TORSPD: NEVR

About a week after having the timing cover/cam gear work done, I noticed an oil leak. First, I removed the valve cover and thoroughly cleaned it, then added new silicone to the two spots where the timing cover meets the head.

Test drive and all seemed fine. Drive to and from work a few days. Check the oil level, and it is low again. With oil on the passenger side of the block. Clean it off and let truck idle. Look a the o-ring for the dip stick. Since the cavity was full of oil. Nothing.

Drive to work and back, and there is oil on the side of the engine again. It was either splashing up just under the valve cover, getting blown back from the fan from the timing cover towards the rear of the block, or possibly another area that I hadn't seen before.

Well, finally I started looking in a different area. I started at the rear of the block and noticed that there was oil back there. So unless the head gasket was leaking oil, something else was going on. I looked in the valley by the injectors, and sure enough there was oil there. From that point, I just followed the trail til it stopped. This is what I had found




^That sensor is supposed to be removed before you can remove the timing cover. Well, due to the poor nature of care on this block, it couldn't be completely removed. Only the top half would come out. Which actually worried me. Upon re-installation apparently I smashed a corner down, and so it wouldn't seal properly.

This is what it looks like with the top half removed.




And the bent tab.



I was finally able to pry that sensor out, as it was nearly seized in by burnt oil.




And next to the new sensor. Got to love having so many spare parts.

 

Following that stuff, it was finally time to finish up the exhaust. It had been in an incomplete state for over a year. In front of the axle, straight back. With the car show right around the corner, it was time to finish it up.

So met up with Alex at PowerFab, and finished it off. Ordered a v-band flange from www.reidwashbon.com that was one smooth face of 304 SS and the other half was a smooth face aluminum flange. That way I could finish it up in aluminum.















I need to get a good exhaust sound video clip, once I have it back up and running.


I chose aluminum because I wanted to do something different. It helps keep the overall weight down. And it is much cheaper than Inconel. Definitely happy with it.

 

I also finished up finding out the best way to route the hoses with the vacuum block, so as not to cause any check engine lights. Mainly the EVAP CEL. Although, I still need to get matching fittings for a cleaner appearance.



As well as I added a 90* silicone coupling to improve how the filter was sitting.

It used to be forward facing like this, but it hit the over flow hose. Looked tacky. Thus the coupling. That damn filter is just massive though, and made for a lot of trimming on that 90*





Those final few touches, IMO, made things look much much nicer.



Also I think it helped out at the Anime Matsuri/Import Reactor car meet that took place about a week later. April 6-8 2012.

 

Here are a few of the pics from that event. It was pretty damn cool. Some of the Anime costumes that people had were absolutely amazing!

Toon714's truck -











My friend Stoner-X's XR -








Some of mine -








And the other eye candy -

 

More.......


















Picked up 3rd Place for best Toyota. Very Honored!!!



The Gang -



Driver sticker, and lady's sticker











Soy Sauce

 

Import Reactor was a blast. However, on the way home.....the spare engine decided it was time to spin a rod bearing.......

So, since April '12, I have no longer been able to drive my truck.

Either way, the progress continues. NEVR going to let that minor setback slow down my final goal.

That being said, here is another problem I had to deal with.

Because the shifter was so short, the bottom of the Sparco shifter ball would hit, and prevent me from being able to get into the even gears.



As you can see, I had to cut out a pretty decent amount of the center console. Looks ugly as sin, but it was necessary at the time.



I even talked with MGW, whom I purchased the shifter from, and asked if they could make a shifter arm that was a few inches taller. They said they couldn't.

Which led me to talk with Coupe once again. I asked him the same thing. He said,"Not a problem."

This is the end result.



So now all that I need to do is get another center console, and all will be back to normal-ish.

 

So much win.

 

Not much after that happened over the next few months. Basically just getting things paid off. Such as the Darton M.I.D. sleeves, Brain Crower Stroker crank, and throwing down some additional cash on a new turbo.

Also did some testing on a couple custom intake manifolds. Hit up www.MSRHouston.com with some friends.

Then got updates.....which brings us back to the sleeved engine and spare engine.

First, here is the APR (www.aprpower.com) -8AN billet fuel rail. The day it arrived back in April.



Still haven't done anything with it, since there isn't a need to yet. However, I did recently order some of the fittings that I will need when the time comes.

I chose the Aeromotive fittings because the have a smooth transition from large to small internal diameters. Some other brands' fittings just have a square step from one I.D. to the other. Creates turbulance, that I don't want.
www.aeromotiveinc.com





And the mock-up, with my new FPR.



Here is the sleeved engine again. Repeat refreshers.







4.3 liter stroker crank









Talked with Darton East yesterday. They have been short staffed for the past few months. That coupled with the holidays, and having to get a set of matching pistons for the crank, had slowed down my engine build. They have a new mechanic, and said that I should have some updates within the next couple of days. WOOT.

Also, another project that should be nearing completion by hopefully next week, will be my www.McLeodRacing.com RXT Twin Disk clutch.

It will have a custom 18 lb. steel flywheel, new throwout bearing, remote bleed line, and be capable of 1000 whp. Fuggin' A!

Woohoo! (In Homer's voice)

 

The last few things that have been completed along the way:

Sandwich plate modding completed so that I can install my Air-Air oil cooler.





Those are -10AN fittings. ( If any one doesn't know what AN stands for, it means ARMY NAVY. The size relation is like this -10AN = 10/16 = 5/8" I hope that helps. )

Grill, by the master



And then also some QA1's for an XR.





Installing those was necessary due to the OEM 4x4/PreRunner Bilsteins being too long and bottoming out long before the bump stops. $75 for the pair if any body wants them?

Also recently pulled the transfer-case from the OEM trans, that is up for grabs as well. Sadly, that thing probably has less than 500 miles useage on it. Lol


As for the spare block, I was supposed to go and pick it up today, but it was just raining to crazy. It is all cleaned up and has a fresh hone on it. So I need to pick it up, and drop off the rotating assemble to be balanced. Then it will be time to put it all back together. And I should have my turck running N/A, for at least a llittle while, until I can get the built engine back. Woot!

 

Almost there man!

 

That is what I thought, about 3 months ago.....

 

Was just looking through URDUSA's new products page. They recently listed for sale a 170* T-Stat bolt-on upgrade. Much easier than the custom setup that I did to make my 160* work.

I will be looking into that real soon.

http://urdusa.com/p1260519134/URD-170-Performance-Thermostat-for-1GR-FE-4.0L-V6/product_info.html



All sorts of other goodies as well.

https://urdusa.com/products_new.php



Also, I just ordered some ARP head studs from Dezod

http://www.dezod.com/pd_arp_head_stud_kit-1gr.cfm



As well as a new set of Cometic head gaskets.

http://www.dezod.com/pd_cometic_mult-layer_steel_head_gasket-1gr.cfm

Picked up my spare engine from the local machine shop yesterday. All ready to re-assemble.

 

The spare engine back on the stand. Finally!








And the main caps.

 

block looks better.

 

So are you basically converting it to a Prerunner?

 

Hm, what about billet steel main caps and ARP studs to make that bottom end really strong.

 

The OEM Toyota tranfercase will not work with the T56 transmission. I have to order a Borg Warner transfercase and adapter kit from Rockland Standard Gear, to be able to make mine AWD.

That is why my OEM transfercase is for sale.

This engine is only my spare back-up engine. But since the cost of those upgraded parts isn't much more than the OEM counterparts, might as well get the better stuff, right?

As for the main caps, I guess I could have had billet steel ones made for my built engine. Didn't think about that, and the progress on it is too far along at this point to turn around and have those custom made.

I did however have Darton East do the necessary homework to be able to install ARP main studs. Apparently ours aren't very common. They also had to take in consideration the extra length needed to allow for the girdle's thickness, which they are making for the main caps.

 

Ah!! haha. Don't know why that didn't cross my mind. I even knew that you had the T56... haha.

Nice!! AWD will help with the traction issue hopefully

 

Also, I forgot to add, but once I get a few other things taken care of, I am getting one of the ATI Super Damper crank pulleys.

http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/damtoyota.htm

MMMMMMM

 

It certainly should. Be like an EVO but with a bed. Hehe.

I already talked a little with RSG. They said parts would cost $1500 or $1700. Can't quite remember.