TORSPD: NEVR

Blown rings on boosted OEM 1GR's, or rods even, only comes from a small list of events. Bad/poor tuning, over revving with boost, to much power on stock internals, or acting foolish. As well as any combination of those factors.

There are some cases in the 2nd Gen Tacomas thread with people's later model 1GR's pinging. That air injection system doesn't help in that matter. Neither does poor quality gas, as well as low octane gas.

Is the 1GR as robust as its earlier iron block family members? No. Most all current engines follow the same formula for as strict a tolerance for internals as they can get away with, before their breaking point. Obviously depending on the engine's intended usage. But for the consumer market, it is max profit over max reliability and strength. Older generations, as well as technologies of the times, created different mindsets, and different products. In a lot of cases, stronger.

Now, that all being said, the I know every reason why I have damaged any of my engines. As well as the internals limits. I caused my ring lands to break and had knew the probability was high, when I put that turbo on, with stock ecu and stock injectors. It was a matter of "when", not "if."

For the built engines, tuning is the downfall. The problem is that a lot of people claim to be greaf tuners and end up causing more harm than help because they create the scenario where owners report back failures and not successes.

There have been very few good tunes out there for members pushing custom builds with internals or not. Like DoubllD just said, Goldylocks was jacked. I can tell that there was far to much timing in that tune, which caused those piston cracks, bent wrist pins, and pitting in the combustion chamber. Had his tuner made incremental rpm tuning changes with timing and fuel, and or had a reference point for timing based off of load ( say from the OEM ECU ) his engine would have stood a better chance of serviving. I highly suspect he made a few changes to get a base, then did some pulls, to "see what the datalog says," (because built engine) rather than the way I described. That method is the quickest way to destroy a perfectly good engine built or not, and is also the way many a tuner do things unfortunately. OEM's take steps, and expensive knowledgeable tuners take steps. And comb comb comb over. Not rush into uncharted territory with boost and timing, hoping to get good results.

In DoubllD's case, not only did his tuner play cards against his build, he himself had dealt with problems out of his control, from the machining side. Originally sabotaged by APR or their machinist. Loss of oil pressure. Required lots of new parts. Poor machining on the deck. The head gaskets would NEVER seal properly, as the could Never seal properly because the sleeves and block were differing heights. By a significant visible margin. So even if his tuner was diligent, the machining aspects were not there for a stable foundation to tune on. That is where it all starts.

Clifford's stroker engine, ran fine leaving here. With turbo and with TRD s/c reflash and TRD injectors. Made it to AZ. Get's it on the dyno there with a standalone, and I will sincerely bet that his tuner did the same thing that DoubllD's did. Went straight to pulls without doing a proper idle and cruising tune. Blew a head gasket. Regardless of what other aspects I didn't mention, I bet you all that his tuner did that. Effectively they are saying, "because screw your investment."

I also know of another ex member who claimed the highest HP off of five psi, with a turbo similar to mine, on a built engine. Pff....I call B.S. unless they jacked that timing way up. Only way. That engine failed as well. Timing and poor tuning, with a standalone.

I know of two non built engines which lasted long periods of time, with turbos, that made great power because they followed my advice. Don't get aggressive with the timing, boost, or RPMs. One was making about 430 whp, and very near 500 wtq at just over 8 psi. Those two trucks ended up being sold. They never had problems and had very good tuning. Stock engines.

The point is, if there is a problem with faith in these engines, it is because people don't follow the simple rules of power implementation for these engines. Don't necessarily want to spend the money right,the first time, or get screwed by poor tuning. Then that little bad news harbours more despise and lack of interest. There are only a few who are making good power here in the States, especially on built engines. Not enough good to go around to negate the negative. Overall due to a lack of knowledge on the limits and genaral knowledge on how to properly proceed.

 

I hope that answers your question.

 

Damn...

 

If anyone on this forum wants to know how to properly build a 1GR? We know good machinists. Lucario Runner and I. Ask. Want to know what the safe limits for a stock 1GR are. Ask us. What to know how to navigate tuning, or who we'd recommend to tune, ask us. Of course, some locations to answers might not be in a geographical location close to you. Be forewarned. Want to do it right? We can help.

 

I'm just happy having my stock non-boosted 1GR lasting a long time.

Plenty of good advice in here for that too.

 

I live vicariously through Mark.

 

I live vicariously through me as well. On that note, I feel like cooking a steak, and some Chappell Hill sausage.

 

Tor, based on my mods, will I be fine without tuning, and if not, what is available for a 2015 Tacoma these days?
TRD Supercharger
AFE CAI
URD 3" exhaust
URD Y pipe
Some sort of short tube headers DT or JBA?
FUEL PUMP from URD (you know why I'm loling)
Toyota reflash
URD 2.85 stealth pulley

Going short tube to maintain front cats and will be tossing stock y pipe back in for smog.

At what point should I start worrying about upgrading internals?

How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

 

Are there even short tubes which work with the air injection system?

AFR/boost gauges, and a good brand oil, needed to add to the list. ZDDP additive if you want to be extra protective.

I get your "lol", and need another copy of the data @Lucario Runner . Your reflash will handle that fine. Get the AFR gauge installed first so that you can monitor real time differences before and after the pulley swap. That way you'll know if you need to take any further steps.

 

Oh yea I've got an AEM wideband as well, and a speedhut 1-15 boost gauge on order, waiting for delivery.

What do you mean by the short tubes? I guess I need to do more research lol

What's a good brand oil? Like mobil1 or what? And what is that additive for?

 

@VolcomTacoma2011 sounds like a solid list

you'll be good to go after that.. no tuning necessary.

I've grown to really like my Spec-U headers. seemed to level out the powerband.

 

Let me digest that... Ill let you know tomorrow

I think most of TW does...

 

I would love to go with Spec-U headers but I have to worry about smog out here.

TBH I need to find a "smog guy" that will look the other way at no cats, you know what I mean?

 

Can you register it somewhere else? Used to register my vehicles in northern Az to avoid dealing with that in the city.

 

I don't think so? I'm cali born and raised, never really lived anywhere else lol. I'm just thinking I might either skip headers or try for long tubes if I can install myself and just put stock everything back on for smog.

 

thats because of the equal length design

 

Very well said. That is all.

 

Can someone better explain the air injection system? Is that only on the newer 2012+ with all the smog crap? Am I screwed on headers then?

 

@Lucario Runner . ^^^

Just looked up the headers on URD's site. Doug Thorley and JBA both have long and short tube headers for your year model. Me personally, I'd go for the 304ss.

 

See, you guys got me all confused lol
http://urdusa.com/store/Exhaust-&-H...eader,-2012+-Tacoma-V6-ONLY/product_info.html

I was looking st these because it said 2012+. Didn't even notice the air injection comment on it until you guys pointed it out. So I'm good to go right?

The only issue I was thinking was on a certain set of headers I know there was a comment about not fitting with Total Chaos Coil bucket gussets, I'm guessing because they bend up near the frame or something and the gussets would be in the way.