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Toytec Ultimate/LR UCA Install Today - Tips?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by BGrutter, Jul 9, 2011.

  1. Jul 9, 2011 at 7:14 AM
    #1
    BGrutter

    BGrutter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Baron
    Kansas City, MO
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    2010 4x4 DCSB TRD OR
    Rear-View Camera Mod, Anti-theft Tailgate, No Mud-Flaps, Diff Breather Mod, Color-matched Mirror/Handle covers, Front Valance mod, Phone/GPS/Camera mount, and Illuminated 4x4 Switch ToyTec Ultimate Lift Light Racing UCAs
    I know this has probably been discussed a million times. However, I struggled to find any useful threads. If I've missed one, please feel free to link it to me.

    So, I'm beginning my installation of my new lift and UCAs this afternoon with a buddy of mine. I've installed lifts before, but on completely different vehicles ('94 Ranger & '02 Liberty).

    • I was wondering if anyone had any tips on things to look for during the install.
    • Also, wondering if there are any specific tools that I NEED or would just be really helpful.
    • Any specific notes about swapping out UCAs during the install (since they are two overlapping installs)?
    • Should I tweak the alignment to make it driveable?
    • I plan to wait till Monday when my wheels/tires arrive to have my alignment done at the same time as mount/balance. Would it be best to just get it aligned and then return for the mount/balance on Monday?
    • Any other notes/tips?

    Thanks a lot. I appreciate the community's assistance.
     
  2. Jul 9, 2011 at 7:20 AM
    #2
    Dr. Pepper

    Dr. Pepper Well-Known Member

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    Don't have any tips, but goodluck and post pics sir!
     
  3. Jul 9, 2011 at 11:08 AM
    #3
    Mountaineer

    Mountaineer Member

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    I just went through this about 4 months ago. I put on an OME lift with LR UCAs.

    I used a pitman arm puller to separate the upper ball joint. I purchased new UCA bolts (the long ones) so I just loosened them and cut them off. If you go this route, a Sawzall would do wonders. If you are reusing the bolts then there are some threads where folks talk about bending the sheet metal at the front of these to allow removal.

    If you set the adjustment to 0 and all the way out (in the instructions) it will get you close enough for driving. I did it this way and ran for ~ 3 months waiting on tires / wheels. I had a little camber but my caster was in the 2.7-3.1 range with only minor toe issues. I really didn't have any driveability issues.

    Good luck.
     
  4. Jul 10, 2011 at 12:37 AM
    #4
    BGrutter

    BGrutter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2010 4x4 DCSB TRD OR
    Rear-View Camera Mod, Anti-theft Tailgate, No Mud-Flaps, Diff Breather Mod, Color-matched Mirror/Handle covers, Front Valance mod, Phone/GPS/Camera mount, and Illuminated 4x4 Switch ToyTec Ultimate Lift Light Racing UCAs
    I should have read this more closely. My friends and I were stumped when we saw the long bolt. Couldn't figure out how we would get it out. And if we had cut it, can't imagine how we would have gotten a new one back through. I decided to bail on swapping UCAs for now. I'll just pay the shop that's doing my alignment to take care of it.

    Ran into a few hiccups. Other than the UCAs, the front went rather smoothly.

    Had a hell of a time getting the new centering pins in the leaf springs. Should have just cut an inch to begin with.

    Also, with the rear axle shim in place, there really isn't much of any penetration of the center pin into the recess on the axle housing. Made us all a bit weary of potential alignment problems.

    Getting the rear shocks off wasn't exactly simple, but we managed. HOWEVER, getting the new ones attached STILL has me puzzled. I have no idea how to keep the rod from spinning when tightening the top nut. As of right now, it's basically finger-tight. PLEASE HELP ME if you know what I've missed.

    Other than that, I just need to rent a grinder for the front pinch-weld and so that I can trim the center for my bump-stops to re-attach

    Thanks again for everyone's help.
     
  5. Jul 10, 2011 at 11:02 AM
    #5
    Mountaineer

    Mountaineer Member

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    BGrutter - When I installed my rear AAL I just followed Chris4x4's sticky (at the top of the Suspension and Lift section) on how to do it and it went very smooth. I loosened the brake line bracket from the axle to allow it to drop enough to put the centering pin in. Didn't have much trouble. Cut it off with a hack saw.

    I didn't install shims but others have had the same concerns as you on engagement of the centering pin head. I think by the time you torque everything up (and retorque your u-bolts after ~ 500 miles) you should be fine.

    I have the OME rear shocks and there is a small flat on the top of the rod, just above where the threads start for the nut. Just put a wrench on this to hold while you tighten the nut.

    FWIW, on my lift (885s with only the trim packer for taco lean) I'm running 285's on 17x9 rims and I've only had to do minor trimming of the plastic in order to avoid rubbing. My caster is at ~ 2.7 and the lift is fairly new but I would be surprised if you would have to do much grinding unless you are preparing to do some serious off-roading, at which point chopping the cab mount is in your future.
     
  6. Jul 10, 2011 at 11:09 AM
    #6
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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  7. Jul 10, 2011 at 9:04 PM
    #7
    BGrutter

    BGrutter [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Baron
    Kansas City, MO
    Vehicle:
    2010 4x4 DCSB TRD OR
    Rear-View Camera Mod, Anti-theft Tailgate, No Mud-Flaps, Diff Breather Mod, Color-matched Mirror/Handle covers, Front Valance mod, Phone/GPS/Camera mount, and Illuminated 4x4 Switch ToyTec Ultimate Lift Light Racing UCAs
    Thanks guys. Not sure why a simple spacer (or possibly just a properly sized lock-washer) didn't occur to me for the center pin.

    I figured out the trick to the rear shocks after some searching here. The original shocks had that flattened end on the shock pistons. However, the Billi's have a slot for a 5mm allen wrench. I suppose the fact that we were finishing up at around 1am was why we missed that detail. That and the fact that there were NO INSTRUCTIONS!!!

    There's a point for future readers, PRINT ANY AND ALL INSTRUCTIONS AHEAD OF TIME. There were very few instructions given (really just for the Diff Drop kit I believe). Luckily, I was able to download the ToyTec instructions to my phone and reference that from time to time. But I wasn't too stoaked about doing that with my greasy hands. However, I couldn't find ANY official instructions for my UCAs to download. And, I really didn't feel like searching the forum while my friends were working on my truck.

    Now, I'm just hoping that my wheels and tires arrive as expected tomorrow so that I can have them installed, my UCAs installed (they better have time to do that), and get my alignment done.

    Would be great to have it pretty much all finished off before my wife gets home. Don't think she realized that new Wheels/Tires go along with the new lift. She assumed the receipt in my email from Extreme Custom Wheels was for the lift, not noticing that had arrived from Toytec a couple days earlier. But who am I to correct her? She'll figure it out sometime in the next few days. :D
     
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