TORSPD: NEVR

Closest thing I could find to a reference image. The wheels are 20's if you were wondering.

 

After a few days of block prep, I finally pulled out the timing cover which arrived with Goldylocks. To start prepping it for installation by removing any old gasket material, and swapping out the oil pump for a new one.

Since it had lost oil pressure on the dyno, and spun some bearings, in its past life, I planned on swapping out the oil pump to be on the safe side.

Come to find out it wouldn't be necessary.





Didn't like the purple nurple glitter color anyway. Without work, it is basically trash. On to plan B. Pulled out the timing cover from the original block that came with the truck. Another Ace up my sleeve.

Oh. The block is looking pretty dang good, and I must say. That new color just screams power.

 

What it used to look like.




What it will look like, is TBA.

 

My roomate took a really cool picture the other night, when he had to drive me home. Threw back a few to many, we'll say.

 

Guess I'll add a little update. Had some miscommunications two weeks back. As well as when I originally ordered the head gaskets. Thicker ones were needed than what I had ordered. Long story condensed, they will be arriving this week. In the mean time I have been trying to knock out punch list items of the other components so that assembly will be as quickly as possible.

New water pump gasket installed, as well as the old silicone removed from the timing cover. Had to rummage though the old boxes to find the hardware for the water pump.



Old oil around the pump removed and replaced with assembly lube. The tube which sends oil from the pump up to the top of the timing cover for the oil filter, recieved new gaskets. They were old and deformed. While I was there, I took some of pictures of the timing cover where the root of the timing cover TSB stems from.

 

I posted this information in another thread as well.

Not sure why I never took pictures prior to now, but at least now I have them and can share them.

Here are the two machined locations, on the mating surface of the timing cover, in the location of where the power steering pump resides. As well as where the tsb fix is for.





Here you can clearly see how the mating surface is not even. The first picture is of the gap closest to the top of the timing cover. The second and third pictures are the next slot a little lower.

 

These coolant tubes had some rust on them. The coating was coming off in a few external places. Sanded them down, and used POR15 as the rust inhibitor. I dare you to have some of that dry on your skin. Triple dog dare you!



This was the preliminary coat. It has since been finished and installed to the valley.

 

If its anything like having extra strength epoxy dry on your skin, you're gonna have a patch of it there for a good two weeks

 

Been there, done that. Paint thinner before it dries or it'll be there for a while.

 

I almost jumped on the spray paint train when I pulled my head last month. I do like the color.

 

I do very much as well. It turned out exactly the way I hoped.

This is an enamel spray paint meant specifically for engines. Sprays on like it is thin, as it will run easily, but dries hard.

American Muscle paint BTW.

 

About to say, you're engine bay is gonna look like a chevy minus two cylinders (among other things).

 

Go fast orange

 

Yesterday was a day of engine building progress. Lucario Runner picked uo the headgaskets, and assembly commenced when I made it home from work. Not without a twist to the story of course....

Headgaskets installed.



Cams removed for stud installtion.



This loctite has some serious bonding strength!





Passenger side on amd snugged. Driver side on and the torqueing of both heads about to commence.



Found this stud which had the head cut off. Couldn't figure out why, so I had to scavange a stud from the stroker engine's set, to use in the driver side head.

 

Both heads all torqued down. Rob and I were laying out the game plan for the rest of the assembly. While doing so, I decided to pull the intake cam gear's VVTI solenoid out of the driver side head (visible in the picture) and move it into the passenger head where it belonged.




Felt some resistance, and noticed that it wouldn't seat flush. Hmm????

Upon inspection, I saw something which I had never encountered before.





Going back to this picture, if you look closely at the two visible studs on the passenger head, you'll notice that the stud closest to the valley is higher that the other. Enough so to cause interference with the solenoid.



And this is where the twist in the story happens.

It now made sense why there was one cut stud & nut...so we had to uninstall that number 8 stud, and insert the cut one in its place. By this time, that locite had already started curing. Sufficiently enough, that when we tried to remove the stroke engine stud, it twisted the allen bit.



Guess that Matco bit wasn't up to task.....

Re-torque that bolt, and then torqued down the trimmed studs.





Let it be known that in all of the studs which I have installed in multiple blocks, this is the first one that I have encountered such as this...an extremely uncommon occurance.

 

Hemi Orange

 

So what tolerance was off that allowed for this to happen?

 

The tolerance as in the length of the stud? It was the same as the others. I took a long straight pic and stuck it into the bottom of the hole. There is either something cemented down there or the hole just wasn't drilled to the same depth as the other 3 blocks which I have installed studs in. Couldn't get a good visual. Whatever is at the bottom, it is hard.

Beats me how it happened. Just adds more flavor to the story.

 

@Coupe , I'll be needing one of the baffled lower oil pan spacers really soon. To finish off the engine build!