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Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by gearcruncher, Aug 7, 2013.

  1. May 31, 2024 at 8:22 PM
    #381
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    I wouldn't add extra at that point. I'd just be sure I was at the correct temperature to check it...
     
    KSracer and HondaGM like this.
  2. May 31, 2024 at 8:26 PM
    #382
    KSracer

    KSracer Active Member

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    Extra dog hair
    I didn't bother measuring what came out, but If anything, it was overfilled.
     
  3. May 31, 2024 at 8:32 PM
    #383
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    what makes you think it was overfilled?
     
  4. May 31, 2024 at 8:37 PM
    #384
    KSracer

    KSracer Active Member

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    Extra dog hair
    It almost overflowed a 5+ quart pan when I drained it and the final refill didn't take nearly that much.
     
  5. May 31, 2024 at 8:45 PM
    #385
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    gearcruncher[OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 20, 2024 at 12:15 PM
    #386
    joseph_womack

    joseph_womack 2007 Tundra

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    Here’s the update:

    Drained the fluid and caught it to send it off to Blackstone; dropped the pan to Ohm out the SLU solenoid, it is indeed bad (reading 6.1 Ohms instead of 5-5.6). Wiring looks good and bottom of the valve body looks good. However there are some non metallic flakes in the bottom of the pan. Doesn’t look like clutch material to me but perhaps something that’s come out of the new torque converter? Have you ever seen flakes like that?

    once the new solenoid arrives from Toyota I’ll button the pan back up and refill with Valvoline Maxlife and Lubeguard platinum and work on starting the ATF cooler setup. But my boss and I were thinking it might be smart to drop the valve body and take it apart to clean it out? What is your take on it?

    IMG_2897.jpg
    IMG_2901.jpg
    IMG_2900.jpg
    IMG_2905.jpg
     
  7. Jun 20, 2024 at 4:21 PM
    #387
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Looks like aluminum to me .
    If the flakes were steel , they would stuck to your magnets .
    I agree that dropping the valve body will help .
    Have a Sonnax zip kit ready to go
     
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  8. Jun 20, 2024 at 4:54 PM
    #388
    joseph_womack

    joseph_womack 2007 Tundra

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    thats what I'll do then, any tips on getting the connectors out of the solenoids? Had a difficult time getting the SLU connector off

    Secondly what do you think about the flake looking things in the bottom left? Haven't touched them yet to see what they're made out of
     
  9. Jun 21, 2024 at 10:31 AM
    #389
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's a lot of metal in your pan .
    I am thinking rebuild if you plan to keep it .
     
    joseph_womack[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Jul 10, 2024 at 6:01 PM
    #390
    KSracer

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    Did you have any luck? The tab on the male part doesn't seem to depress so I guess I'll try to pry the female part open farther.
     
  11. Dec 18, 2024 at 8:26 PM
    #391
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    @gearcruncher my research for a p0756 code is solenoid S2 should be replaced, Toyota part number 35230-60010. Am I tracking?
     
  12. Mar 3, 2025 at 7:20 AM
    #392
    72rona

    72rona New Member

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    Usual stuff for 42's
    Ok I searched but haven't found anything about doing a drain and fill out of the cooler line into a container and there is alot of air burping and splattering out in the container even tho my transmission is filled to the same amount or more about 1.5 quart at a time. The original problem I have with the trans is when it's cold it's not engaging in D until warmed up about a minute after starting. When it's fully warmed up it's fine shifts normal but does seem to run hot about 180 to 210. Anybody have an idea of the air issue? DTC is P2714
     
  13. Apr 11, 2025 at 11:36 AM
    #393
    Kban03Tacoma

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    Hey figured you’d be the man to ask, I have a pretty serious crack in my bell housing next to the slave cylinder on my 4x4 manual w59 for 3rz. A picture will be attached so you can see. I’m not sure what could have caused it to crack which has me believing that something went wrong with the gearing or bearings. Do you think id be fine just replacing the bell housing or is the trans done?IMG_1848.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2025
  14. Apr 11, 2025 at 1:15 PM
    #394
    99RojoTaco

    99RojoTaco Well-Known Member

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