TORSPD: NEVR

Spare engine before hot tank :





And now after first level of cleaning (still going through two more):





A few more weeks and the spare engine will be good as new. Throw it back in until my built engine is finished up.

 

wow what difference that made.
can waot to see your final product, i gotta feeling im gonna be jealous lol

 

Yeah it really did. In person, you can really see/feel the difference. I also gave them one main cap to clean. Didn't feel like scraping that one my self. Wanted to see how well the solution would clean it. Been in the tank for a week and still has old burn oil on it....

Might end up just giving them all of the parts to assemble the lower end, since the rotating assembly needs to be re-balanced. Crank is from my original engine which had hydro-locked. Four of the rod/pistons can still be used, but the other two are from one of my other engines which was torn down.

And here is a new piece I picked up from Kozmic Motorsports yesterday. Fuel Lab FPR. Made in America bitches!





Outlet for fuel return.



Dual -10AN inlets

 

Just saw this... ya hurry up and get your ass down here!

 

Just waiting for May..

By then Tor should have everything but the flux capacitor installed...

 

That is still sitting on the shelf. Gotta get my Gigawatt transformer...then watch out McFly.

 

I commend you for buying USA made. I have a really bad problem where I look up where something is made before I buy it, and only buy USA, German or Japanese made unless there is no alternative. The only things I've bought that aren't made in USA in the last year and a half are a polisher(China), 2 shirts(Haiti), and superglue(Ireland[WHAT?!?]).

Bayside Apparel makes USA made clothing, Game workwear makes some as well(a main supplier to our fire dept., and other emergency services).

Research is all it takes, but then you just have to find somebody that sells that product. PS sorry for getting off topic

 

Here are some more pictures of my drop with the new round U-bolts attached.

As you can see, the 4x4/PreRunner Bilsteins are now to long. They bottom out prior to the bump stops. So I am in the search of a new set of rear shocks.

I do the exact same. I have pride in stuff that we make, or that is make with quality and pride. Not the lowest bidder. A recent find to me is a new clothing company here in the states. www.American-giant.com. Made by US with quality and durability in mind. As well as America.

 

Here are some parts that I picked up in February this year.

My "Down pipe" black ceramic coated by Polydyn.com



As well as a vacuum block to clean up my crazy mess of vacuum hoses every where. Which I still need to finish getting matching fittings for.





Pick that up locally through PowerFab Automotive.

 

Back in February, after having the "spare engine" in for a while, I kept getting check engine lights, and needed to correct the issue. Made my fuel mileage suck and driveability was terrible. Couldn't hardly accelerate.

So I took a week off to pull the timing cover and install the T56.

This is what we found when we opened up the engine, as well as what was needed to be replaced.



Draining the rest of the coolant from both water jackets as well as the radiator.







Everywhere there can be, there is burn oil.





These are the two pieces which needed to be swapped.



The sensor pickup and sensors were different on my '06 than that of the '03 4Runner engine. Since I couldn't use the sensor that came with the old engine, due to being a two wire design, versus our sensors which use three, that is why I had to swap out the intake cam gears. God bless spare parts from my multiple engines. lol



Quite honestly, I am still amazed to this day that the engine didn't get rod knock sooner..

 

More of the cam gear swap.

Truck mimicing angry smilie






Setting up the timing.








If you look closely, directly under the yellow painted link, there is a dimple that I marked with a Sharpie.




Another angle to show the dimple on the timing cog. It gets lined up the the potrusion on the block behind it, when setting up timing. It is at about 10-11 o'clock.

 

Took a break from the work and went to hang out with some friends at Planet Zero Anime Center.

Had a friend with his SWB XR and a custom 4-link swing by as well. Clifford. I think this was one of the few times that we didn't get but a few pics. The break was worth though.



Here is a better pic of Cliff's truck.







^^^Crazy ass sticker. Lol

 

What a fun day cleaning that engine was huh?

 

Picked up the aluminum One-piece for the trans swap.





Then compared the weight of the 3.5" steel one-piece to the 4" aluminum.

Steel-



Aluminum



Stonger and lighter. Win win.

Flywheel ready with pilot bearing for T56.



Factory transmission out and as best I could, on the scale. The flange from the T-case was touching the ground, so the number is not copmletely accurate. Still a heavy bee-otch by oneself.





As a matter of fact, with the help from Lucario Runner, I just removed that transfercase this past weekend. Need to put it up for sale, since I hardly ever used it.

T56 sans bell-housing.



Bell-housing



Prepped for install....



Spec Clutch in.

 

Understated sarcasm.... We should have been more thorough, and swapped out the oil sump as well. Hind-sight.....

 

reading material added...

win.

 

During the transmission install, I ran into two problems. The first being that I had left the transmission in Neutral. That made it impossible for me to line up the splines when I turned the output shaft.

Then, the input shaft wouldn't slide into the pilot bearing. So I had to drop it back down. That is when I found the second problem. The at the edge of the beveled tip, where it straightens out, there was a lip. Being of such a tight tolerance, between the input shaft and the Pilot bearing, that lip prevented me from being able to stab the transmission.





So word to the wise, if anyone else does this swap, make sure the beveled edge of the input shaft has no potentially problematic lips/burs on it. And make sure it is in manual.

A little Dremel action and the trans was ready to be re-installed. After I re-centered the clutch, it went in nice and smoothly.

Then it was time to do a little body work....

Snack time



Carpet munching all done , I had to cut out some of the sheet metal to be able to fit the shifter. It sits back much further than the stock location.









Here you can see where the factory boot hole end, and how much more I had to cut back .





Adding on a little silicone.





Finished up. If you notice the gold anodized bracket, which holds the shifter arm, you will see that it points to the driver seat. After re-installing the center console, it was to close and I couldn't get it in gear. So I un-bolted it and moved it forward where it faced the radio.

 

Here was another hurdle that needed some modification.



That cross member was originally meant for a Xrunner. Clearly it sits to far forward, and not high enough.





So I took some measurements, and dropped the cross member off to my friends at PowerFab.

After looking at this picture now, I feel that I should get the sides gusseted.







Alex at PowerFab made some beautiful welds.

 

After the test drive, this is what I noticed RPM wise. Keep in mind, I have 20 wheels with a 275/40 tire. So a little over 28" diameter. Which is a little smaller than stock.

With the oem transmission, in 6th gear at 2k RPMs the speedo showed 60 mph. It was actually a little slower due to smaller than stock tires.

In 5th gear, 60 mph @ 2k RPMs. Don't even need 6th, unless I am going over 80. Lol.

When I change my wheel and tire size, they might be a tad smaller than my current setup. If they are, then it will be similar to changing my final gear, to a slightly lower one. I am still running the 3.73 gear set.

Another thing that I learned, was that because right after install, I didn't have my speedometer wired up. I was just using GPS for a few days. That being said, my fuel needle was moving up and down with the fuel as I would accelerate, brake, or turn. That was quite strange at first test drive. Didn't know what was going on.

As soon as the Dakota Digital box was wired in, it went right back to normal.

All of that being finished, I fell in love with my truck all over again. Such fun truck to drive with a new super smooth transmission! So then, it was time to add some finess to other parts.

There was a car show coming up around the corner, and wanted to get things looking a polished up as possible.

DEI Titanium heat wrap on the down tube.




Did a tight over lap, as you can tell, so I ended up running out of what was left from the huge roll, after wrapping the other parts.

Also received my T4 copper gasket for the turbine inlet.









This is an upgrade from the steel T4 gasket I was using. This is thicker and will seal better. The steel gasket had actually been leaking for an unkown amount of time. I noticed that when I pulled the turbo kit off.