TORSPD: NEVR

The midichlorean count is high with this one. There is only do.

All good mate. We all start at the same place. Only at different times. The worst questions are the ones never asked. So ask away.

 

Ok another question, instead of upgrading the in tank fuel pump, would this be any better?
Fuel Surg tank

 

Not if those prices are accurate!!!!! That's more than a new pump. And its easy to do yourself.

 

Surge tanks are an awesome upgrade. Especially when you run into lean conditions due to the G forces of cornering, or general Hooning around. They prevent lean out of the pump. Stock pump feed it from the gas tank, and it feeds the fuel rail. There are also a lot of other benefits, but I'm not getting into those unless you want to.

If you don't want to drop the tank, and want a higher flowing pump than stock, then you could add a surge tank with its own pump/s. You'll still have to reroute the fuel lines to it, and have to wire it in.

Ask yourself this. Do you have a regular scenarios where you are having high fuel demands, at off camber events?

Or is it just easier to do to that versus an in tank pump swap?

Either way, for me, the stock fuel pump would still be a restrictive element in that system, and would need to be removed to be replaced with an external filter. Which in turn would mean that you have to go in there, so might as well just swap out the pump top, while in there.

Plain and simple, the surge tank is a supplement, which only becomes a necessity in racing apps. Unless one just really wants it.

An upgraded pump and replaceable fuel filter......those a necessities. Especially considering the price.

BTW, OEM Hilux's have a replaceable fuel filter. Part Number is even in this build thread.

 

Thank you Tor, naa just saw cool new product used on race Subarus. I love my AWD boxers.....

 

Mark did you find out how they locked up the centre part of the vvti? Did they end up just putting packers in the oil chambers. You might be about to try few different combinations of packers either side of each lobe to find the best cam phasing. Just like adjustable cam gears only a pain in the ass to change the setting.

 

We locked it down. Found the proper angles for the intake and exhaust, and prevented it from moving. Much easier to deal with that, then risk the potential to have valve to piston slap.

 

Been sick pretty bad the last two days. So I've been taking my time with everything. Getting all sorts of nitpick stuff completed, whivh will help with the engine install and improve things from their current status. Any way, basically, I have the radiator removed and block drained. Whereas before, I could do the swap without removing the radiator. This sucker is just massive and too close to the engine.





Forgot about this mod. When I was running the RC Engineering injectors, their fat asses wouldn't fit properly, and I had to remove that material for them to fit. This is on the built engine.




Radiator mostly drained. If look just above the two gold plugs, in the back of the picture, you'll notice two black caps directly above them. Those are there to cap off the lines going to the oil cooler. As I don't want to break in the engine with it attached. Ruling out the possibility of particals getting in there.





And then, the radiator removed.





A lot of other things not shown, but basically now I just need to pull the exhaust and transmission.

 

Oh yeah. Also saw this at Coffee and Cars on Saturday.

 

green tea mf'er........

 

Good God. its so ridiculous!! I love it.

Love the Greddy oil cap too lol

The fact that you and i both run K&N oil filters has now instantly made me feel as if my truck has more power already. LOL

 

That's just neat.

 

By the gallons, it has been..... I need to get a pu-erh. Don't forget! Rally-Cross this Sunday!!!!!

I feel the same every time I add another part that some racecar has.

Was also at a friend's shop not to long ago. Polar Expedition Taco. Has a modified rear suspension, 4 bucket seats, oh yeah, and MASSIVE Mickey Thompson tires. Can probably float with those.

 

^^i've seen pictures of that beast! it's insane!^^

 

This little project took some time yesterday. These two ports, which normally feed coolant to the throttle body, are what I use for coolant to my turbo.

Well the OEM ports were just too narrow for the -6 AN push lock hose. The plan, was to pull them out and replace them with 1/4" NPT - 6AN fittings. Here you can see where they are pulled out.




Drilled them out with the next size up from a 7/16" bit. Then tapped them with the 1/4" NPT bit.





The finished piece.





What took so long, was trying to remove the powder coated over spray. Which I had never done earlier.

 

This is where it is right now.

 

x2!

 

More updates. Dropped off the second wheel to S.A.B.S to have the tiny ding repaired. The truck is ready to drop the transmission, and pull the engine tonight.

I also took this coolant passage to Kozmic Motorsports, to have them weld in a bung, so that I can have the ProEFI's coolant sensor, in nearly the same exact spot as the OEM sensor.

Originally when it was tuned, the ProEFI used the OEM sensor for it's coolant readings. Well when I more recently had the throttle body mapped out, by D3, so that the ProEFI could control the TB, the wires which were used for the OEM sensor, where needed for the TB and the gas pedal. Sooo, with that development a new sensor was needed, but I never settled on where to put it until yesterday afternoon. Here is where it is going.



It will be in the bottom center of that coolant passage.

Here it is over the bell housing.







Accessories and exhaust all removed.





Engine almost ready to go.

 

lol ........................ "tiny ding"