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Torque Wrench

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by grubburg, Feb 28, 2015.

  1. Feb 28, 2015 at 8:07 PM
    #1
    grubburg

    grubburg [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking to buy a torque wrench. what strength is necessary for general tacoma work? 150 pounds?
     
  2. Feb 28, 2015 at 8:09 PM
    #2
    Unchained 5150

    Unchained 5150 Well-Known Member

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  3. Feb 28, 2015 at 8:10 PM
    #3
    armyoffoo

    armyoffoo Scrotie McBoogerballs

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    Front axle nuts are 173ft lbs, Crank shaft pulley bolt is 204ft lbs (with supercharger). Those are just a couple that I can think of that require higher than 150.
     
  4. Feb 28, 2015 at 8:19 PM
    #4
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    I have a couple. One starts at 5# and goes to 74, and the other starts at 20# and goes to 120. For the larger bolts, I just borrow, or rent it.
     
  5. Feb 28, 2015 at 10:40 PM
    #5
    michael roberts

    michael roberts Well-Known Member

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    Years ago i read you should store the torque wrench set a 0 lbs. The reason why reason wasn't mentioned, but i've always did this.
     
  6. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:34 AM
    #6
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    There is also an 'inch-pound' torque wrench, thats handy for oil-pan and valve-cover bolts. I have both.
     
  7. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:42 AM
    #7
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    I have a couple... 1/2" and 3/8"

    Both have settings for foot lbs & inch/lbs from ZERO up to ?? (without going out and looking - LOL). They're both Craftsman and we've had them probably for 15 years.
     
  8. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:43 AM
    #8
    Eric F

    Eric F Well-Known Member

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    To keep unnecessary pressure off of the torque mechanism. Keeps the wrench accurate
     
  9. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:52 AM
    #9
    Frogging

    Frogging Well-Known Member

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    the wheels are only 90 lbs or so. unless you are taking major items off you shouldnt need much more. i have a 1/2 inch from harbor freight that goes 20-150 lbs. small stuff i use a 1/4 inch. torque wrench but that is measured by inch pounds.

    certainly worth having and using.

    you set a torque wrench to 0 to minimized the fatigued to the spring mechanism inside. the spring mechanism determines the right torque each time used once it is set to which ever setting
     
  10. Mar 1, 2015 at 7:57 AM
    #10
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

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  11. Mar 1, 2015 at 8:09 AM
    #11
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    Idk if u have a 1st gen or not, but if u ever plan on doing a timing belt, the crank pulley bolt requires 217ft/lbs. just something to think about.
     
  12. Mar 1, 2015 at 1:18 PM
    #12
    Hugh Morron

    Hugh Morron Manic Mechanic

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    Lowes sells a good Kobalt torque wrench. 25 to 250 ft/lbs for around $80.00. They are a clicker type that you set the desired torque and when it is reached it clicks.
     
  13. Mar 1, 2015 at 1:21 PM
    #13
    a.smo

    a.smo Well-Known Member

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  14. Mar 1, 2015 at 1:31 PM
    #14
    Black Taco

    Black Taco Well-Known Member

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  15. Mar 12, 2015 at 3:48 AM
    #15
    orangeglo

    orangeglo ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    This only applies to micrometer torque wrenches. Split beam torque wrenches can be stored at any setting.
     
  16. Mar 17, 2015 at 12:42 AM
    #16
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO Well-Known Member

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    Go to ebay and search "CDI Torque Wrench". I have the 10-100 lb/ft model there are many to choose. They are made in USA and are affiliated with Snap On. Mine is VERY nice and they won't break the bank. There will be a chart you can reference to pick the model that best suits your needs.
     
  17. Mar 17, 2015 at 2:54 PM
    #17
    CASTRATE

    CASTRATE Well-Known Member

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    Totally different torque range, but I purchased the smallest torque wrench for in/oz available at HF, & who'd uh thunk it, it was junk. Set it at 25 in/oz for scope ring caps. Ended up snapping the head off a grade 8 8-32 cap screw. Lesson learned
     
  18. Mar 17, 2015 at 10:42 PM
    #18
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO Well-Known Member

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    I chose the 10-100 model but there's a 20-150 model (1503MFRMH). But it's a 1/2 inch drive. The 10-100 is 3/8. There may be a time when there will be clearance issues with a 1/2" drive but if you need to go to 150 that's the one. You can get a smaller 5-75 for a little more than $100. They have in/lb ones too. I'm telling ya these are very nice. I've been through three other wrenches (craftsman), and they just don't make them like they used to. Buy once cry once.
     
  19. Mar 18, 2015 at 4:44 AM
    #19
    Teleholic

    Teleholic Well-Known Member

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    Got a 3/8th drive 10-80 foot pound torque wrench from Tekton, and was impressed at what I could get for about 40 bucks. Just received a 1/2 drive 10-150 ft. lb from Tekton as well. It has to go back cause the internal mechanism's are pretty bad when changing setting's, it's very rough and make's all sorts of horrible noises that my 3/8th doesn't do. Can't trust it.

    I've heard if you go with a click type, its wise to have many separate torque wrench's with different range's for the sake of accuracy; even if they overlap each other in range. For example, a 10-150 ft.lb wrench has more range than a 10-80 ft.lb. However if you are tightening to lets say 80 ft.lb, your 10-80 ft.lb would be more accurate at that setting than your 10-150 ft. lb's, because it's on the farther end of it's range. Click-type torque wrench's are more accurate at higher settings.
     
  20. Mar 18, 2015 at 4:58 AM
    #20
    BadBrains

    BadBrains Spreading the Aloha

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    Yep, always zero out your torque wrench before storing.
    Of course try not to drop it, baby it.
    Hold by the middle of the handle so it does not affect leverage.
    Crows feet and other attachments not inline with the drive change the leverage, to be truly accurate, it needs to be accounted for.
    Greases, anti-seize, etc can give false torque readings.
    Teleholic is correct, you should try not to use the limits of your wrench.
    In aviation, wrenches are re-calibrated annually.
    NEVER back nuts off with your torque wrench, only tighten.
    Always torque the nut, not the bolt head.
    Granny bars/Cheater bars change leverage, the correct way is to use a multiplier.

    Can't think of any more.
     

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