TORSPD: NEVR

You aren't lying man!!!

More importantly, my brain became a sponge when I was talking with Gates.

It would be bad ass to get a ride-along with him during one of his track runs.

 

I was laughing when he blew past the two guys on that straight. Lol.

Definitely a Wtf moment for them.

 

This build reads like my favorite novel...
Keep it up buddy!

 

those are some beautiful curves I must admit...and over a bar?! on a 1GR? nice! so much better than before and crazy smooth for a turbo. very, very impressed sir!

i have to say that is an ingenious front mount solution...doesn't look like you have to worry about heatsoaking much since there is very little charge piping and its far away from anything really hot...nice job man! so jelly. I finally got around to figuring out where all your plumbing went rofl

 

Newly refinished wheels are gonna look sick.

 

My original plan was to get them powder coated matte black, then have the spokes painted a bronze or gold. Not quite sure which? However, even the matte black alone looks really good. I must say. Thank you sir

Yes sir. 1 BAR on a head that was fixed with some JB weld.......lol. And by no means should you think that I am the only one to do such a thing. There is a story of Miata race team that participated in the 24 Hour Lemons race. Did something very similar to what I did. Held very nicely as well. I will have to try to find the story.

It gets fairly hot, but nothing unreasonable. Plus, some ceramic coating coupled with DEI exhaust wrap helps considerably.

 

The novel continues once I get home.........

 

Awesome job TORSPD. I've been thinking of going this route since I bought my truck. Yours makes me really want to get to work on it. Thanks for sharing.

 

Thank you sir. You are welcome as well. I hope that I have added enough links for you to be able to check out what you like. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

I need to get back to it and post up more pics.

 

Finally got my grill all finished up. Had some help with it from a friend, and I think it turned out great.

Had my girlfriend take a pic of it, but before I put it on the truck. One of my next mods needs to be a new camera. lol

 

Not being satisfied with the factory temp thermostat, and not having any aftermarket cooler thermostats available, unless purchased with an X-1 or UCON (now).

I took matters into my own hands.
First was to try a new thermostat.



Ended up doing a couple experiments prior to finding this one that works.

Here is the write-up that I did: http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?p=778891#post778891

For those that are picture happy.....











Using some pliers, squeeze the hose clamp together and pull the radiator hose off of the housing.

Then to remove the OEM t-stat, your have to twist the spring loaded flange out from between the holders. Be very careful not to pinch your fingers as it is under A LOT of tension.

Then you end up with this.



Note, the aftermarket T-stat is a 54 MM diameter T-stat. That is the diameter which you must get. However I am going to find another style which is more similar in length to the OEM length. I will post that up later once I have it. This one does work though.

Here is the a close up of the hole, I marked it for ease of verification during install.



Next is to take a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel and remove the two holders from the housing.



After that, I installed a squar edged grinding tip into the Dremel, and added this adapter so that I would have a consistent depth cut while I "machined" out the necessary material.



****Take note, the plastice will melt, and will adhere to the bit. Frequent cleaning of the excess is necessary to maintain a clean cut. *****

What I ended up with is this.



I cut it out to a depth that keeps the T-stat gasket as close to the OEM gasket as I could. In the next pick you will see that I could have gone a hair deeper. With that cut, the OEM gasket still has some of the wall of the housing on its inner side. This helps to keep its form.

The gasket and new T-stat effectively rest on the inner wall of the OEM gasket.





Underneath the T-stat gasket I added a fine bead of Toyota FPIG silicone. You could use that or "The Right Stuff". Your choice. It helps with any imperfections from the "machining".

Re-install. Let sit for about 30 minutes, depending on the silicone used, before adding fluid back to the system.

Here is a pick of the T-stat which I am currently running as of 18 Sept. '11.



Here is the T-Stat which I am now using. 160* High Flow T-stat.




Here you can see its size compared to the original 170*.



This designed one is more similar to the OEM one with the flow check valve that the OEM one has as well.






These pics are to better illustrate the Dremeling that I that I had done.





And here is with the OEM gasket back in place.




Now take note, I could not use the gasket that came with Mr. Gasket T-stat. I had to use the gasket from the other brand. So I will post up that part number as soon as I find it.








However, I found a different way to "machine" the plastic housing, which I feel is actually better.........

 

I refined the way I did the modification to the housing due to the fact that I didn't find a gasket similar to mine. This way keeps the the gasket that comes with the thermostat, and uses it with the OEM gasket.

So to start with the pictures from step one: Remove the stock t-stat.



Cut off the stands that hold the oem t-stat. Then remove the OEM gasket, and keep it.

Then using the router adapter, machine down the inner part of the housing, down to the plane where the OEM gasket rests onto. As seen in the next picture.



As you can see, at the top portion of the picture, where the stand that is on the top housing, you have to machine that area out completely to allow the over-flow portion of the T-stat to fit.

Here is another angle to help. Also, you can tell that the plastic was a bit melted. Make sure to clean up the housing well to remove any of the melted plastic that might be loosely stuck.



Then this is what it will look like once it is installed.



To make things easier, lightly remove a little from where the outside of the OEM gasket touches the housing. Just a little is needed, to help fit the everything in nicely.

Also note, that you must cut the little tabs off of the O.D. of the gasket that comes with the Mr. Gasket T-stat.




Being that I run a fairly high amount of boost, my feelings were that this was a necessary upgrade.

Also, there is a pic of the T-stat cut in the write-up in the link. IF done, it WILL CAUSE A CEL, unless you have a way to control the ecu's normal operating temp. The CEL, WITH the cut end of the T-stat, is a P0128. System not up to proper operating temp.

For those that might have the strong need to stay extra cool, it will keep the temps around 152*. The necessary operating temp for the factory ECU is 168*. Not modifying the end of the Mr.Gasket t-stat will make it run cooler than stock.

 

The date for the T-stat write-up was in September of 2011. Just a few months prior to that, I had something else which was in the works with APR, or www.aprpower.com.

One thing that I had always seen on cars that were aiming for decent power increases, to high hp increases, always upgraded the entire fuel system.

It was common sense as well as common practice.

Considering that even at this point in the game with my truck, and date in general, it really annoyed me that no one had pushed to develop an aftermarket larger diameter fuel rail.

The only things available were an upgraded fuel pump, and injectors. Even the fuel pressure regulator had to be sourced from various manufactures to get the necessary parts, but still had one.

So just before the date of 7-27-'11, I called and talked with Allan at APR. Threw a little spill to him, and we talked about the sizing/fittings/and adaptability. That way it could adapt to the OEM fuel lines, as well as be ready for high volume requirements of a high HP build. Also seeing that he has his own XRunner to do R&D on, and was in the process of building a twin charged Xrunner, it wasn't to hard to persuade him.

http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44994

 

8 months later, we had them in hand. After a loooooong wait.

The end of March '12, this is what he had, and has:

Here are the stats from APR, for their fuel rail.

APR 4.0L Toyota Fuel Rails
APR Fuel Rail kits are high-performance fuel delivery system that is designed to properly
supply the additional fuel needed for high boost/performance applications. The kit can be
ordered in various stages from rails only to a fully assembled set of rails with a high flow
adjustable regulator that will support our massive 386L in-tank fuel pump.
These kits are direct bolt-on replacements of factory fuel rails, complete kits include all
stainless steel braded hoses and AN factory style quick disconnects for quick and easy
installation. Utilizes the factory fuel dampener to prevent unwanted pulsation pressures,
there are two 1/8” female pipe taps for pressure transducers, gauges or additional fueling
devices. APR Fuel Rails are machined out of aluminum and are hard black anodized for
protection.
The 4.0L fuel rails are offered in 5 different configurations:​

1) $389 Fuel Rails Only – includes all mounting hardware and four -6AN rail end fittings

2) $569 Complete Fuel Rails less regulator – includes all parts needed to assemble and install (less regulator)



3) $689 Complete Fuel Rails – includes regulator and everything needed to assemble and install


4) $749 Assembled Fuel Rails - SS hoses are cut and assembled, includes regulator and everything needed to install

​

5) $928 Assembled Fuel Rails and 386L pump​

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 799x478 and weights 96KB.​

Obviously, I bought one. Two others in Texas have as well. Toon714, and Lucario Runner.

Here is what it looked like when I installed on Toon's truck:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/198249-2010-turbo-tacoma-6.html









Mine will be the same, except I will be running -8 AN Starlite fuel hose into and out of the rail. I am going to be getting rid of the factory steel 5/16' lines.

 

Sweet! And a twin charged taco..what I wanted..

 

The infamous Paul, WAS having his XRunner built by APR, and it is twin charged. Just dead halted in the engine upgrade build process.

 

APR did a great job with the Fuel Rail Setup. Seems to be designed with a straight forward install in mind with quick disconnects and all.

 

They really did. One thing that he asked me was, "Do you want to have a damper on it?"

I was totally for it, as it keeps oscillations of the fuel to a minimum, from the injector pulses, as well as the fuel pump. Those oscillations could be potentially bad, under the right conditions, as they could cause a possible lean condition.

APR was clever in that they designed the rail to adapt the factory damper over to it. So no additional cost is put onto the consumer to buy an additional part.

 

what ever happened to that guy? i miss his ridiculousness on the forums lol.

btw how do you like your Precision 6265? im considering a 5858 as they seem to be really good turbo's for a really good price; would you recommend one?

 

A discussion about him, would require a thread, longer than this sight allows. Lol.

Yes, I would recommend it. PowerFab is building a TT G35 with those, the ceramic BB ones. As well as just finished a Pontiac G8GT with a pair as well. They love them.

I am planning on the 6466, for my next upgrade. . The 6265 has been a beautiful turbo though. Ported shroud and all.