To buy or not to buy wheel spacers and why

Did you have to trim your studs to fit 1” spacers?

 

No, the spacers use the existing studs to mount, and have other studs you bolt the wheels to. Don't forget your loctite, and to re-torque them all every so often. I had my Spidertrax on at 400 miles, currently at 20k. No issues and no dealership hassles.

 

You shouldn't have to trim with 1". I have .75" spacers, and didn't need to trim, because my rims have recesses between the bolt holes. But with 1" it should work, even if you don't have the recesses, like its flush the whole way around.

I can post a pic of what I'm talking about if that doesn't make sense.

 

That makes perfect sense, thank you for taking the time to explain.

 

Hello,
I'm not sure if I want to leave my truck as is, add a hub centric slip-on spacer (not the Auto Parts types) or a Spidertrax or Bora wheel adapter. It is strictly for looks. My '08 Prerunner had Maxtrac spindles up front so I ran 1.25" Spidertrax on the rears to match the fronts track width & I really liked that look. My 2015 DCSB TRD O/R 4x4 has 2016 4Runner Trail wheels. The Tacoma O/R wheels have a 30mm offset & the 4Runner Trail wheels have a 15mm so the Trail wheels "stick out" almost .6's. If I add a Spidertrax 1.25" adapter/spacer the wheels will stick out almost 1 3/4" over the factory set-up. I was thinking of adding a .75" sandwich style or slip-on spacer from Bora

https://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/s_yearmakemodel.html

These are hub centric to the hub & to the wheel so it's like a Bora or Spidertax wheel adapter minus the built in studs. Of course, if I go this route I would need to go with ARP extended length studs or Toyota Matrix studs. Either of these should be long enough to accommodate the slip-on spacer and have enough stud for the lug nut to safely grab on to.

The pros of the slip-on style spacer is that there are only 6 studs/nuts vs 12 studs/nuts per wheel but I don't know if the lug nuts can loosen over time with the slip-on style spacers since the studs are longer and the spacer is only sandwiched in between the wheel & hub. Anyone here running these type of slip-on spacers?

Thank you

Pics of my truck:

 

I've read on several posts about re-torqueing after having them on, are we talking the usual wheel nuts or the spacer nuts? I ask because the spacers come with thread lock so would you not be breaking the lock to re-torque?

 

if they're threadlocked on, you shouldn't break the threadlock by checking the torque, assuming it hasn't loosened/broken by itself already.

I don't have mine threadlocked, but every oil change I do a tire rotation, so I check the torque on the spacer nuts while the wheel is off, then when I put the wheels back on, I torque the wheel nuts.

 

good looking truck man

 

Thank you!

 

A few things to point out:
Wheel "spacers" are merely a flat metal piece that fits over your wheel studs and then your wheel bolts into the same stud. So your pushing the wheel out and leaving less wheel stud for the lug nut. These are garbage and should not be used.

What most people are using are "adapters". They should be hubcentric and secure to your factory studs. They should have studs pressed in that your wheel will bolt to. Unless your getting a wheel with a different bolt pattern, the adapter would be the same as your factory pattern. In my case, I have 1.25' thick adapters are 6x139.7 to 6x139.7.

Discount tire? I buy tires exclusively from Discount and they even check the nuts on my adapters to be sure they are properly torqued before mounting the wheel. Always a good experience and no issues or any "extra charges" or loss of warranty.

Last I take my truck off road. I don't hammer on it, I just use common sense and have no issues with using adapters. I've had them on a Tundra, a Camaro and my Tacoma.

 

Did you have to grind the studs at all or did the OR rims clear? Don’t quite want 1.25 so looking at 1” Bora if no grinding is required.