TORSPD: NEVR

notice the rallyfighter isn't blowing wheels off of the other trucks in it's class. a standard double or single triangulated 4 link has fewer limitations, as well as requires less reinforcing, since all 4 links are anchored in the same area on the truck, whereas with a watts, you have to reinforce the rear frame sections more than notmal to prevent frame rail spreading. not too much of an issue on a tube shasis, but it can cause issues in closer to stock aplications. less agressive applications/designs also like to bind with higher travel or articulation numbers.

 

your right but I've never seen one race either i know they do, they run the watts link instead of a panhard bar in the rear which is a 4 link suspension just not sure what type

 

The older suspensions have a watt's. I believe the newer ones are a single triangulated 4-link. Have a couple of friends that work for the local LOCAL MOTORS.

 

higher speed race trucks typically run triangulated 4 links (couple different styles), that eliminate the need for a panhard bar. benefit of a panhard is that you have as much articulation as your joints will allow. race trucks, wanted as much vertical travel as possible, can't effectively run a panhard style 4 link, because at 3 feet of suspension drop, the axle would have moved substantially towards one side of the truck.

 

Why not IRS?

 

step up your game mark.......

 

Is that the infamous 22B?

 

Adds additional material and weight.

I have the Calvert Racing Caltracs. Eliminated all of that nasty wrap.

You already know.

Exactly why I don't want a panhard bar.

 

Need more power? Stack another.

 

beats me. just some facebook porn.

with the minimum amount of suspension travel you will have/use, you wouldn't experience any of the negatives of a panhard 3 or 4 link. however, since you aren't wheeling, you also wouldn't see any of the benefits from one.

 

I could run that, if I wasn so low

 

The benefit of that panhard bar, prevent lateral movement is definitely there. Robert's 4Runner and Kevin's XR prove that. I just don't like it's circular motion.

Thus my idea. No real additional parts added, and will significantly reduce the lateral movement. It is so simple that it is nearly genius.

 

x brace between your two traction bars?

 

Forgot about that. Yeah. Even with a 1 hole bracket, it would be quite close to the ground.

 

Yeah, I was all excited for about two seconds. Then I googled . I'm already scrapping my hangers and pretty sure my leaf perches are maybe 2-3 inches off the ground. My shock bolts line up with the inside of my 18's......

 

somebody say stacked rotors?
http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/11/sixth-dimension-the-ppre-6b-mazda-rx-4/

 

813 horse, on pump, without forced induction......

 

Just added this to the Oil Catch Can Installation thread.

Made some changes to my current can, as I still haven't installed the Draft42 can.

Tapped the threads on the valve cover to fit 3/8" NPT. So that I could add a push lock -8AN fitting to it.



Both sides are now -8AN inlets, with a breather outlet.




To top it off, some foam padding for an isolation pad.

 

Need to get some PTFE fittings and hose, then my new fuel filter will be ready for install. This is a truly capable fuel filter. 4-5 micron filtration, and every fuel compatible.



Lastly, my OEM axle shaft. Bare naked and waiting to be shipped out.

 

getting the axle dimensioned out?