

Well, I found the information in the manual, and it basically says what other threads here have confirmed: Use full on tire chains (i.e. not cables but chains with links) for the rear tires. The side chain must have a diameter of 0.2" and the cross chain a diameter of 0.25".

So I'm looking for something that is compatible with my warranty and such -- but it looks like that is "real tire chains" according to the owner's manual. I presume it is prudent that the owner's manual would supersede a vague, generic note that defers to the owner's manual. So any idea where I can find such chains?

Where I live in California, there are some places where you have to carry chains because they may become necessary anytime (even if you have 4x4 / AWD), although it is unlikely that you'll actually use them. I've used cable chains a number of times on my good old 2WD sedan and the difference they make is mind-blowing.

 

Real winter tires are a game changer, but I still carry the RUD Grip 4x4 chains for the rear. There are some very low clearance cable chains that could be installed on the front, but you would need to be exceptionally good at tensioning them.