TORSPD: NEVR

Talked with Darton yesterday. Was told that my block was on the sleeve machine.

 

I've been reading this thread in my spare time/on the shitter. It's like an automotive novel. I haven't finished yet (a little lazy) but omg wow, what a truck. You've got some brass ones sir and amazing patience. I had a bagged dodge ram that was needing work every other week. Needless to say I don't have it anymore lol. Great job Torspd! Also, props on having a chick that buys you auto parts for holidays. Put a ring on her lol!

 

Lol. The concentration throne.

I do the same. Makes me wonder how many other members do....lol. strange.

Anyway, thank you sir. And yes, she is a pretty awesome woman. We where the jewelry that the other one buys, on our vehicles.

I recently picked her up a GT3071R for her Hyuandai Gen Coupe, some Eibach sway bars, and a Grimm Speed phenolic spacer. Installed a Greddy boost controlling, and holy cow her little cars freaking moves now. Needless to say, she like her new jewelry. Haha. Just don't test her if you come up next to her on the road....

I have had quite s few people say the same thing about my tolerance. Got far to much invested into it to give up now. Plus, in a state with no engine, it really doesn't have much resale value. Lol.

As well, I don't like giving up on a project. Especially one which means so much to me. That's where the sticker and title come into play. NEVR give up.


To note on further progress. Was able to drop the truck in the rear, more this past Labor Day weekend. It used to have about 6.5" of rear fender to wheel gap. Now it has 3". It created a rake stance. Didn't like it that way.

I also recently talked with John at LC Engineering. Found a reasonable way to get some cam work done, that will still be factory ECU friendly. Quite under complicated. So once i shoot him an email, he will check into specs and cost. I am going to estimate half the cost of the current $1800.

 

I think the aspect of your build that intrigues me the most is the t56 trans and t case AWD setup... I'm not sure which page it is on but that was when the build started to truly blow my mind...
I'll be the first to admit I only understand about 1/3 or less of the engine talk...

When you have time I'd love to hear you elaborate more on that topic.

 

Here is a short read about the transfer case. Borg Warner's 4472. Has a nice 33% to 66% split.

http://www.rsgear.com/articles/1996_12.pdf

Here is the transmission which I currently have. The Rockland Standard Gear Tranzilla T56.

http://www.rsgear.com/products/transmissions/tranzilla.aspx

Now, yes, I have the regular T56 and not the Magnum, but no worries. Just a little different adapter plate. RSGear was also recently showing off their newest adapter plates for my style T56, at SEMA last year. Either way, they have the tools to make the adpater easily.

Here is after-thought re-inspiration to follow through with AWD process.

AWD Awesomeness!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIeE78IlIzE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fP65Duul-7Q&feature=channel&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L49ufubr-I&feature=channel&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHsJgidaBhY&feature=channel&list=UL

That should get your noodle wet. Lol

 

The only thing I have to do is figure out which lsd will be best up front. Haven't looked that far yet.

I do know, thanks to the thread here on TW, about the front driveline vibration, that the factory one does need to be swapped out. Very badly.

 

Here are the HD axle perches that I installed this past weekend. From Clavert Racing.



Sitting next to the Tundra Racing perch.



Tundra Racing perch with a shim.



Still need to properly adjust the traction bars, but I will wait until I have all of the weight in the truck.



And lastly a pic for reference.





Also note, that I had to swap the Tundra Racing shackle out for the factory one. Otherwise it would have been a lift. The main reason for these Calvert racing perches is that with the Tundra racing drop kit, my truck always sat about 3"+ higher in the rear than Toon's did. And I installed the same drop on his truck.

Most likely due to his leaves and being a '09, versus mine being an '06.

 

Dude your truck is soooo sick man i love turbos, even if its a slow turboed car i love the sound awesome job too btw, youve put tons of work into it! I wish i could start a project car to learn how to do everything like you but i dont have the money anyways, amazing build

 

Living vicariously through another can sometimes be much easier on the wallet as well. Lol.

Thank you for the compliments Austin, and I agree. The sound of a turbo devouring the air, the BOV venting it between shifts, the fire coming out of the tail, and getting sucked into the seat, like a stretched rubber band attached to your back that was just released, is adrenaline pumping.

Most likely by next year, my truck will be running at full potential. It should be awesome, and there will be plenty of GoPro vids.

 

Still need to get the time-line of pics up, to get everything caught up to today.

But here are some pictures that couldn't wait.

Courtesy of Jim at Darton East.







And a close-up of the sleeves all machined out....This is getting very exciting!

 

Help me out...
What does "sleeveing" the cylinders do exactly?
I feel dumb.

 

Modern aluminum block engines use steel cylinder sleeves inside to let the pistons ride in. Aluminum is just to soft and would quickly wear away under the abuse of piston rings. Open-deck blocks have a space between the sleeves and the block at the top of the engine block. Closed-deck blocks have some reinforcement between the sleeves and block at the top of the engine block. In high-HP applications like forced induction, etc that can create much larger pressures inside the combustion chamber and more violent combustion's, an open-deck block is weaker because it cannot tolerate as much pressure. The head gaskets (between the cylinder head and block, right at the open/closed-deck interface) tend to fail due to the movement between the cylinder and block, and the pressure blows out the side. Closed-deck blocks, being more rigid at that point, can hold in the pressure better and are more resistant to blowing out head gaskets.

 

Well said Lucario.

Some more to complement what he mentioned, it that the sleeve liners which our engines has are very thin. I believe, but could be wrong, that they are a nicasil(?) liner. < I swear i read or heard that somewhere. Anyway, it is a great liner, as long as no damage ever happens to it. But the first time you have piston to cylinder wall contact, it will score it, and just a tad to much, and you will have to replace the block. So if you have invested heavily into your engine, that then becomes the next weakest link.

There was a member that I helped a little with his engine, as far as guiding him with information, when his head gaskets failed. He had a between 100-150k miles, and was TRD S/C for a large portion of that, if I recall correctly. I remember him mentioning that the mechanic had stated that it was evident that there was cylinder wobble on the gaskets, and it was most likely the reason for them failing.

The first step to combating the cylinder wobble, especially when adding boost, is add in ARP head studs. The stronger studs will resist stretching much more than the OEM bolts, thus allowing a lot less potential for wobble, over the life of the engine. www.Dezod.com and www.lceperformance.com have those.

If you are going to be in there installing head studs, by all means, you should go ahead and install Cometic Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets as well. Much more robust than the factory ones.

HomerTaco, for you my friend, here is some extra reading material that will get you up to speed on the sleeves which I am having installed. http://www.dartonsleeves.com/midinfo.html

Hopefully I will have some more pictures to share by the end of the week.

 

http://www.nicasil-zep.com/uk/niploy.html

 

Torspd.. how old are you? I wish I knew this much about engines. I'm kinda paving way and learning most as I go as no one I know around here is very big into cars.

 

Now that is cool.

In my early thirties. Sure don't feel as such though.

 

i honestly want to take a drive to houston just to check this truck out...i speed wayyyyy too much time on this build thread and on the xru one makes me want to sell my truck and get another tacoma lol

 

I get it now... Thanks for the links!

So with the new sleeves I see it is possible to increase the bore of the cylinder... Will you now have a larger displacement?

 

That usually is the side effect of boring out