TORSPD: NEVR

Don't know if it's this Saturday or next.

But some baby shower/engagement thing? Lol

 

Link?

 

Oh im sure. Hopefully gadget figures something out for the newer trucks.

 

Don't have one lol

Call Tony or jessie. Or just come by

 

Oh dang. I thought you meant forum members..... Gotcha!

 

Tor, it doesn't seem that you are using any of the tundra racing lowering kit anymore. Would you recommend it still or would you tell someone to do the spring under and coilovers?

Thanks

 

That is correct. Depending on how low people want to go, and how easily they want to get there, I tell them either the Tundra Racing kit, or how to drop it without the kit.

I needed to be lower than the TR kit, so I went a different route. An axle flip kit, while retaining the OEM rear shackles, and coil overs will get you to where my truck is. Then there are additional fine tuning components which can also be upgraded.

XII Performance is the easiest place to get coil overs from. Just need the shock tower adapter for the PreRunner instead of the X-Runner.

 

Well I have great news to share. My engine didn't have a head gasket leak after all. Turns out that valve in the new Snap-Op compression tester, had gone bad. The spring on it had blown out, so it wouldn't hold pressure. Figured that out while working on another person's vehicle. So retested my suspect cylinder, with a new valve installed. Low and behold, 175 psi compression. Here is the bad valve, with the exposed spring.



All cylinders testing good, there had to be a leak somewhere else. Sure enough, when pressurized, the radiator had a steady small sized stream coming out of the bottom of it. So it has a crack in it somewhere near the top. I have a video of it which I can post later.

 

Only the radiator needed to be swapped back to stock, but my old one was trashed some time ago, so I ran by Advance Auto and picked up a new one. Problem solved.

Then came trying to figure out why I had lost boost, if it wasn't the head gasket. Well while cycling the coolant, I pulled off the intake filter. What do you know, the turbo was actually sitting still while at warmed engine idle. Sitting STILL... Do a quick check on it, and sure enough the shaft has play. No yay. Well that there completely explains the loss of psi. Plain and simple. That will now be the second Precision journal bearing turbo to go out just by operation alone. At very low boost at that. Glorified Chinese turbos, and I'll leave it at that.

Had an oil additive that I have had on the shelf for a while. Figured what the hell, let's do an experiment.....

 

Uh oh...

 

I am not sure how many members here have heard about or used RS-R's Ran Up, but it is the additive which I have had.

Here is a test of it done on Moto-IQ. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArtic...s-Ran-Up-Oil-Treatment-Power-in-a-Bottle.aspx

Well, understanding the additive's function, I figured, "Why not?" The turbo is already damaged, so what is this going to hurt? Nothing. Granted Rob and I were both skeptical if it would do anything or not.

Poured it in. Idled the truck. (***From a cold start it has a high idle. Roughly 1100 rpms. Before when the turbo wasn't spinning, was when the engine warmed up and idle was around 670-730 rpms. At the cold start high idle it would spin, until the idled down *** )With the Ran-Up circulating, the turbo acted the same as expected. Then as the engine slowly warmed up and the idle dropped, the turbo was still spinning.

At one point when the engine rpm was around 800 the turbo would slow down then speed up. Either way, it was clearly working. Let the engine idle down to low 700's and it was still spinning. Decided it was time for a test drive.

Its responsiveness was noticeably improved. Didn't pick back up the lost PSI though. The engine and the turbo were operating more quitely, we both agreed.

Came back and popped the hood. At warm idle, the turbo was spinning much faster, compared to when we first poured in the Ran-Up.

It has my approval. Hands down.

 

Recommend for everybody or just boosted people?

 

It will be fine on boosted or naturally aspirated. Just friction reducing additive.

Not to be confused with an anti-wear additive.

Rob and I have come up with a plan to test it. To see how much friction is reduced.

 

Oh lord...set myself up for that one....

No. Not like that. Lol. But thank you for pointing that out Nate. Ha.

Do a comparative test at his facility to see how much friction is reduced. For example, compare a 30 weight to a 20 weight. Then add in the additive and see if it gets it anywhere near the 20 weight. Obviously the is just my idea, and not the verbatim process. The objective is easy enough though.

 

uhhh......I didn't sign up for that.

 

Uhhhh this thread just got weird. Enjoy your friction test.

On another note, waited till around 550 miles before I really tried out the new clutch and had some fun. Holy crap man, I can definitely feel the change from the lightweight flywheel. Acceleration feels much more improved, fast shifting at high rpms still puts me in my seat and engages almost instantly. Took me a good week or two to get used to it, I still almost stall every so often in 1st from a dead stop, but usually when I'm not paying much attention and my foot lets go to quickly. 10/10 would make the change again, we'll see how I like it offroad. The only difference I forsee is better clutch control on my part since there is alot less slippage happening.

 

Now we'll see how I like it on 34's and LT before I regear. Probably a little bit better than stock, but not much. Regearing to 4.56 with lockers once the truck fund fills back up after the LT build in April. Or getting UCON if that comes out before I get to the regear Once UCON is released for 2012+ I'll be adding that +7th injector +2.7 pulley +water/meth injection. Solid motor mounts and trans mounts with 4.56 gearing on 34s gives me high hopes for 350+ hp

 

You adapted to driving with excessive clutch slippage, that it felt normal. After a few thousand miles, it should be much easier to slip off of the line.

It will still be easier to get the truck moving with the 34's and this clutch, than the stock one. I bet your old flywheel had some nice heat spots on it.

 

I'm guessing that my clutch/flywheel are not long for this world. Slipping the clutch offroad has to happen, and I've gotten it warm enough to stink plenty of times, never any smoke though. On the last trip I could actually hear it slipping, which is new.

Guess I need to look into some new/different parts before I get myself stranded on the trail. Maybe I'll just swap everything when the crawl box happens.