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Toyota Oil Filter (Made in Thailand) vs. the competition........

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Nov 15, 2010.

  1. Apr 16, 2014 at 5:32 AM
    #601
    jahjah

    jahjah New Member

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    Fram advertising has been very effective. Unfortunately, their filter aren't.
    I have seen several that were assembled so hastily that the ends of the filter element was not attached.
    Now they have designer filters to create a "premium purchasing experience" by getting people to think that a high mileage or synthetic oil engine needs a different filter.
    Fram banks on the fact that oil contaminants slowly wear out engines in a manner that is essentially impossible to quantify on a small sample basis. How many engines that Fram wears out early equals the loss of a complete power unit?
    Basically, it comes down to the fact that frequent oil changes are a better deterrent to wear than the best filters because the change removes abrasive contaminants and corrosive chemical from the engine.
    If your school board is going to support a filter, why not support one that costs the same but filters well?
    Some filter brands are being made in China now, including Fram. It is nearly impossible to maintain a quality control program in a Chinese factory.
     
  2. Apr 18, 2014 at 2:18 AM
    #602
    ZEROPILOT

    ZEROPILOT Can't re-MEMBER

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  3. May 11, 2014 at 9:10 PM
    #603
    MrDFixIt

    MrDFixIt Member

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    This is an EXCELLENT thread and write-up on the topic.

    I am fairly certain that if you open the Wix "XP" variety of the 51348 you will find that it is identical to the Amsoil brand filter with the synthetic media.

    Again, GREAT job on this!
     
  4. May 11, 2014 at 9:23 PM
    #604
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Yup.... Amsoil is Wix.
     
  5. Jun 28, 2014 at 5:42 PM
    #605
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    ^So are napa filters if anybody hasn't already said it.. Just drop the 5 from the wix number and there you have the napa number. 1348.
     
  6. Aug 12, 2014 at 5:57 AM
    #606
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    A link to this thread has been posted in many other forums, including the Rav4 and a Tundra forums in addition to Bobistheoilguy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2014
  7. Aug 12, 2014 at 6:03 AM
    #607
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    For what it's worth, the bitog thread includes a post showing a graph comparing efficiency ratings of some of these filters including the Toyota. While the 100% synthetic filters achieve a 99% rating, the Toyota has a disappointing 51% rating. Looks and amount of material are one thing. Engineering, the molecular composition of the media, and actual tested performance are another. My gut tells me to stick with the M1 EP but I've ordered the Toyota from Amazon anyway just to compare the two.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2014
  8. Aug 14, 2014 at 7:28 PM
    #608
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    showphoto.php/photo/420981/cat/500][​IMG][/url]

    gallery/showphoto.php/photo/420980/cat/500][​IMG][/url]

    The Toyota filter may have more filtering media as spread out and measured in square inches, but the M1 has almost 30% more mass. Both filters are brand new out of the box. The M1 weighs 336 grams. The Toyota weighs 269 grams. I can't say whether the difference is in the canister wall, the metal components, or the filtering media. However, the M1 is smaller in size but it weighs almost 30% more.

    If you watch Chris's videos, you'll notice that the Toyota filtering media appears as if it's foam, whereas the M1 appears to be very tightly packed synthetic material. There was a noticeable difference and it's what prompted me to weigh them. Also, the Toyota's gasket is a string compared to the thick and wide one on the M1.

    After removing the factory installed Toyota filter, it stuck inside the Assenmacher socket wrench (filter end) I used to remove it. Using very light taps with a rubber mallet against the edge of the gasket, to dislodge it from the filter, the Toyota filter's outer wall dented significantly.

    I ordered the Toyota filter after watching the videos and reading the many posts in response. I don't mean any disrespect to anyone, especially Chris who I hold in very high regard. However, I'm sticking with the M1 and I have no plans to ever use this Toyota one I ordered from Amazon with the socket. The difference in design and quality is pretty obvious to me.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2014
  9. Aug 14, 2014 at 7:31 PM
    #609
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Thicker metal in the base. First thing I noticed when I took them apart. The Toyota filtering media is synthetic, and higher quality than the M1.
     
  10. Aug 14, 2014 at 7:48 PM
    #610
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    Looking at them now. You're right about the base.
     
  11. Aug 14, 2014 at 8:07 PM
    #611
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    There's an Amsoil efficiency comparison chart floating around on other sites. Here it is.

    gallery/showphoto.php/photo/420985/cat/500][​IMG][/url]
     
  12. Aug 15, 2014 at 6:43 AM
    #612
    jahjah

    jahjah New Member

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    The Toyota filter should be used if concern about Warranty issues is important since there can be no claim by Toyota that an inferior filter was used. The capacity of the filter as vaguely implied by the element square footage and weight is irrelevant unless you intend to use the filter well beyond the suggested oil change interval. Even if the element weighed ten times a much, it would not necessarily filter fine particle better. The Toy filter simply does not filter fine particles as well as a Hastings or Purolator Pure One or a number of other filters as evidences by the visual contaminants in the oil during a regular oil change duration. The actual specs for how much debris is captured for each pass of the oil at each micron size from one micron up is not available for most filters but is for the Hastings and Pure One. If the difference is not apparent to you, throw on a new Toy filter for a day after your oil has become dark using the Toy filter for 4-5K. Then throw on a Hastings filter for a day. Empirical. Nevertheless, even this visual evidence of contaminants does not necessarily correlate with more engine wear. The only unquestionable position is to avoid Fram filters that are so poorly made that the element is sometimes detached. Also, Fram does not seem to know in their database which cars require an anti-drain back valve and the absence of one on some vehicles means the engine partially loses prime every time it is shut down. Most people will not notice that their oil pressure light stays on longer when starting. The capacity of a filter that influences operation of the bypass filter can be of concern to people that want to run their oil for an extended period of time. The attempt to do this is a false economy because when the additives are added to do this, the cost becomes comparable to buying discounted synthetic oil at Costco on sale. Recycled oil is most often put to lesser uses so the desire to use less does have an environmental aspect to it even when synthetics are being used.
     
  13. Aug 15, 2014 at 7:08 AM
    #613
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    The color of the oil is due to the oil holding contaminants suspended, thus being removed when drained. The oil is filtered before it circulates thru the engine.
     
  14. Aug 21, 2014 at 6:18 AM
    #614
    SpacemanSpiff

    SpacemanSpiff Well-Known Member

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    Of course an Amsoil filter is going to be on top of THEIR OWN chart. :rolleyes:
     
  15. Aug 21, 2014 at 6:25 AM
    #615
    DrFunker

    DrFunker PhD, DVM, MPH, MS, MMA, Esq, XYZ, 123, blahblah

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    What a great write up. Thanks Chris.
    :thumbsup:
     
  16. Aug 25, 2014 at 9:48 PM
    #616
    weezer

    weezer Well-Known Member

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    i used the orange fram filters from walmart on my 1st gen for 300k miles with no problems.

    just saying.

    i use the toyota filter on my 2nd gen now.

    vw beetles didn't even have oil filters back when they were made. the early ones. they just had a metal screen inside the bottom of the crankcase that you cleaned out during an oil change.

    i'm not so sure what brand of filter you use even matters to be honest. the main thing is change the oil and filter at least every 5000 miles. your piston rings will be worn out and you will be burning through oil alot before the engine fails due to the brand of oil or brand of filter that you use.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2014
  17. Aug 26, 2014 at 2:14 AM
    #617
    DrFunker

    DrFunker PhD, DVM, MPH, MS, MMA, Esq, XYZ, 123, blahblah

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    Ditto, used Fram on my 1st gen too.
    Seeing what is inside them from Chris's write up got me thinking to use the OEM ones. I found a good price on them by the case of 10. So, I figured, why not?
     
  18. Aug 27, 2014 at 2:39 PM
    #618
    JHart94949

    JHart94949 Well-Known Member

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    Just tried the K&N for the first time as it was on special at O'Reillys with 5qts of Royal Purple. Wishing I would have used a Toyota filter now.
     
  19. Sep 3, 2014 at 12:37 PM
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    Neonrt3

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    I come from the neon world (www.neons.org). Most of what I've seen relates mostly to that car/engine. However I've met some very insightful engineers as a result. I didn't read the whole thread, I've been through doing this myself 10+ years ago for that forum as well.

    http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/

    This is a resource that we used. Most people don't realize that there are only a few oil filter manufacturers in the world. Things change and change often.

    I'll use what I know, Mopar, their filters have been bid out many times over the years. If there is old stock laying around, it might be from an old Manuf. or a new one. Usually one can tell the Manuf. by the holes on top of the filter, or the general construction. I know I can tell a champion labs filter by looking at the top of the filter.


    Along those same lines... the engineers I know (They raced, they wanted to know as much as they could..) did flow tests, particle tests etc.. There were better filters to use then Mopar, one constant was the purolator Pure one (concidently, the same filter listed in this thread elsewhere for the Toyota), Mobile 1 and K&N were not as high on the list... One of the other best filters? The Champion labs STP/Champion/Bosh filter. Low cost, good filtering, good construction.

    You can take it for what its worth.. my info, while somewhat dated, is what I still use. I have both Purolator Pure one filters, Wix (and by way of that Microgaurd(( Orileys house brand is now Wix too)) and I'll buy the STP/Champion labs filters when I can (I still have a Neon or two in my stables, makes it nice not having to get two different filters!)

    Just adding what info *I* have learned over the years to the collective.
     
  20. Sep 4, 2014 at 4:56 AM
    #620
    SpacemanSpiff

    SpacemanSpiff Well-Known Member

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    This kind of reminds me of that joker who claimed to be a fram rep.
     

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