TORSPD: NEVR

Lots of Great information here man, keep up the good work.

 

Yet another evolution of what was to have been that way from the get go. You have very good ingenuity my friend.

 

Only through awareness of what others have/are using.

 

Thank you sir.

Don't remember if this is a duplicate pic or not, but it shows a few more of the T-Bolt hose clamps. This particular hose is anout 2" longer than the one that orignally came with the STS kit. That one would contiunally allow the tube, that has two hose clamps on it, blow out. Never had a problem after that.



During the install of the flex coupling, we (PowerFab and I) learned that the V-Band flange which was supposed to be male/female flanges, at the Y-pipe to catback connection, was actually two flush flanges. Not good for a seal. After all that work by the other place, they had installed a flange in an area that would leak.





After all of the leak fixing I was relentlessly trying to stop, it was very aggrevating. Only thing to do was put the proper V-Band flange on. It was a 2.5" Vibrant Performance V-Band flange. One side male, one side female. Creates a seemless, gasket-less seal.



^^^ That is at the end of the modified URD Y-pipe. If you pay close attention, you can also see a nice reduction in size. Right after the merge collector, before the flange.

Another angle of it. We also installed to more flex couplings into the Y-pipe. Just to have that extra assurance.



^^^ If you look to the top right of the Y-pipe as well as below, you can still see the factor style "football" flange. That would soon be replaced as well. All V_Banded out! Woot.

 

This is a pic from when PowerFab first opened. Brings back them memories.



Since then, they have done some pretty crazy stuff. I have seen a few rock crawlers and off-road rigs there, getting engine work, or aftermarket engine work done as well.

All installed.

Perfomed very well.



From this point, things were running pretty good, but war still having the header to y-pipe leaks. Practically was driving me crazy. It was time to finish the exhaust.

To keep things simple, we added a short piece of 304 ss tubing. 2.25" at the outlet of the collector. Then added the V-band flange to that. Turned out very nicely.







Did both side the exact same. Has to trim a little from the URD Y-pipe to make it fit properly.

The noticable difference then became that I could feel the power stay, as well, I could tell that it wasn't leaking out under boost. The massive sound from exhaust leaks were gone, and the truck performed much better.

 

Actually was a little bit out of time-line order with those latest pics. Those were actually after something catastrophic. Oh well. In there now.

Following the time-line right after the T-bolt clamps, it was time to make some more vids.

Having a competition with some other forum member, we decided to make some acceleration videos. To give a perspective of how fast our trucks were from a roll.

This is a 40-90ish (speedo is actually a bit slower due to 35"s) in second gear.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EO6gKje1Zvo&list=UUY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=15&feature=plpp_video

This one in 3rd, to show the difference between the two gears.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYgYBSSVhHs&list=UUY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=14&feature=plpp_video

This vid was after the new wastegate and dump tube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzVCh83m-Xw&list=UUY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=16&feature=plpp_video

 

In November of '09, I attended a meet called TexFest. It was awesome.

Some of you guys might have heard of XRU. Those people are the ones that put is together. Another form of truck, but still a lot of love for any type of modding.

Here are some pics from that event.









Ridin' dirty....lol



The day after mod-day. Track day..







Then at the Roll-Out, from the event.







During this event, we had quite a few sponsors from vendors. Most were more specialized towards the XR, but never the less, it was really cool. Gadget from URD attended. Gave quite the helping hand to many, as well as Mike from Non Stop Tuning.

3 days of modding and fun! It was a blast. The tradition has since been kept for the past three years.

 

What would all of those pictures be without some videos huh?

This one was a side angle of what would have been a pretty dang cool video. At the end though, the camera was hit, and didn't get any of the footage. Lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgdZ05iqc14&feature=player_embedded

I never once said that I was good at drag racing....This video shows. lol. Put me on a trail, or a track though, and watch out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06FT-QMGydo&list=FLY6smW2Tj-MhTiOTY5r8L8w&index=10&feature=plpp_video

 

Wow, sick man!

 

Thanks dude!

 

very impressive. great freaking job

 

Around that time I had also installed an oil catch can. That was a good learning experience on how to run the vacuum lines on a turbo setup. As I had no idea prior.

I don't have any pics of the first catch can I had, but I do have some of the second. Also, pictures of how NOT to install one when you have a turbo on your Tacoma.

The filter on the passenger side replaced the STS PCV valve. I am not exactly sure how that thing worked, nor do I really care. The reason I removed it was because it would squirt oil onto my passenger fender.

Easy fix. Install a catch can, and problem solved......Not so easy. So here are a few pics of the second can.



That blue hose goes from the nipple on the charge pipe, to the boost controller's solenoid. The filter was so that the PCV system could "breathe" in.

Here it is attached onto the driver side vacuum port on the intake manifold.



^^^Again, this routing of PCV hoses on a turbo is wrong, and will cause a huge vacuum leak. Making your truck run like crap.

Now, for N/A or S/C applications, this works fine minus the filter. That would be a hose routed back to the intake tube, after the MAF sensor.

On N/A and S/C : Fresh air gets metered by the MAF sensor, THEN part is circulated into the PCV system. Otherwise, into the passenger valve cover then out of the driver-side valve cover, into the intake manifold.

With the way I had set that up. I actually caused a HUGE vacuum leak! Since the engine was sucking air from that filter, that wasn't getting metered by the MAF sensor.

The purpose of an oil catch can is simple: Seperate the oil from the vapor in the PCV system, and catch it before it goes into the combustion chamber. Thus preventing burnt oil from building up on rings, pistons, valves, seals, and promoting better fuel efficiency over the life of the vehicle due to maintained compression... Especially important on boosted vehicles to help prevent pre-mature detonation.

Here is a pic of one installed on my girl's truck.

 

Stay tuned, the show continues... Gets a little worse, then it gets a little better, then it gets a little worse, then it gets better again...Lol

 

During the drag racing, my truck started acting a little strange. Half way down the track, it would lose power, and buck really bad, on the last run of the day. Coasted through the line. Keyed off, keyed on, and it work just fine. Figured it was a tuning issue, so Gadget and I did a little road tuning later that night. Woot.

Also at the track that day, a friend's truck ended up blowing out the stock clutch during one of his races. This is what it looked like.


This is the fly wheel side. Looks okay.



Heres the other side. which equals fail sauce.


and heres a closer look



That Sunday, after most had rolled out, the "Dream Team" went to wrenching.

Another guy had a his left over stock clutch from when he upgraded his, and was kind enough to let Mickey use it.

Took us 2 hours and 50 minutes to swap them out. Starting from the time we put it on jack stands. Freakin flying!



When Gadget and I were doing some datalogs, and going over the tune, we couldn't find anything wrong, minus a small fuel spike. Which only lasted an instant. The datalogs showed that everything else was fine though. Everything. Just for some strange reason, if I stayed in WOT for too long, my truck would buck and slow me down. Then pick right back up. Only sometimes though. Very odd....

 

Sub'd, I'ma read your build later when I have time

 

Yeah, it is Friday night. If I weren't staying in because I have to get up early for Coffee and Cars Houston tomorrow, I certainly wouldn't have time to be on here reading/typing as well. Lol.

They bring out some of the sickest cars.

 

Two months later ( approximately 6 months after built engine install), things went from Great to FML...

On the way to Austin one night, I was accelerating from a traffic light, and the truck lunged forward. I could barely accelerate. I looked in my rear view mirror. A huge cloud of white smoke covered both lanes.

My stomach sank.

Luckily I could still drive. So I drove it back home the next day. Checked over everything I could think of. I was hearing the strange slapping noise, and a large loss of power. After a week of checking the turbo components, I decided to look inside. I had a pretty bad misfire one day. That gave me a direction.

I swapped ECU's during the trouble shooting process; injectors, swapped in new spark plugs due to the misfire which caused this:



The porcelain had been cracked off of the #6 cylinder's plug. The left one.

More time went by and tried more things. Put a stethescope to the block to rule out rod knock or not. Wasn't that. Did a compression test. All cylinders were within 10% of each other. Still nothing....

 

Even took the truck to Toyota, and had their master tech take a look at it. He was stumped...

After about a month of this crap going on, my friend Grumpy was able to borrow a Bore-scope, so we could look and see if there was anything going on in the cylinders...



And the gremlin showed itself...



Half of cylinder #6, from the side closest to the firewall around to the driver side fender is scarred up very badly. I wasn't sure why that had happened at the time. The strange thing about that was that even though the sleeve liners were in obviously bad shape, it wasn't burning oil, or running extremely rich, due to a lack of combustion. Then again, the compression test showed that the compression was good. The only reason I can think that I had good compression, and was still able to drive around was that I was running an oil weight of 20w-50. Thick enough to keep the compression.

During that time frame of about a month to diagnose the problem, my gut feeling told me it was going to be a worst case scenario when I did find the problem. So I had called up John at LC Engineering, and had him find me a low mileage used engine. From that point, it was build process for TORSPD 2.0.


NOTE*** Had I done a leak down test the same time I had done the compression test, it would have immediately told me that there was a problem with the rings.
Sooo much winnn ..... :/

 

Holy smokes!

 

All of that was on 1-18-10.

I waited for confirmation from LCE that they had the new block, and that is was in good condition for a fresh build. By 1-29-10, I had mine out and ready for inspections.

















Here is a close up of cylinder #6. At BDC. Check out the scoring on the thrust surface of the sleeve liner.



Then at TDC. You can see where the piece of the spark plug had bounced off of the piston.





Cylinders 4 and 6.



And the passenger side. It actually had much less damage than the driver side.




Got late that night. So put up for the night.