TORSPD: NEVR

Very interesting! Thanks for sharing Tor. Looks like you're gonna have way too much $$$$$$ in this rig, but what an education you're getting.

 

Couldn't have said it better. Kind of hard for me to remember all of the lessons I have learned up to this point, but trust me, when the situation arises, the knowledge is there.

Plenty of money into no doubt. At times, I you can easily say, it is too much. I love my truck though, and thank it for the opportunity it has given me. Despite the financial burden it is at times. Lol. Patience and NEVR Giving up, while continuing to forge forward. Pressing the envelope even that much farther.

Somebody has to do it. Just takes someone willing to do it.

 

After we filled up the fluids, it was start time. I wish I had a video of the start up, but I cannot find one.

Any way, as luck would have it, the JB Weld worked! And that it did.

After taking it easy to break in the Competition Clutch that I had, it gave me plenty of time to break in the motor as well. Took it easy for the first 1000 miles. Up revving and down revving in gear, to put both loads on the motor and rings. Did my best to keep from doing any steady constant speed over extended periods of drive time.

Once it was broken in, I sent a datalog to APR, to see what they thought. I was told that everything was running perfectly. Big thumbs up, and time to dyno.

Here is the datalog.



Basically gives you an idea of what the dyno will look like based off of the % Load, and MAF g/s (grams per second of air flowing over the MAF sensor).

My % Load and MAF g/s were:196.4% load & 372.7g/s MAF Not too shabby.

Being a mAF based system that we have, our MAF sensor in this respect is similar to the injectors. It has a duty cycle just as they do. The more g/s you flow, that means the closer you get to Max Duty cycle. I believe the Max MAF Duty cycle on our MAFs is 460 g/s. I would have to do some research, or ask Gadget to confirm on that. Point is, as you get closer to that point, if you could, you would have to upgrade the MAF sensor that can read more g/s within the same 5 VDC range.

I like MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor based system better, for my specific taste though.

 

Before the dyno was done though, I had to get some work done. Was tired of the crap tat I had been dealing with, between leaks and other components that came with the STS kit. I met some people at an NST drift even. They are from the company NEVRSLO
(Where I go the sticker NEVRSLO that has now been modidfied to represent my build. )

This is what we upgraded:

From this ugly weld -



To this -





This -



To this, with an upgraded TiAL V44 Wastegate -












All 304 SS, with a nice new V-band flange. No more leaking between Y-pipe to turbo back.

 

With the new exhaust components on, it was time to hit the dyno. The place I setup up the appointment with had a Mustang Dyno.

These were the numbers at 12 PSI.









407 whp, and 491 wtq.

Those were very good numbers.....at the time

One thing to note is the jagged line. If you compare that to the datalog AFR/Load/MAF, you can see that those lines are not smooth. That translated directly onto the dyno graph. A solid tune will give you a smooth graph.

 

Here are a few videos that Grumpy and I made to show off how things worked under load from the turbo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=FLY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&v=C8e4lG4DIp0&feature=player_detailpage

Really good to showcase the axle wrap. As well as there is on e part between shifts where you can clearly hear "compressor surge". That is when the pressure in the intake pipes cannot vent completely, and backs up. Thus causing the turbo to either stop, or in worst case scenarios sni backwards.

That led me to upgrade the Blow Off Valve, from the old style of TiAL (which came with the kit), to the new Q Series TiAL.

Here is another one that is a bit on the long side, but still pretty cool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8P49GxDbLA&list=FLY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=9&feature=plpp_video

 

Got a few good drift donuts in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAIYCtFrIYI&list=FLY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=1&feature=plpp_video

 

Epic...

Bravo sir.

 

Thank you sir.

It gets more interesting though.....Painlfully at points...Trust me.

 

My friend at Non Stop Tuning had a dyno day at CarBoy. So what the heck. Also had another guy with a PreRunner that made it there. He had an MKII.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_cPbpS_tCY&list=UUY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=8&feature=plpp_video

Here is his.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IWCG7l_4hY&list=UUY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=12&feature=plpp_video

Something seemed wrong with the dyno, for whatever the reason though. We had another guy with a TRD S/C that dyno'ed a few weeks prior. Since that time he had installed the URD Y-pipe, and X-1 with T-stat and gears. Properly tuned in and all. He showed 20 less hp. Other people with their cars were scratching their heads as well. Either way, it was fun to hang out and talk performance tech.

Here is MicPun's XR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cq-P8Ies090&list=UUY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=11&feature=plpp_video

 

im not really a turbo guy, i favor the s/c more but hell man the work you put into your truck is amazing!!! aswome build thread man keep up the unique work.

 

This build makes my pants tight.

 

Soon after the dyno day, I had noticed that my new, Stage Four Competition Clutch, 6-Puck clutch had started slipping had started slipping.

It just didn't have the clamping force, that I needed, to hold the torque that I was putting out, combined with the weight of my truck. Being 4500 pounds.

Recently, Mike at NonStopTuning started to carry the SPEC brand clutch line. After having a mod day at my place, I was able to get a hands on look at two of the clutches, in their Tacoma line. Needless to say, they were very impressive and stout.

Here are some pics of the Spec Stage 2+ and Stage 3 +. The 3+ is on the left.



Here is a close-up of the Stage 3+. It is a full disk, and very strong clutch material.



Both sides are the same solid material. This clutch is a very grippy clutch until fully broken-in. Then it drives like stock.



Here is the Stage 2+:



As you can see it is a 6 puck design. Friction material on pressure plate side, and I think a kevlar on the flywheel side.



I helped install this on my friend MicPun's truck.

We were both completely AMAZED at how smooth this clutch was on the first test drive. Felt exactly as smooth as the OEM clutch. However, this has a much higher rated capacity of 440 ft/lbs of crank torque!

 

Not the best picture, but another mod that I had invested in, shortly after that mod day.

A Braille 15 lbs battery.



I can get another pic later on, and add it in.

Throw-out bearing that comes with the SPEC Clutches.



Here are a couple more close-ups of the Stage 3+ surface.





Being that I was already pushing around 500 wtq at that time, I was surpassing what the Competition Clutch was rated for. I know this simply due to it slipping, and was higher than what the Spec Stage 2+ was rated for. So my obvious choice for being able to get the best and strongest clutch available for our trucks, was clearly the Spec Stage 3+. Rated @ 545 torque capacity.

Two months after the NST Sponsored meet at my place, I had my clutch, and a new light weight flywheel. I ordered the Fidanza aluminum flywheel from URD.



When I pulled the transmission out, this was the first thing I noticed about the input shaft on the transmission.



What you are looking at, is the area that the Throwout bearing slides back and forth. Due to the fact that the fork that moves the TOB back and forth, does it on an elliptical motion, it causes a stress on the input shaft. That in turn creates a lot of friction, which then causes the TOB to chirp. Very annoying!

Luckily, Gadget at URD has a part that helps with that.

http://www.urdusa.com/p1260519023/T...IT,-2005+-Tacoma-V6-6-Speed/product_info.html

Notes:



Beautiful New pressure plate on the flywheel.





Doing this install by myself, without a transmission jack, was a pain in the ass. Took way to long.....14 hours roughly. Geez

Spec recommends minimum of 500 miles to break-in the clutch, before you can get on it. It took a good 2500-3000 miles of driving before it actually broke in to an OEM style feel.

I promise you all this though. I have not been able to slip this clutch flywheel combo, not matter how much power I have thrown at it. Even most recently with my engine horsepower being higher than what Spec's rated "torque capacity". Woot!!!

 

Thank you sir! I am no longer a rear mount "turbo guy" myself. Unless of course it is a quality built custom one. Those that I have seen perform very well.

I have seen quite a few Corvettes and 350Z's at PowerFab, here in town, that are TITS!

 

Getting this think going again. Some odd months before the install of my clutch, before even the exhaust work, a friends of mine had a big meet at his place. I helped install the URD fuel pump in one of my friends truck. It was also the first time that I got to see the install of the X-1. These people were a great bunch. Had a lot of fun that day.





Them getting into the exhaust cam gear swap.





That exhaust cam gear bolt was giving them hell!, I think someone left with a bloody knuckle after this... lol



My old friend MicPun's S/C'd XR.



Mike from NonStopTuning.com came out to help with pulley installs.





Lol. Scion tC with cold air intake....hahah

 

Looking at this picture, of the work done by "Toxic Fab", you will see that the Y-pipe to turbo tubing was one solid piece.



Watching the latest videos, you can see the exhaust trying to flex under heavy load from the torque of the turbo, when boost kicks in.

All of that flexing of rigid tubing was worrying me. Simply because everything was rigid. Something was going to give sooner or later. Along with that, flexing at the any of the flanges would inevitablty lead to exhaust leaks.

Any exhaust leaks prior to turbo means a loss of power.

Around this time, I had met a new company that had recently opened. Here in Houston. Called PowerFab Automotive. First thing was to add a stainless steel turbo lined flex coupling into the "catback".



Just looking between the two pictures, you can see it flexing a little bit.

 

The next step at the header to Y-pipe flanges, I was always combating leaks. You could see black exhaust leaks pouring out of each of those flanges. To try and prevent that, I had some custom copper gaskets made.



The reason that I had those made, is because the OEM gasket just kept blowing out. Copper gaskets are used for many different applications, and are much more durable than paper style gaskets. They also form very well to their mating surfaces.

Those would have worked, had they been a little thinned in thickness. Being just a little thicker than the OEM gaskets though, ended up causing the flange bolt tabs to bend downward when I was tighening them. So then those leaked as well. Fail.

 

Here is a better pic of the upgraded wastegate. Originally the kit came with the TiAL F38. After talking with TiAL, they informed me that that wastegate was to small for my setup. So when I had Toxic Fab do the first bit of exhaust work, I had them install the V44. It is a larger wastegate, and V-band flanged on both the inlet/outlet. Makes adjustment very easy, as you have 360 degrees of rotation.

I also had PowerFab install a nicer dump tube than before, with the F38, so that no moisture would collect inside the diaphragm of the wastegate like before.





One thing that I noticed was that at sustained 8 psi on the now modified STS kit, I kept running into problems with intake tubes blowing out of the couplings.

STS didn't put a bead line on the ends of any of the intake tubes. Turbo 101 right there. Fools.

To counter act their neglect, and my new problems, I added longer hose couplings, as well as upgraded to T-Bolt hose clamps. Far superior to the common worm gear style hose clamps.





I added those to every one of my intake couplings. Worked very well from that point forward.