Transfer actuator

Is anyone making an aftermarket Transfer case Actuator yet? Or where is the cheapest place to get one? I went all last winter without 4wd and really dont want to do it again this year...but $900 for the actuator alone is not in the cards for me....

 

i had to bite the bullet a couple of months ago on that. keep in mind $900 (mine was $1200) is just the price of the actuator, it still had to be installed.
after paying all that money it still didn't work because my front diff actuator needed the solder fix.
the smile on my face probably looked like 2 grand after my 4x4 indicator light was no longer flashing once i got everything buttoned back up. 2 months later everything is still working perfectly.

 

You can fix it yourself for free. Search around, there are roughly 14 billion threads on it. You can always put a manual shift FJ T-case in there too... Also, it's very easy to manually shift both the front axle and the T-case. A 10mm and a flat screwdriver you can be in 4wd in under 10 minutes. I keep my front ADD locked all the time and made my own manual shift cable for the T-case out of an old boat shifter. Works great, shifts into 4wd every time, and it was free.

 

14 billion threads makes for some pretty time-consuming searching. Could you refer me to a thread which describes your transfer case mod? It sounds interesting, since mine is acting up. Thanx.

 

I don't think I ever made a thread on it. It's a little too hillbilly for TW lol. The shift shaft on the transfer case has three positions. All the way in is 2hi. One click out is 4hi. All the way out is 4lo.

I mounted the shifter on my left side. Just a very basic lever that pulls on the cable. You can clearly feel the clicks of the detent balls on the shift shaft.






On the T-case side, I built a tower to hold the sheath of the cable. The cable is attached to the shift shaft with a piece of tubing slid over the shaft held in place with set screws, and the cable end threads into the end of the adapter. It leaks a little (to keep things lubricated!), as you can see, and was built out of scrap. I keep saying when it breaks I'll put an FJ case in, but 5 years and thousands of shifts later.... still rockin'.

 

the 14 billion threads your referring to are relating to the ADD actuator (the one on the front differential). it's actually surprisingly tough to get decent info on what to do should the t-case actuator go on a guy.
i have to give you credit on the fix you did for yours. pretty intuitive!
i don't plan on keeping my truck forever meaning it'd be that much more difficult to sell with parts that aren't usual meaning i had to suck it up and spend the cash.

 

I suppose that's true enough. Just pop the black plastic cover off the transfer actuator. Underneath is a clock springs, so separate them carefully. In the black plastic under the big gear are three metal traces. The T-case vents humidity into this area, creating a foamy white sludge that seems to corrode and insulate those traces. Clean them off and inspect them well, ensuring the contact that drags on the trace has continuity throughout the entire swing of the main gear that drives the worm gear. You'll see what I mean when you get it apart. It's free, and it will work again until more water gets in there.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/034000.pdf

 

That is an ingenious fix. Maybe I can come up with a way to use that idea on mine--just a little bit less hillbilly so SWMBO will still ride with me.

 

I have done lots or research on it. It crapped out over a year ago. I managed to unlock both the Tcase and the ADD last year. I even did the solder repair on the ADD...still no luck. Now I just want to turn the knob when it snows so I can drive my son to school.

 

Are there any members nearby that can give you a hand? I could fix it in less than two beers. Really, it's super easy. Explaining all of this took longer than actually fixing the T-case actuator. It would actually be much more difficult to replace it with a new one than to fix the one you have.

Black plastic case. Three 10mm bolts. Don't even have to remove the whole actuator from the truck, just the case.



Inside you find these guys. Clean all the splooge off of them. See the three little fingers that are attached to the gear? Clean those too, and lightly hit them with sandpaper so they make good contact. Reassemble the same way it came apart, done.




A shot of what the shift shaft looks like with the actuator removed completely. (OP doesn't have to do this, just showing so you can see how it works, kinda like rack and pinion steering)



Here is what a bad one looks like. Mine was like this but with more water. Can you see why electrical contact throughout the trace is impossible? An interesting note, the E-locker actuator and front ADD are similar. Learn to rebuild one and you can rebuild them all.

 

I just re read last years thread on this...
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/299498-2005-stuck-four-low-2.html

Apparently I already had it opened and it looked clean as can be

 

Well shit. There goes that theory, I completely forgot about that. Did you read the factory FSM I posted above about how to check it?

 

Yes, thank you for that. I will print it out this week and hopefully pull it into my shop and give it another try....

 

Need some help. I got a used actuator that I know was working when my buddy pulled it off. He took it off by removing the plate with the 3 screws and pulling the gear off. When it was put all back together it will switch from 2H to 4H but grinds going into 4L. I took it back off and I can manually switch it into 4L. When putting it back together is it idiot proof? Is there a specific tooth it has to be on?

I know I had to a pull the actual a lil out then drop the gear back in. (The teeth were not lining up perfectly) Then when it was bolted back together it put some pressure on the rod pushing into the transfercase.

I believe this guy has the same problem I'm having?
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/335056-t-case-actuator-position.html

 

Silly question
When you installing it back
Is your transfer case fork in 2wd position and Actuator in 2wd position?
From the sound of it its not.

 

It's not foolproof. The actuator needs to be in the same position (2HI) as the Transfer case. This should help you figure it out.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/03400510.pdf

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/034000.pdf

 

There's a company called Posi-Lok 4X4 that makes a cable system for a number of vehicles but not yet for the Tacoma. It's essentially a PTO cable knob with a push button lock that slides the actuator sleeve to engage the front axle. As noted above a similar system can be used for the transfer case. I've called the company and they may look into developing a product to fit our trucks. Look them up on the web and their page has an applications request form. If enough Tacoma owners ask, maybe they'll develop a system to essentially eliminate the electronic system. FWIW, the cable system for my former 96 R*M was around $150 to my door...

 

Yes the both trucks were in 2h when taken off. But when the rod is pushed all the way in to 4H it's like a tooth off if you bolt the actuator back up. So I backed it out just enough to drop the gear in. Then tightened the bolts back up. Pushing the rod in 1/4-1/8".

 

How much force does it take to pull the rod in and out. From 2h-4h-4l. I know it took a lot of force by hand.

 

Mine doesn't take much force, it takes a firm grip, maybe 40 lbs of force? I dunno.