Toyota Oil Filter (Made in Thailand) vs. the competition........

after talking with the seller I am sure these are legit filters coming from a legit auto shop in LA, but I was thinking the same thing. If they were before they started putting stickers on the filters (which when I do a google search looks like as far back as 2006-2008 time frame) then I rather have a filter that hasn't been sitting around for 7-8 years going into my truck. I am sure they would be fine but I rather not take the risk of even 1 of the 10 being "bad" and maybe having deteriorating filter media or dried out rubber gasket. Oh well they are getting shipped back.

 

Methinks the best way to measure the performance of an oil filter, is how small of microns it can filter, verses the pressure/flow loss. Of course, the better the filtering, the more restrictive it would become, but what the "sweet spot" is, I dont know. Im sticking with the factory OEM filter.

 

Thanks to Chris for all the cut away and comparison info.

One thing I noticed in the first video showing the Toyota filter internals, and no one commented on in the comments I read, is that the Toyota filter doesn't have end caps. I couldn't tell by the video or images, but I presume the pleats are glued together at each end. Everyone always gives Fram crap, and I'm not defending them, but I was surprised by the fact that the Toyota filter doesn't have end caps at all. I thought it would be a bigger concern to people, considering that people really hate Fram filters for their cardboard end caps.

Has anyone else thought about this? In general, I really like the media surface area of the Toyota filter. I haven't seen any SPE (single pass efficiency) or Micron specs on the Toyota filter, but with very good efficiency and good surface area of the Mobil 1 M1-209, I think it's going to be my filter. There are filters out there with better SPE, but they are really short/low on media surface area. I like the idea of high efficiency, with large surface area to combat restriction caused oil bypass. I really don't like the idea of oil bypass! I have not seen any specs on bypass pressures or testing of spring types, hence my preference for a filter with a large media surface area.

 

I get the k&n, two sizes larger than recommended.

 

Denso's aftermarket filter P/N 150-1003 has been replaced by P/N 150-2010, now made in China. Dissection by rustypigeon on BobIsTheOilGuy shows good build quality, though like the 150-1003 before, it lacks the design innovations of the made-for-Toyota filter:

 

If only I had seen this thread 24 hours ago. I changed my oil yesterday and Put a Fram filter on it. I noticed it being shorter than the OEM filter that was on it. Guess I need to go by Napa or the dealership and and get one to swap it out with.

 

Well hell!!! I have a 5 quart jug and a single quart of Royal Purple synthetic oil in my closet with a Royal Purple oil filter ready to go for my next oil change. Needless to say I'm not going to toss a filter I paid money for but on the next oil change after that. It's going to be a Toyota oil filter for sure

 

How long is the Toyota filter good for between oil change intervals? I use Royal Purple oil and need a filter that will still be good till I change my oil again.

 

I Change the oil every 5k.

Personally I don't care to extend that as its not a huge expense in order to safeguard.

Even if you bought oil and wanted to run 10k or 15k on the oil personally I would change the filter at 5k. If you buy the toyota filter by the case at either a good dealer or online they are about $4.50 each so 15 bucks in 15k without a risk or question.

 

6k-8k

 

I don't understand how you can change the filter without changing the oil at the same time? What do you do? Just not take out the oil drain plug but take the filter off?

 

yep, on the v6 models its a simple process to catch the oil from the filter and return it through the filler cap, then attach a new filter

 

10,000 miles on mobil 1

10,000 miles on oem filter

like clockwork. engine should outlive me [save for gaskets (maybe) and waterpump (maybe)]

18 year old 5vzfe runs terrific on this schedule

 

Yep prime the filter and throw it on. The oil stays in the pan, and since its on top its easy access.

You do need to check the oil level after your start her up. You loose a very small amount changing the filter. However in 15k you should be checking anyway because the engine will use some as well.

There are only 3 things to worry about.
-dirty oil
-oil breaking down (time or life)
-running low on oil (use or loss)

With some modern synthetic oils the life is crazy if it stays clean, the oil doesn't break down like dino juices. I believe that.

However I don't believe any filter is good for much longer than 5k or so. There are larger filters than could stretch that, but how much bigger do you want? The standard yota filter is cheap enough and easy enough to change.

 

Higher mileage engines tend to contaminate the Dino or syn oil with fuel much easier and quicker,,just sayin.

Your oil filter is just a particle grabber for the most part. It does not scrub the fuel contamination out.

5-6K would be max mileage between oil changes for me,,with any oil.

 

Great info

 

I was LOL at your opening post. That stupid emogee with the wide eyes and your ridiculous sarcasm - OMG you ARE funny.

Dude you're giving us some useful (very) info, delivered with a great sense of humor. I am SO glad I went fishing around this forum before my first oil change. The way I read your results, it's a no brainer to go OEM for the filter. I am pleased they do a decent job of protecting their own handiwork. You really put a lot time into these filter comparos and I thank you.

I only wish I hadn't spent the money on Amsoil filters for my Honda CBR1000RR for the last 4 or 5 oil changes. I imagine Honda also makes a superior OEM oil filter as well, and I will be using Honda filters for the bike too from now on.

My impression always has been, "...synthetic oil lasts much longer, and OEM filters are designed for dinosaur oil. If I use an OEM filter and let it stay on there for my typical 7-8K syn change interval (Tacoma, that is) then the OEM filter can't handle that."

But your comparo has me rethinking all that shite. On the motorcycle I won't go THAT long, but I'll let it come close to 5K. Mostly cause I don't always beat it, and the oil is EXPENSIVE, YO! $60 or so for a gal jug.

 

Is that on the stock original Toyota oil filter or the filters you guys have been talking about that are a size or two larger than stock size oil filter from Toyota

 

I like the Fram XG3614, very solid for the $6.43, but I want to try other oversized filters like the OEM.
Fram XG3600 at Walmart for $7.56, Motorcraft FL400 is $3.79 at Walmart, the Napa Gold 1516 is $6.69 and the Purolator PL20195 is $7.29 at Advance Auto, Wix 51516 at O'reilly's for $6.49, Bosch 3422 for $6.49 at Autozone. I heard Purolator makes the Motorcraft but unsure if there are any differences in the actual filters.


For those interested, as I didn't see many of these tested in original thread thought its time to add those that are missing. To compare regular size filters to the OEM toyota isn't fair and most auto parts lookup don't show you the oversized equivalents. I found the parts numbers on this thread: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2099378