Torqued over torque settings.

So, I'm about to do the water pump/timing chain replacement on my 1999 3.4L Tacoma and I've come upon a big hurdle. In my Haynes manual, it says that the Crank pulley bolt takes 184 foot pounds of torque, but on the instruction sheet that came with the timing belt, it says that, starting at 1999, the torque should be set at 217 foot pounds. Anyone know which one is the right one? I'd read that, if that bolt isn't correctly torqued, the key that locates the crank angle wheel located behind the harmonic balancer pulley can get chewed up and produce incorrect readings to the crank angle sensor, so, getting it right kinda seems to matter. Anyone know which is right? Thanks as always, guys. You've saved me a ton of time and money in the past and it's really appreciated. Another question I have in relation to torque figures is, when I've watched youtube vids on this job, it seems everybody has to deal with a snapped nut or bolt somewhere in the proceedings. Since I don't want to take the torch to every single nut and bolt prior to trying to remove them, is it possible to use the torque setting in reverse to figure out if a bolt or nut is well and truly stuck? For instance, if a fan support bracket nut lists 22 inch pounds of torque when tightening, if I've hit it with, say, 30 inch pounds to try and remove it and it isn't budging, is that when it's time to break out the torch? How many inch pounds or foot pounds beyond the given torque setting for a bolt throws the red flag? And finally has anyone had any luck using the freezing penetrant sprays like Freeze-Off? I have a hunch my engine is going to be a challenge so, thanks again all!

 

I use 3 uga doogas. You'll be fine.

 

I've had good luck with Pb blaster, deep creep, let soak for hour or two...
If I dont have satisfaction after soak, I use a little mini torch I got from harbor frieght.....never failed yet....
Some of those would of broke without the heat....

Cant tell correct torque on that bolt......however be super careful when u seat that HB back on the KEY....things can go very wrong here.....
New parts have tenancy to stick instead of slide..

 

No Torque wrenches only work in one Direction as far as I know.

One helper used a torque wrench as a breaker bar in reverse and broke it that is What I am going by.

 

Unless you're in the rust belt I think you're worrying too much about stuck bolts. Just go in and take it easy. use a hammer to tap your wrenches as needed and if something's binding up spray some penetrating oil in, work the bolt back in, spray some more penetrating oil, working back out and repeat as necessary until you can get it all the way out.

My truck is an 02 and proper torque for the crank is 217 lb. I can't tell you for sure on the 1999.

 

Some actually work in both directions. You would know if yours does as it's a selling point.

 

The freeze off is for heavy rusted bolts, ones seized together......
freeze it and instantly break it....think that is a napa product.....thats where I bought anyways......

And dont use a torque wrench to break anything, over torquing it will destroy its accuracy...

 

Since I didn't have the uga doogas to ft/Lb conversion table handy, I did a little exploring and found that the 3.4L V6 engine is idntified as the 5VZ engine and that requires the 217 ft/Lb torque setting. Since I also read somewhere that that poundage isn't going to stress that bolt or that crank it goes into at all, I'm going to be happy with the higher number even if it's "Wrong" since it doesn't look like it would hurt anything. Bad stuff only seems to happen at torque settings that are too low and the crank pulley/ harmonic balancer gets loose. As for the rest of my questions, I won't be using the torque wrench for determining if a bolt requires heat or cold prior to removing it. The heat won't hurt it in any case so, following some Blaster, if a bolt is still not coming off with a reasonable amount of yanking, I'll just hit it with the torch. If it snaps off in the block, I'll do my usual mig welded nut over the broken stub only this time, I might put Break free freezing spray on to start with. As always guys, your help is always appreciated. I'm guessing that I could probably fumble my way through but it sure goes easier when I've got the advice from everyone here to let me know the actual right way of doing things. Sure is faster as well!

 

Your way over thinking it....I blast and then torch.....until boils out....
they always give......always

In RC world we use red locktite on everything.....
only safeway to break alloy fasteners.....is tip of solder iron (75w) and count to 10....
works everytime...

 

The torque for the crank bolt is 217 ft. lbs. It also says it's a non-reusable part.

 

My Toyota FSM says 217 ft/lbs & that's what I did (and I did reuse it, next time I'll replace it. )

IIRC, 184 is for the older style bolt that has a separate washer. 217 is for the newer bolt with captive washer.

 

Unless you're replacing the crank pulley/harmonic balancer I wouldn't put heat on that bolt. You'll likely damage the rubber.

 

I double checked, 1 UggaDugg is 70-75#ft.

 

Rule of thumb is you are supposed to follow any ugga duggas with 2-3 dats (eg dat dat dat). Especially in front of anyone watching.... for professionalism & dramatic effect.

Oh and dats are not to be confused with ratta tats. Ratta tats are the metric equivalent for ugga duggas.

 

so, your saying dats are dots and ugga duggas are dashes... or is it the other way around? I'm so confused.

 

Nope, ugga duggas, ratta tats, dats, etc only applies to impact tools. Your chart is for something else, that's electrical, for what I have no idea. All I know is if a hammer doesn't fix it, the problem is electrical, and it won't get fixed by me. I think there's a different chart for fire too.

 

This really is just for giggles and good on you for wanting it right. It's just one of those that requires about as tight as you can get it without drastic measures like jumping on it or hammering.
Could prob. take a little of that though.
It's a very forgiving bolt.

 

BTW...Honda requires a high mass socket that helps taking it off.
They're cheap at O'Reilly's

 

When I worked at a shop on Hondas, sockets like these didn't exist yet. My 1/2" IR took off most of the Honda crank bolts I worked on. For the stubborn ones we used a 3/4" impact.



https://youtu.be/qVd8Bx6AAQc

https://youtu.be/8sHtlSbUmB0