TORSPD: NEVR

If Texas wasn't so far away from Montana I would be there. Lol.

Luckily this build is short, since I haven't finished it yet. Makes it quicker to read through.

I eventually decided to run the ProEFI Pro128. We worked out all of the bugs, and it works better than the other three that I had. UniChip, Map-Ecu2, and X-1.

I just recently picked up a throttle body from another member. That way I can send it out so that ProEFI can Map it. Currently, the stock ECU controls the throttle body, which means that the factory speed cut is still in place. Once mapped though, I will have full control, and be able to do some pretty nifty tuning with it.

Whenever you have questions about tuning, just let me know.

 

Stuff like "factory speed cut" on the throttle body is what I mean haha, still out of my range of knowledge but I'm learning.

 

When the factory ECU receives a voltage that equates to the factory limit for speed, the ECU will then close the throttle body to prevent further acceleration. I.E. speed cut. Since we have throttle by wire (electric throttle body), Toyota uses that as the means to slow these trucks down. There are other forms as well.

For this vehicle, controlling the electronics of the throttle body is one way to remove the speed cut. Another is to go to a cable throttle body. A bit more intensive than the previous.

 

THATS how we're speed governed?? Cause I've been wanting to remove the governor without getting rid of my rev limiter, I was talking to a TRD tech at a dealership and he told me it was in the computer and that I'd have to call URD because of my Piggyback and get them to help me. I just haven't done it yet. On my long list.

 

Sdxrunner619, on XRU, also has another way to defeat the governor. He has a kill switch for the signal that the ECU receives for speed. When he gets near the governor limit, he flips the switch and can speed on past the governor.

Simple and effective, but not pretty.

 

Why do I think that would also cut out the speedometer signal...

 

So going back to post #153:

"During those runs, I was checking my tune, and noticed some things were a little off. My AFR's were a little rich. Mid 10's. Too rich. So my GF and I made plans to come back out and do some road tuning the next weekend.

The weekend of the 21st of '11, we encountered another issue. So much so, that I had to get towed home. My truck wouldn't stay started. It kept getting a MAF sensor CEL. Tried swapping with my friend's. No difference.

Then the next day after work, my girl and I found the problem. We plugged back up the factory harness, without the Map_Ecu2, and bam. The engine cranked right up. Idled perfectly.

Basically the Map-Ecu2, had failed. Then main problem with that, was that the company that made the Map2, had discontinued the Map2. They were in the process of building the Map3.

So my search for a new EMS started."

Originally, I had my eye on on the Haltech Platinum 1000. Then the 2000.


Well, upon doing some more indepth research, I learned something that troubled me. None of the Universal Haltech units would control a Throttle By Wire throttle body.

That is what our trucks have. What that would mean, is that the stock ECU would still have full control of the throttle body. If I was trying to do anything that required going over the factory speed governor, then the OEM ECU would still be able to close the throttle body and limit my speed. So with the Haltech EMS', the only way around that would be to add in a cable throttle body.

Not something that I was keen on doing at all. The search continued..

 

I'm going to just leave this here.

 

Mmmm.....Eye candy.

 

win.
and you have a pm...

 

Got it sir, thank you very much. Will respond shortly.

 

We're gonna need more pics brutha Tor.....

 

........LOADING.........LOADING.........

 

I want to go over this in more detail than did before. Quoted from a previous page,

"I found them after doing a lot of searching for Toyota MAF sensor flanges. Since I had so much trouble with turbulance on the STS setup, I was determined to fix that. www.Treadstoneperformance.com offers the flange already welded to the tube, as well as offer a honeycomb flow straightener. That was perfect!

The honey comb insert was on back order at the time, so it will be here a little later. What it will do is help to minimize any air turbulance over the MAF sensor, so that it won't get crazy readings.



End quote"

During my time being rear mount turbo'd, I always had strange issues now and then whether at idle or in various rpms of cruising. Part of that was a vacuum leak, due to the way I had my PCV hoses run. Once I fixed that though, I still had issues.

Took a lot of research and talking with people to figure it out. As well as looking at many different turbo kits, and manufacturers' cars.

It basically came down to the fact that I was getting a lot of turbulence of air flow across my MAF sensor.

The spinning of the air from the turbo, as well as the bends in the tubing prior to the MAF would make the idle surge. Or truck sputter in certain load/RPM ranges.

The research made me find that a screen or filter was necessary to straighten that flow. On some American cars, the come factory with the screen for the MAF because of a similar issue without one.

This is what mine looks like before and after install.





That was one of my biggest concerns when I decided to move towards a front mount setup. Turbulence + MAF = BAD

Once the install of the new intercooler was complete, the truck ran immediately better.

 

The last week of March '11, leading into the first weekend of April '11, was a constructive one.

The guys at www.HorsepowerFreaks.com directed me to a company called www.PROEFI.com, since I was looking for an EMS that could control throttle by wire.

So I talked with them. They have two standalone EMS's, which are very capable.

The Pro128, and the Pro48. Being that I needed the ability to control our electronic throttle body, that ruled out the 48.

They asked me to find out what the timing pattern was for my engine, so that they could say 'Yes', or 'No' on if their ems would work.

Got some help from some friends, and the information they needed. It was then a solid 'YES'.

Then the long process of waiting came into play at that point. If any one wants to read further on that subject, here is the link:http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42924

The other things that took place were this: I added in a 50 psi rated check valve to the brake booster line. It is a long time coming, and highly necessary. Finally found this one from www.treadstoneperformance.com . I have seen to many build that have had these, to prevent forced air going into the brake booster, and so forth. As well as bad stories from high boosted apps. Felt it had been long enough.



That is a necessary component. Very Necessary on ANY PRE-Throttle body forced induction. That refers to turbos or centrifical superchargers.

The effects of low boost on the brake booster might not cause any problems for quite some time. Just depends on the durability of the unit. However, being that it wasn't designed to ever see boost, you can see how a problem can easily arise. Especially the more the boost is raised. BE WARNED.

 

Pulled into PowerFab, here in town, (www.powerfabautomotive.com) to start the work of fabricating my front mount turbo kit.

One thing to make clear, is that it was not me just saying,"Here is some money and my parts. Build me a kit." I envisioned the plan, and worked side by side with their fabricator to make sure that it was built as much as my way as was possible. Within reason of their expertise.

Luckily, I still had the original turbo that came with the STS kit, so we were able to use it for mock up. Save some time and hassle.

Pulled in and pulled off the passenger DT header....





The mock-up turbo.



Here is the merge collector in very early mock-up.



I can tell you all, that the v-band flanges I purchased from www.Reidwashbon.com, although more expensive, are much nicer than the Vibrant V-band flanges. PowerFab agreed. For the average build, the Vibrant V-Band flanges would be just fine, but if you are going to the lengths of getting all tubing transitions, with the least amount of flow restrictions, this other brand is the way to go (name secret for the time being.)

Here is the turbo being used to help out with placement. Used an engine hoist to aid in the effort.



All pre-turbo stainless tubing is 16 gauge 321 stainless steel. Thick, stronger than 304, higher temp capability than 304, and contains titanium as well. 347 welding rod is used to weld it together. Being that my eventual goal is high whp and wtq, I want top quality steel.

 

This is once the collector is tacked up to the flange, prior to being fully welded. That way we could check clearances, and figure out the placement for the wastegate tube.

I had Cameron weld some beads on the inside, as well as around the outside of the T4 flange.




This is a fairly crappy pic, but you get the idea....lol



No wastegate tube installed yet, but this was right before we figured that part out.

So that pretty much concluded Phase 1 of this project. The next phase will be the cross-over tubing, and the down pipe. I wanted to get the hardest part out of the way first. Every thing else should come together much more quickly now. I still need to order a few more pieces of tubing, and another flange. Then all that is left to be up and running with boost, is the Pro EFI.....

So back to normal for the time being.....

 

Damn that set-up is off the chains brutha......When you run outta room with the 1GR you gonna go 2JZ?

 

I haven't put much thought into the 2JZ, to be honest. I am not certain, but don't know if there are adapter bell housings for a 2JZ to a T56 transmission. If there are, then a 2JZ is a future possibility if and only if the engine I am currently having built, decided to fail.

Seeing as i have a T56 though, the easiest option would be to put a nice LSX in there. It will practically bolt right up.

Currently though, as much as I have invested into the build in progress engine, it should last a loooong time. I am building it to be more capable that what I am going to push out of it.

 

I'm staying below limits of stock built, can't afford to go further at the moment.

One day