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Transporting my 15.5 foot canoe

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by maxpower29, Jun 6, 2011.

  1. Jun 6, 2011 at 2:16 PM
    #1
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    Personally Im pissed I had to drop 600 bones on a canoe, I would have rather had it for $10. But the world isnt prefect so oh well. Im wondering how hard it will be and does anyone just slap theirs in the bed and rug it? I dont want to buy a roof rack or anything is possible. Any pics would be stellar too!
     
  2. Jun 6, 2011 at 2:18 PM
    #2
    Rev720

    Rev720 Well-Known Member

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    Just carry it in the bed & used good quality tie down straps & make sure your have the orange flag on the end of it:):)
     
  3. Jun 6, 2011 at 2:42 PM
    #3
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    I was thinking that but when trying to fit it on was a challenge and Im worried about the length (thats what she said)
     
  4. Jun 6, 2011 at 2:50 PM
    #4
    Tacomada

    Tacomada Well-Known Member

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    I've used one of these (different brand) before. Worked ok but not sure how id like it for longer distances. Just have to be careful where you place the supports so they don't dent the roof.

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046G6CSS/ref=asc_df_B0046G6CSS1574445?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    Alternatively i saw some soft roof racks somewhere that were cheap. Not sure if they were inflatable or foam filled but they looked like they would work decent. For a cost saving option.
     
  5. Jun 6, 2011 at 2:58 PM
    #5
    little red

    little red Well-Known Member

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  6. Jun 6, 2011 at 3:01 PM
    #6
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    thanks guys. Im thinking the 16 footer was a bad idea lol
     
  7. Jun 6, 2011 at 3:05 PM
    #7
    fjrmurph

    fjrmurph Well-Known Member

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    I have done this lots. Tie a rope to the end of your canoe, run it in through the tie down on the drivers side of your box, slide in the canoe while pulling the rope so that you have the end of the canoe tight to the corner of the box. I have used a piece of carpet to keep the end of the canoe clear of
    the rear window. Use a rachet strap to secure the canoe at the rear of the box. I carry all my fishing rods nets paddles and gear in the canoe then. Just remember you will have a lot of over hang, a red/orange rag tied to the back of the canoe would be a good idea
     
  8. Jun 6, 2011 at 3:11 PM
    #8
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    thanks for the advice. Im going to buy some more straps now. I was more worried about the thing hitting the back window to be honest, because it looked close
     
  9. Jun 6, 2011 at 3:18 PM
    #9
    fjrmurph

    fjrmurph Well-Known Member

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    I had to use the long rope trick because i had a cap on the truck, after i slid in the canoe i couldn't get in along side, if ya don't have a cap it makes it easier to secure
     
  10. Jun 6, 2011 at 3:24 PM
    #10
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

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    i just got 2 13 foot kayaks and im trying to figure out how to haul it too... i think im going to get the thing from extendatruck.

    i thought about just using rachet straps and putting them in my bed and make sure they are in real good with a red rag on the end of it.

    but im kind of worried about my turning radious
     
  11. Jun 6, 2011 at 3:30 PM
    #11
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ya Im not the best driver for long and big trucks either. Never ad to in my life
     
  12. Jun 6, 2011 at 5:51 PM
    #12
    Tacoyota

    Tacoyota senile member

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    My setup. I use pull/cams instead of ratchets since they are lighter and cant readily apply as much force that could warp or bend. 2 around the supports/kayak, the 2 more at the ends running back to the supports to keep it from sliding fwd or reverse.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jun 6, 2011 at 5:58 PM
    #13
    tex

    tex Well-Known Member

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    This canoe is 17'. The bar was $50 from harbor freight and the styrofoam feet were $15-20. The front was attached to the nfab lightbar.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:03 AM
    #14
    JDCPA

    JDCPA Well-Known Member

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    I was so frustrated in trying to figure out a way to mount my 17' canoe I just tied it on the top of my Carolina Skiff on its trailer and tow it to where I want to go.
     
  15. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:27 AM
    #15
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ya I really ddropped the ball buying one before I figured out how to move it lol
    frustrating for sure
     
  16. Jun 7, 2011 at 7:40 AM
    #16
    fredfarmer

    fredfarmer Well-Known Member

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    I use this to transport a couple of 14.5ft kayaks. Just put a red flag on the end, tie it down and you will be fine...
     
  17. Jun 7, 2011 at 8:04 AM
    #17
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    How do you guys keep it from damaging the roof though?
     
  18. Jun 7, 2011 at 8:12 AM
    #18
    OZ-T

    OZ-T Quite an experience to live in fear , isn't it ?

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    OP , consider a headache rack / Backrack if you are going to be moving your canoe frequently , it makes it so simple , with my headache rack installed I can carry 20' lumber over the roof and tailgate securely and safely
     
  19. Jun 7, 2011 at 8:57 AM
    #19
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking that, but then I would have to take my tonneau off everytime. How long does it take to put a backrack on?
     
  20. Jun 7, 2011 at 9:02 AM
    #20
    OZ-T

    OZ-T Quite an experience to live in fear , isn't it ?

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    I didn't realize you had a tonneau

    My headache rack bolts to the bed rails and takes about 10 minutes to mount or remove
     
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