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Transfer case fluid change

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Rgerrior, Jan 5, 2020.

  1. Jan 18, 2020 at 8:46 AM
    #61
    tacom02

    tacom02 guy with a truck

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    Fair enough haha, I was just hoping that I wouldnt have to take the transfer case apart
     
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  2. Jan 18, 2020 at 8:49 AM
    #62
    daytrader2

    daytrader2 Well-Known Member

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    2" suspension lift/wheel spacers.
    Yeah I feel ya. That's why I haven't done mine yet. I am though when I change the front fluid in the xfer case and front differential this week. Good luck with it. Keep us posted if you will.
     
  3. Jan 18, 2020 at 8:59 AM
    #63
    tacom02

    tacom02 guy with a truck

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    will do, same with you
     
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  4. Jan 18, 2020 at 9:12 AM
    #64
    daytrader2

    daytrader2 Well-Known Member

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    2" suspension lift/wheel spacers.
    Just double check though, I certainly don't want to send you down the wrong rabbit hole... I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but still, there are folks here that are 1000 times more well versed on these things than me. I'm the guy that waited for 137K miles to change my rear differential fluid. :der:
    (Of course thats the exact reason I only buy Tacoma's)
     
  5. Feb 21, 2020 at 6:49 PM
    #65
    daytrader2

    daytrader2 Well-Known Member

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    2" suspension lift/wheel spacers.
    Hey question_____
    I finally got around to changing the gear oil in the front differential and the transfer case, (yeah I know I said I was gonna do it a month ago but I wanted the PB Blaster to soak lol), but I have a question.
    When I did the rear differential the old oil looked great. Like cooking almost. Ditto for the x-fer case yesterday. But the front differential oil looked horrible. I mean not horrible, but it was coal black. I noticed in this thread (I think), and a couple others regarding changing the fluid in these things, people have said the same thing, that the front oil was pretty bad. Any theories on this? Is there maybe a breather hose that stuff gets in? I don't see why there would be a difference. Anyway, just curious, that's all.
     
  6. Feb 24, 2020 at 6:05 AM
    #66
    SR-71A

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    255/85/R16 Falken Wildpeak MTs, Mobtown sliders, ARB bar, SOS front skid, Icon RXT leafs, extended & adjustable Kings, JBA UCAs, OVS wedge RTT, dual AGM batteries, Gen2 xrc9.5 winch, CB, GMRS, S1 ditch lights...
    I noticed the same thing when I did mine at 60k. Only thing I could think of would be the 4x4 (ADD) mechanism. But even then Im not totally sure why that would be the case. Also quite a bit of sediment on the magnetic drain plug.
     
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  7. Feb 24, 2020 at 6:30 AM
    #67
    D2.

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    PB blaster won't do a thing to loosen the drain bolt, they are seals. If PB Baster could get "in" then your oil is getting "out"

    Clean the bolt for sure, but I really don't think penetrating oil helps with any of the oil drain bolts.
    just my opinion :crapstorm:

    Heat on the other hand.... that works wonders! same with welding a bolt / allen sockt to the stripped out hex. That's what I had to do. ( why could they not just make it a square hole to accept a 1/2" drive, or 3/8" drive? would have been so much easier )
    that or you could buy the Lexus GS430 drain bolt that has a 14mm head on it. That's what I had to end up doing after I stripped min out.
    0QGiNpvtSiiedBUddSP9htxXl5yHxfeYwtDFDSp0_1fe7a4e082407531800844240ba77aad14ffdaac.jpg
     
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