TORSPD: NEVR

Pssssssh vroom psssssh!

 

In the shifter side quest, I've finally got it exaclty where all the pieces fit together like a puzzle. Like a"OEM" puzzle.

With the added length of the custom MGW shifter arm adapter, the bottom front corner would lightly hit the aluminum sheet metal of the transmission tunnel. That was an easy fix. Grind it off at an angle...



Problem solved.

The first Hurst shifter arm was two low at the bend and would hit the leather boot in the even gears. Despite having a comfortable handle location. $75 later, I had another to test.



You can see the differences in the bends, there. This one had the correct fit for the leather boot and center console, but curved back so far in the even gears, that it sat half way over the cup holder. I had to move my arm out of the way of the center console during even gear shifts. No go.

$80 later, the next shifter arm came in. Unfortunately I took no pictures of it, so I'll just add a link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=Hurst+5388009+Shifter+Stick

That one fits "perfectly." Momma bear shifter.

You know, if the damn shifters had more thorough specs, this could have been a lot cheaper....

 

Nobody cares about your damn shifter. Give us stroker boost!

 

I love mine

 

This is the good stuff here though.

"Cost for the cranks is as follows:
OEM crank had the snout straightened and turned .011/.011 and cost $130. The aftermarket crank had to have the whole shaft straightened and turned .011/.011. and cost $245. The main bearings are $77, the rods bearings are $56 and the thrust washers are $12. Total for the cranks and bearings is $520. The thrust bearings will be provided by King."

From the machinist. Both cranks are completed!!!

We discussed the thrust washers from Clevite. As in not to use them because they didn't fit properly. Their overall circumference is larger than the OEM. When the king thrust washers arrive we will compare them to the Clevites and OEM's.

Also gave them the plan of attack on how to make the ARP main studs fit on the #4 main cap. Which is the cap closest to the flywheel. As there is a clearance issue between the height of the ARP nuts and the machined mating surfaces of the block - oil pan.

With the Wiseco pistons being completed any day now, it is only a matter of time before they have all of the parts in hand to bore/hone/assemble Goldylocks. The short block at least. Very exciting for me!

 

goldylocks hahahaha redheaded step child

 

so exciting!! Just in time for Christmas??

 

Bearing will be here next week. As well as should be the pistons. Once they have the pistons in hand, then they can bore the sleeves. To refresh, these new pistons will be 3.800" diameter. Up a whole tenth from 3.701" , OEM.

Almost a 4.2L 1GR.

DoubllD, I have good hopes for this engine. I'm going to get it in and see how well she does. Should I put the BW on for that dyno????? Hmmmmm.

 

i say go for it

 

Hey Tor,

So its a month later or so after my SC install...idly sitting at work thinking i should just go recheck all my bolts for shits n giggles....should i do a hot torque to spec after i just get home, or let everything cool first?

Im used to working in oil refining where most things get torqued to spec, then once the temps are up, you retorque a couple days later while its hot.

I made sure every bolt was torqued to toyota spec, but obviously its always good to go back and check stuff periodically...

 

Cool. Just make sure not to over torque the after cooler TRD cap bolts. Those can easily strip.

 

Gotcha. Yea i didn't have a torque wrench that went down to 12 ft/lbs so i just got them super snug and then gave them another light tug, maybe an 1/8 to 1/4 turn more just to be safe.

 

Hot damn that is a sexy ass RB setup!

 

How are you enjoying the boost, finally?

 

I. LOVE. It. The addition of some mud terrains definitely made me notice a power loss, 265/65/17 street tires to 265/70/17 mud terrains. Mainly just during 1st gear take offs, I notice I need alot more throttle to get up and go...can just barely let off clutch and no throttle now, but it really wants to stall. But, other than that, I love boost! Once I can find the time, (new baby inhibits that alot) I need to install the fuel pump(255 deutchworks) and Pulley (URD stealth) for more fun, and then one of these days I need to find a shop that will do my headers for relatively cheap. I'm still on the fence about installing the MAF cal sitting in my garage...the only recent idea I've thought of is soldering in quick disconnects for the MAF Cal wiring, that way I can take it off If I feel its messing me up to much or anything

 

Also, 4WD burnouts in dirt are just sexy

 

Installing those quick connects is the way to go.

Take your time and enjoy it for what you now have. So you're not working on it more than enjoying. After a little while, get the other parts on.

 

Yep! Just enjoying it now, letting it break in some more, one of these days I'll get around to the other mods and like it even more! Most of my truck funds are leaning towards suspension at this point, so headers are on the back burner for now.

And yes, quick connects are happening, just as soon as I look for them and get an electrician out to do all the soldering. My hands are to big to do it in there