Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

The dealer replaced the fluid.
Dealer told me they do remove the pan, but I don't know what else they do after. They said that are following the exact official procedure from Toyota.
I don't have a code scanner.

The rough upshifting happens from 4th to 5th gear and locking on 5 (don't know what I'm talking, whatever happens after 5). It happens mostly when transmission is cold, and a bit rough when is warmer. Doesn't happen all the time, but is definitely more often when transmission is colder.
Also the shift under 80km/h from D to 4 is rough. If I drive in 4 all is ok.

The fluid change happened 2.5 weeks ago, around 1300km away. Was worse at the beginning, but now seems to be a bit of improvement.

Thank you!

 

Its not uncommon for valves inside the valve body to get a little sticky after removing dirty transmission fluid .Over time , small particles of dirt slowly wash out of the valve body and the sticking valve becomes less noticeable
With that being said you have a couple options .
Take it back to the dealer and complain to them that the transmission is no longer functioning correctly after they performed the transmission service and ask them to put the transmission back to the way it was before they serviced it .I suggest you do this quickly .
Do you have extended warranty on the truck ? Dealerships dont fix transmissions other than the odd solenoid . They always remove the old transmission and install a new trans $$$$$$ and I would expect the dealership to come back at you with a quotation for a new transmission

Take your truck to a transmission shop for a free road test . They will tell you exactly whats happening and why just by road testing your truck . Road tests are free

 

Correction: the oil pan was not removed, they just drained and refilled the transmission.
Today the Toyota technician did a quick road test and found nothing wrong.

I guess the sludge at the bottom of the uncleaned pan raised and went in the valves. It seems very slow is moving away, the shifting is never rough now, just nudges and hesitations but I hope will not be permanent damage. What do you think?

Would it help to redo the fluid change again but by removing the oil pan, clean and reinstall? Is there an easier way to clean the sludge in the valves with some additive?

Thank you!

 

Add a bottle of Lubegaurd and you should be good to go

 

Thank you!

Just got the bottle of the original (60902). Instructions are saying to add the bottle with engine idling in park. And are saying to not overfill. But my transmission is already full so I have to drain the excess of 300ml of oil. When?
Let's say I pour in the whole bottle of Lubegard, how long should I idle till drain?

Thank you again and sorry for dumb questions!

 

I would drain a quart , then add the lubeguard , then top off with ATF

 

I'm at my wits end with the weird vibes I have. I to the point where I'm just gonna start trying stuff, because I cant find a definitive answer. Ive done several drain and fills and lubeguard to no avail. It "seems" like the vibes I have will stop with the brake test for a brief second.. But generally the vibe is only felt at a certain rpms,, and when I hit the brakes, the rpms jump up out of the range in which I generally feel the vibe, and the Rpms only stay there for just a second, so I cant be sure what exactly is happening. It seems inconclusive to me as to whether I still get vibes without being in lockup or not.. And it only seems I can feel it in 4th and 5th too.. But this isn't the only vibe I'm dealing with either. I have a pretty bad vibe at 3k whether in gear or not. the kind of vibe that reminds me of a fan spinning with a broken blade, and the steering wheel feels like I'm holding a vibrating cell phone. The other vibe is similar in feeling, but maybe slightly less aggressive with more drone. Anyway, at this point I'm wanting to just try something, but if I'm tearing into the transmission, I wanna make it worth my while.. So I'm considering going with a shift kit as well, I hate mushy shifts. So, what kind of solenoids or other parts should I look at replacing? I'm assuming the lockup solenoid.. but what else? and also wondering which shift kit to go with that involves the least amount of work and/or modification. I don't want to drop the trans. But I wanna do everything I can up to that point. If it doesn't work, maybe ill try a new converter. I love the truck, I just hate driving it because of the annoying on and off droney vibes I get and feel all the time. I cant drive without focusing on it and paying attention to it, and messing with it letting off the throttle, tapping the brakes and experimenting. Tell me what to do!

 

Where exactly is the adjustment screw? is it on the end of the solenoid thats inside the valve body or is it the gold screw thats barely visible under the retainer clip? what size allen key was it? thanks, sorry for all the questions.

 

Adjustment screw is on the solenoid itself on the side that slides into the housing, hence you have to remove it to access the screw. If memory serves it is either 5mm or 5.5mm.

 

Thanks! Also, has your shudder returned? still happy with the modification?

 

Shudder did not return for the year or so I has this done. I have since done the Ratiotek upgrade because I was starting to get some slipping from either 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th, I cant remember now. I wrote a guide for the Ratiotek install here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ratiotek-transmission-upgrade-how-to.528378/

 

With all the different vibrations you have going on , I suggest starting your own post in order to narrow things down .
We can work together and try and clear up a few of these issues . Dont want to see you throwing $$$$$$$ at parts you dont need .
Members come here for help
Start your own post and we will go from there

 

Dealer ship wanted me to get a whole new transmission because I was experiencing this shudder feeling..

Instead I did a drain n fill, replaced the transmission filter, cleaned the magnets, turned the SLU SOLENOID 1/4 turn, added a bottle of the lube guard and dr. Instant shudder fix. Seems to have fixed the problem!

 

Gearcruncher,

Thanks for the post and all of the information. I also had the low rpm shudder in lower gears under load in my 2008 prerunner. And i ordered the transgo kit you suggested. I finished installing it last night. Once i was able to get the rest of the ATF fluid i needed (put 6qrts in, needed another 1.5) this morning i was able to drive it for the first time.

Under normal load shifting it is nice and smooth but crisper. Once i apply a good load upon take off the shifting reminds me of the stage 1 shift kits I used to put in some of the old turbo 350 transmissions. It wont chirp the tires when shifting but it is a fast solid shift without slippage.

And i do not have the low rpm shudder anymore.

Thanks again!

 

Hey YouTwit

I am certainly happy to hear you got your truck fixed using some of the info posted on Tacoma World .

I would like to ask you for help .
Is there any chance you could send me the Trans-go instructions that came with the kit ?

 

Yea of course. I can scan them in tomorrow and send them.

 

Update-conclusion: after Toyota dealer drained and refilled the transmission a month ago I noticed rough shifting, especially when cold. I complained to dealer and they "double checked levels and road test" everything in about 5 minutes and said is all ok. But the rough shifting continued.

After your advice to add Lubegard and an injured right hand I was able only to add Instant Shudder Fixx two weeks ago. That improved a lot the shifting, but I still didn't check fluid level.

This weekend I had all I needed (bottle pump, ws fluid, Lubegard). Started the procedure to check fluid level and found it too low, to drops of oil came out. I let it cool well and drained a pint of luid, added the Lubegard and a bit of fresh fluid. Started the fluid level check and still way too low. Let everything cool again and added 400ml fresh fluid. Checked level again and now was just a bit above.
Shifting now is smooth, no roughness whatsoever, gives a solid feel.

In conclusion the "double check" from dealer was just bs and simply put the mechanic who did the fluid change is an idiot, put about 500ml less fluid in, which is about 15% less. These transmissions seem to be very sensible to fluid level.

Thank you for your help!

 

PS: I have my reasons to believe Toyota WS fluid is made by Mobil 1, same like the engine oils.

 

Man I have, several times.. But it always is a dead end, because I cant seem to nail down exactly what kind of vibrations others are having versus what I'm having. Or cant find anything at all even similar. Ive added lube guard twice, done two drain and fills. Experimented with different fluid levels. I'm down to the point of just gonna start throwing money at it til something sticks because I know it cant be normal. I'm going to replace whatever solenoids in the trans and I would like to do a simple shift kit while I'm in there. And see what happens. If that doesn't help, I guess ill replace the torque converter. Ive had it at the dealer. They are stupid. Ive had it at a trans shop, and they pretty much just didn't know, and didn't wanna find out, because it would just cost money. And I'm a single guy who works 40-50+ hours a week, and lives 35 minutes from town.. Its hard to get time to work on it. I'm just looking to see exactly what parts, where to find em. And also what different things I should purchase so that I don't forget something and then be left stranded needing a part.

 

Point me to the thread you started and we will begin the elimination process .