TORSPD: NEVR

Check it. It is only supposed to be a few millimeters. That will give you maximum disk disengagement, and make it easier to shift and slip for take-off.

Too close however will cause it to ride. So close to the minimum tolerance is best.

Changing subjects, I am seriously considering these mirrors. To reduce the driver side blind spot even more so.

http://shop.aprperformance.com/inde...t&product_id=144&search=Universal+gt3+mirrors ***Edited***

 

Lol. No. Not the field of view which your mirror lenses fixed. The blind spot caused by the tight gap between the mirror and the A-pillar.

Coupled with the large size of the mirror. Makes it difficult to be accurate take a left turn, precisely at the edge of safety for a "clipping point." If I had 35's, I wouldn't quite worry about it. I race though, and would rather be accurate than use perception for every left turn...

 

I guess if your link wasn't dead I might have been able to see that for myself.

 

http://shop.aprperformance.com/inde...t&product_id=144&search=Universal+gt3+mirrors

Weird how that didn't work before. Hopefully this one does.

 

Gotcha. So you're concerned with being able to look around the mirror as well.

 

Absolutely. That gap between the back of the mirror to the a-pillar is just to close for my liking.

 

My dad had those mirrors on the Evo. Much cool points, very wow

Really though, they're sick mirrors.

Edit: Side note you might find fun, the Evo is gone and he ordered a Caterham with the lowered floor/big motor/wide track

 

Is it possible that the engagement can change? Here is my situation: 4hi 1st to 2nd gear shift in 12"+ of snow on 35's the clutch started slipping. Had to use the skinny pedal to power through a drift. Got to the other side and now it is extremely hard to get trans into any gear. Clutch fully depressed and forcing into first the pickup will actually start moving forward while trying to put it into gear. Keep in mind this is a stage 3+ clutch rated for over 580 wheel torque. I know my engine won't put out that high even running stage 3 urd setup.

Also on a side note.... is it possible to hear a blown head gasket. As in sounds like an exhaust leak but from one cylinder on passenger side.

 

Well, today it seemed like everything firmed up a bit. Maybe I need to drive it around some more. That first 2 inches of play seemed alot firmer this afternoon. Ill drive it around for a little longer and see if it was just hydrolics or something that needed to be pumped.

 

I'd check your pedal to master cylinder piston as well. At least to rule it out.

Let me ask this though. How long and or how many miles does the clutch have on it? Is it making any new or unfamiliar noises? Was a new TOB installed? Have you checked your reservoir's fluid level? Does the clutch pedal still behave the same as when the clutch worked properly, pressure wise?

 

On my twin disk, ever since I swapped to the Tilton TOB, I have encountered the strangest operation. Which I have taken my time to solve. The issue being that if I haven't driven the truck, in say 8 hours, the clutch pedal will be extremely soft.

Then after driving a few miles, the clutch pedal resistance increases, or stiffens up. If I then park the truck for a short period of time, then come back to it, the first depression of the pedal will be extremely stiff. Then I pump it a few times, and the resistance lessens back to the "driving stiffness." The McLeod TOB was just always stiff.

I have upgraded all of the lines from the master cylinder to the TOB, to -4 AN. Installed a new master cylinder. Installed an independant reservoir. All to no avail. The only next option is to try installing a larger diaphragm master cylinder. Unfortunately, the one I ordered from Wilwood was far to large overall. So I'll need to get a different one.

 

Let me ask this though. How long and or how many miles does the clutch have on it? 1year almost to the day. Around 8k miles
Is it making any new or unfamiliar noises? No new noises.
Was a new TOB installed? Yes.
Have you checked your reservoir's fluid level? Yes. It is golden.
Does the clutch pedal still behave the same as when the clutch worked properly, pressure wise? I feel no difference.

Maybe pressure plate went bad or throw out fork bent?

 

How much play is between your clutch pedal and the piston?

If you push the clutch pedal in all the way, is it easy to go into gear, or hard? And does the vehicle try to move forward with the clutch pedal fully depressed? (I believe that is what you were trying to state earlier?)

If it tries to move forward while clutch is fully depressed, and trying to get into gear, then your clutch isn't fully disengaging.

Make sure there is only a few millimeters of play between the clutch pedal and piston.

 

Sorry. I was in a rush and didn't realize that you had answered the questions within the quote.

 

No worries. I will double check specs when i get home end of the week. Do you know total travel distances of the slave cylinder?

And on the head gasket, could that be blown or maybe a bad valve now that i think about it...

 

I do not know the travel specs of the master cylinder, under the pedal, or the slave cylinder, in the transmission. The specs for pedal travel between back of pedal and piston should be easy to find though.

You shouldn't be able to hear a head gasket problem, externally. I am guessing you are meaning a head to header gasket perhaps? That would be audible, and sound like a loud clicking. Depending on where or how bad the leak is, it will throw a CEL. There will also be tell tell signs of soot around the area.

 

Never even saw that Evo in person and already miss is. Aiming to emulate as much of that vehicle as possible.

@FreidTaco

Also check your fittings for the clutch. Make sure they are all tight and try rebleeding it as well. Knock out all of the simple things prior to taking any big steps.

 

Will do. Thanks hoss.