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Tranny, T-case and Diff fluids?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by maxrpm80, Apr 29, 2011.

  1. Apr 29, 2011 at 8:19 AM
    #1
    maxrpm80

    maxrpm80 [OP] New Member

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    01 XCab TRD 4WD
    2.5" Daystar spacers, AAL, Rancho RS5000 shocks, 265/75R16 BFG AT, 16x8 ProComp wheels, PIAA driving lights
    Im just over 100k in my 2001 ExCab TRD 4x4 5 Speed Tacoma, so its time to do these fluids.
    What is everyones opinion on going these routes for replacement fluids?
    This is my first time doing this so im trying to make sure im ordering the correct fluids and weights and all. Thanks!

    For the transmission:
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx

    For the t-case, front and rear diff:
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx
     
  2. Apr 29, 2011 at 8:32 AM
    #2
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    In a corn field, OH
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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    You like putting the best in your truck huh?:D

    Yeah those will definitely work.

    And welcome to the site
     
  3. Apr 29, 2011 at 8:33 AM
    #3
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    First, do you have your owner's manual? The specified grades/weights for your truck and condtions will be in there.

    The Amsoil manual tranny oil is the correct grade and spec. Synthetic is nice for the transmission. I use the Red Line synthetic GL4.

    http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7

    I believe the tranfer case should take the same as the transmission, but I may be high and I don't have my manual handy. It's been about 10k miles since I did mine...

    For the diffs, it kinda depends. I think the maint. interval is 30k miles. But do you have the diff breather mod? If not, and you get into deeper water or mud and submerge the diffs, you'll need to change the oil anyway. In that case, I wouldn't bother with Amsoil synthetic, because it would be a waste of money. I just used Valvoline petro based. I think this is it:

    http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/gear-oil/61

    Oh, and welcome! Wow, post #1.

    Hi, steve-o :wave:
     
  4. Apr 29, 2011 at 8:53 AM
    #4
    facemob

    facemob Well-Known Member

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    OME 881, Nitrochargers front and rear, diff drop, Wheelers 3 Leaf AAL, Supertop, shitty brush guard and a hole in the muffler
    agree with scocar. Trans and transfer are the same, sever gear 75-90, gl4. this may be beating a dead horse, never seem to get a clear answer, i hear gl5 can fuck up softer metals, anyway, yes. 2.3 and 1.2qt respectively i think. A word of advice, get the pump for that damn amsoil bottle for doing the trans, no room to get anything above the fill hole. 10 min job turned into a pain in the ass for me. ended up routing a 1/2 inch tube down thru engine bay into fill hole and filling it from there. I suck.
    I used castrol 80 90 hypoi gear oil for rear......dont know if it matters, everything i read said HYPOID was necessary
     
  5. Apr 29, 2011 at 8:56 AM
    #5
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    :wave:

    And x2 on the redline MT-90

    You're correct on the GL-5 destroying the brass syncros. Stick with anything GL-4
     
  6. Apr 29, 2011 at 9:28 AM
    #6
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    YES GET A PUMP! Especially for the front diff! And go get all the factory crush washers from Toyota. The tranny and transfer take the square-cut aluminum ones, the rear diff takes the steel crush washers top and bottom, and the front, oh shit, the bottom one is a big, special copper one, and I think the top is the same as the ones on the rear diff.

    If the rear diff plugs have not been off in a long time and were not torqued corrrectly or used the wrong crush washer, they can be a royal pain to get off. Start by taking the fill plug off. That way, you're not screwed with an empty diff and no way to refill it if you have issues getting the fill plug off.
     
  7. Apr 29, 2011 at 11:16 AM
    #7
    facemob

    facemob Well-Known Member

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    OME 881, Nitrochargers front and rear, diff drop, Wheelers 3 Leaf AAL, Supertop, shitty brush guard and a hole in the muffler
    +1 definitely get the washers. Im a huge advocate of spending the 2$ to ensure you dont loose an oil plug and burn something up. Think of it like your paying $2 insurance on a $1000 part. A buddy used to talk shit because every time i changed oil in the motorcycle i used a new washer. He ended up loosing a plug on I 95. Didnt destroy the motor or crash, but he uses a new washer now. Not to say that the washer would prevent it totally, im sure there was a torque issue as well.

    Torque, rear dif...I think 36 and trans 27?
     
  8. Apr 29, 2011 at 11:24 AM
    #8
    david55838

    david55838 Member

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    The owner's manual (1999) says hypoid oil for the diffs. Can you NOT use a synthetic like RP in there? Are they not hypoid oils?
     
  9. Apr 29, 2011 at 11:47 AM
    #9
    Gage

    Gage Active Member

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    This oil suction gun is worth the money
     
  10. Apr 30, 2011 at 10:00 AM
    #10
    alove0750

    alove0750 Well-Known Member

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    Icon coilovers, shocks and springs SPC Upper Control Arms SCS Ray 10’s w/ 265/70R17 BFG KO2’s Leer 100XR shell
    I went with the Lucas 75-90 Synthetic in front/rear diff and transfer case
     
  11. Jun 21, 2011 at 10:07 PM
    #11
    Norton

    Norton Senior Member

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    Magnuson S/C w/12TRDTacoma's Qwikchange Hub & 2.5" RIP-Modded Pulley, Roostfactor's Pulley Wrap Mod; FPR Mod; JustDSM Tune via HPT MPVI2; mightytacoman Intercooler Tank; aFe POWER Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter; OME Suspension Lift (885 Coils, Dakar Leafs, NitroCharger Sports); TRD Quickshifter w/TRD 6-Spd Knob; TRD Exhaust; NSB-AGM27F Battery w/HKB Adjustable Voltage Booster & Coupe's TRD Battery Hold Down; Goodridge SS Brake Lines; Trident904's MT ADM; BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2s on FJ SE Anthracite Rims; N-Fab 6-Step Nerf Bars; BPF TRD Skid, Tow Hook, & Cooling Panel; jsi's Locker Anytime, Up2NoGood's 2Lo Module; ramonortiz55's Always on Power Outlet Relay, ND4's Fog Light Anytime, & Crom's Speed Bleeder Mods; crashnburn80's Ultimate Headlight & Fog Light Upgrades; ThreatLevelMidnight's Wireless Charger; 4Runner 4X4 & FJ Fog Light Switches; redtaco2007-inspired LED License Plate Lights; AudioControl LC2i LOC, JL Audio XD200/2v2 Amp, Focal PS165V1 Spkrs, Sound Ordnance B-8PTD Sub, Hushmat & Noico Sound Insulation; loginfailed-inspired Speedhut Boost & AFR Gauges in a Lotek Pillar Pod; Ltd Auto-Dim/Compass/Temp/Backup Camera/Homelink mirror on ImMrYo's Mirror Lift Bracket; TacomaBeast Glove Box & Console Organizers; Husky Floor Liners; UltraGauge EM; mesojdm's Ultimate LED Dome & Map Lights & GASSHOLE; Redline Tuning QuickLIFT Elite; Mobtown Offroad Locking Bed Storage Doors; Toyota Bed Mat; Cali Raised Led Bed Stiffeners; Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock w/TacomaTruckParts Support Bracket; ARE Z-Series Cap, SolarGard Tint; BlendMounted & MirrorTapped Uniden R3; CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna; Amsoil Lubricants; Adam's Detailing Supplies
    In preparation for completing my swap to Amsoil, I visited my local stealership earlier today. scocar's descriptions are exactly right. Here are the part numbers:
    - Transmission = 2 x 90430-18008 ($1.51/ea)
    - Transfer Case = 2 x 90430-18008 ($1.51/ea)
    - Rear Differential = 2 x 12157-10010 ($1.23/ea)
    - Front Differential = 1 x 12157-10010 ($1.23) + 1 x 90430-24003 ($1.74)

    Total cost for this "insurance" was less than $13, including tax. :D
     
    burntkat likes this.
  12. Jun 27, 2011 at 7:29 PM
    #12
    x2468

    x2468 Well-Known Member

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    Why does the service manual say GL-5?
     

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