TORSPD: NEVR

Progress on my turbo header is slow. Have to adjust the last weld that I did to match the bracket that I made for the prior exhaust. The jig worked perfectly, but apparently the jig is slightly off from my down-pipe. So rather than re-work the down-pipe, I'll re‐work the manifold. Grr. I'll get some photos tomorrow.

On the BRZ, it is a very tight fit. The location of the oil pressure sensor in this photo explains enough. No worky. Which lead to a cut and reweld. Which in turn became its own hurdle....



Those are the heater core outlets. I figure a quick angled cut, weld, and done. Nooope. That did happen, but the level of porosity, casting trash, and oil in those pores was so bad, that it made me question it I was working with something other than aluminum. I even test pieces to see if it was magnesium. With vinegar. The oil fumes and oil kept turning the weld area black and all bubbly. Had to spend about 5-10 minutes cooking the two parts with a torch to get the most of the junk out of the pores.

It certainly isn't pretty, but it will clear and hold pressure.



Next to figure out is what to do with the PCV port on the back of the intake manifold. Since it is resting on the other heater pipe.



Hopefully the engine/transmission combo will only have to come in/out no more than a couple more times. It gets a little closer each time though.

 

There are the ls low ram manifolds. Fast and other fabricated manifolds that should work.

 

I'll have to see if I can convince him.

 

Does he want a roadkill car or a nice car? We can do both. Lol

 

I like Roadkill, buuuuuuut he wants nice.

 

@Torspd do you think a 160 degree thermostat would be to cold for a 1GR

 

From this:



To this:



Worked on clearancing the intake manifold. As a test because if it can be reused, rather than purchasing a FAST manifold, that will save around $1300.



Trimmed off the rear area flat, in preparation for a plate.





The plate will get recessed holes in the mating side, so that it will rest flush against the plastic. Silicone will do the sealing. Including on the bolts' threads.

Then lastly, my truck's manifold. This prototype has been very time consuming and will not be used for future styles. The focus in this photo is that it is clamped to the support bracket of the previous manifold's flange. To match its angle. Meaning no change to the down-pipe.



The finished weld is there. Now to finally work on the cross-over portion.

 

In most cases, yes.

 

In regards to my engine. It will probably be a year before I add forced induction. I just need to buy a new thermostat and found a 170 or 160 kit and wasn’t sure if I should do one of those or just go with a stock one for now.

also, last week I was told that the ACL thrust bearings did not fit when they were putting my block together so they had to order OEM Toyota ones which delayed assembly another week. I will have to ask why and if it was the same interference that you had with your cleavite bearings. Could be a common theme with aftermarket thrust bearings.

 

For your sleeved block, the 160° may work for you. That is what I have in mine. I had to remove my aftermarket grill because it was blocking too much air flow for the sleeved engine with the OEM fan.

Interesting to hear that with the ACL thrust bearing.

 

I am using the Mishimoto direct OEM replacement 160°. For reference.

 

Plate finished and ready for silicone.

 

I ended up stumbling on this yesterday. It appears to be a pretty nice assembly. I bought it with the 180 degree t-stat and was thinking of running it like that for now unless you think I should just go 160 right out of the gate since yours is doing well at that temp. With the engine being sleeved I’m just concerned about it running hot under normal conditions even with a larger aluminum radiator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204422725395

 

Don't get that one. I have it.

 

that’s not good….what’s wrong with it? I ordered it yesterday

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-for-4-0l-1gr-fe.781648/page-10#post-28868996

 

well….that’s disappointing. I was really looking forward to getting that delivered tomorrow. Now to buy a new OEM Toyota t-stat.

 

Been busy with work to make any good progress on these projects. I did however try my hand at some 321 stainless pie cuts. They turned out good enough. I'll refine the angle more on any future ones that I make.

The 321 SS are on the left. Compared to one from www.StainlessBros.com on the right. Which is 304 SS.



Already mocked-up, so ready for welding.

 

What's the latest with your engine, @TacoLeeSD ?

 

pie cuts are lookin good!

They finally received the correct thrust bearings last week. Third times a charm. The ACL’s did not fit, Toyota 11011-31071 did not fit but last but not least Toyota part 11011-31040 did fit. Apparently the wall thickness ID to OD on the ACL and the first Toyota part were too thick. However the VIN number said 31071 should have worked.

I would have picked it up today but yesterday the timing marks were not lining up on the crank sprocket. I definitely ordered the correct part number but it was not right the only possibility is that it was mis-packaged. They reordered another crank sprocket and now everything lines up. I received a text from Motoiq today saying I can pick up next Friday.

here is a pic of the sprockets, the correct one is on the right



Pics of the timing with the wrong sprocket