TORSPD: NEVR

Is that an OEM bearing or what did you go with?

 

That's correct. However, typical GM you cannot easily access the bleed screw. Couple that with a swap, and the only way you'd access it without an remote line, is by cutting a hole in the trans tunnel. Not a bad idea with an access door, now that I think about it.

 

This is the teeny tiny hole that needs to he weld filled.

 

lookin good! That should do the trick.

 

Getting back to these fittings. The new ones arrived and are installed. They worked properly. No pictures of any of the new parts. I was in a mad dash to get this car back together and get is started.



The new TOB line was installed. Steel fittings, and nearly long enough to bleed yourself drom the driver's seat. Lol. Ordered it from https://www.fabbotfab.com/products/fabbot-tr6060-remote-clutch-bleeder

This was the only photo from Tuesday the 14th of Nov.



I had pulled the clutch and flywheel, to make sure that I had thoroughly applied loctite to the flywheel bolts. As I am not sure if the bolt holes in the crank are hollow and could leak oil.

Space constraints under the car were tight, as the transmission was only pulled away as far as possible, without removing it from the transmission jack. That meant that getting the clutch disk perfectly aligned was a challenge, even with the alignment tool.

There was roughly 1" left of gab between the bellhousing and the engine. It would not budge any closer. There was a super slight misalignment between the pilot bearing and clutch disk.

The solution: I installed the bellhousing bolts until the all snugged up. Bled the clutch, and those peddle pumps then allowed the clutch disk to move ever so slightly. The transmission then slid in flawlessly.

 

Bolted up the steering rack and everything else last night. Steering rack, drive shaft, passenger header, and intake.

Then swapped in the updated ecu. To verify if the throttle body would work. I had faith it would, and sure enough it did! 2nd problem fixed.

It was time for startup. I pulled the fuel pump relay, and cranked it over a good amount to get some oil circulation. Popped the fuel pump relay back in, expecting a short crank session to get fuel back to the rail. Turned into a long cranking session. Too long. No fuel was getting to the engine. WTH?! Check a couple of things, and no change...what now? Grrr.

Owner goes to fill up 5 gallons, since the tank was really low. To prevent a Roadkill scenario where the troubleshoot a non starting car, but failed to realize they were just out of fuel.

I disconnec the battery and reconnect, to see if that makes any changes. Nothing. Check plug for the electronics that I had just re-installed. Nothing. Two ground wires from the old OEM harness, tucked near and behind the battery called to me in modders whisper. Why not attach them loosely and see if anything changes. Now don't read this and think that "Well duh, that's obvious." I would have thought that too, except when we had it running before, those weren't needed. So yes, yes, it is obvious reading this post wise, that they needed to be on. And yes, the engine started and ran.

What's weird, is that they weren't needed to start the engine and have it run before, but now they were absolutely needed. What's also odd, is that the TB works without them attached. It has to be a programming change in the software.

The tach-o will not work without them, and CEL will be illuminated.

Either way, the engine sounds even better now that it can be revved. So I'll need to get a start-up and running video. Maybe even some drive-by vids, prior to having the exhaust made.

 

The sooner that I can finish this car, the sooner I can get to updating my Haltech tune on my truck, and start working on a 1GR turbo kit for @Lucario Runner .

Here it is. Sounds pretty gnarly. Had some foul spark plug wires. Replaced them after this video. Also, found that somewhere around the rear main is leaking out. Lame-O

https://rumble.com/v3wvofp-2019-brz-vette.html

 

No rush. Got another dumpster fire. Lol

 

Ours is weird. Grounding, and then we have to double start it. It always runs on the second start. Never on the first. Got to be something in the tune setup.

Glad though it wasn't a regulator issue with ours.

 

Saving this link to Wire Care, for later.

https://www.wirecare.com/

 

Hopefully he'll contract me to finish up the exhaust, but here is the current form. We found out during the shakedown that the 2nd gear synchronizer/s are were abused by the prior owner. Unfortunately. Project for another day though. Today was a celebration.

https://rumble.com/v3yhjl1-6.2l-ls3-subaru-brz-swap-first-shakedown.html

 

The video is cut short, as I learned that I needed to tame the teenage kid in his head, on our first trip out. He wanted to feel all of the acceleration of that power to weight ratio. I have known that feeling all to well. Everything tested out very well, minus 2nd gear.

 

That sucks, and I’m sorry to hear this, that’s the very reason I purchased a new manual transmission!

 

Sh!!!!t that sucks. I can only imagine the harsh to the Buzz of getting that buttoned up when you discovered the trans issue.

Launch in 3rd? Lol

 

He got the engine and transmission combo for 7k. To him it was too tempting to pass up at the time. Either way, it isn't a hard fix. Just needs to be dropped again.

With the Subi having either a 4.11:1 or 4.30:1 rear, yeah. You can easily do a 3rd gear launch. Releasing the clutch in 1st gear feels like driving a diesel tractor. Lol.

 

Is that a T-56 Trans in there?

 

It is the TR6060

 

I found the reason for the rear main leaking. My naiveté with the LS engines is what caused it. Never would have guessed that I would need an alignment tool for the rear main seal and plate.



https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H1w46....com&source_ve_path=MjM4NTE&feature=emb_title

 

Little updates on the BRZ. The owner purchased an M82 differential out of a Lexus IS300, that has a 3.73:1 ratio, but an open LSD. Took the two to Kozmic Motorsports for them to swap the gears out of it and into the BRZ diff with the BRZ LSD. That was yesterday, and he picks it up today. Very fast turn around!







If it weren't for the open style, the whole thing would swap right in.

We'll be dropping the transmission so that he can take the TR6060 to another local shop, so that they can repair the gears.

While those are out, we'll properly align the rear main seal plate with the Mr. Gasket alignment tool.







A axle-back exhaust from MBRP was ordered. Pretty nice looking. Once all of these puzzle pieces are back in order, I'll fabricate the y-pipe. I am quite excited about that.

https://www.mbrp.com/collections/s48043cf-mbrp-cat-back-exhaust-for-2019-subaru-brz-premium-2-0l