TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Thanks man! It’s exactly what I’m going for. A clean (no pun intended), reliable, strong, long lasting set up.

 

I want to somehow get a stainless radiator support made. It would look great and get rid of that black plastic one in the process....

 

Like this?

https://www.bpfabricating.com/products/05-11-toyota-tacoma-cooling-panel

 

Yeah I’ve seen that but I’m talking about the piece in front of that

 

You guys. Always giving me more ideas. And I was supposed to pay off debts this year.

It does look pretty awesome.

 

Hey all, I'm having a problem moving the tensioner arm on the supercharger so that I can replace the belt. While lying on the ground under the truck and pushing upwards(clockwise while looking at the front of the truck) on a 1/2" socket wrench I can't get it to move. I'm no He-man but I'm putting a fair amount of force on this thing. I can try with my torque wrench but I don't want this thing to snap off and then I'm on the hook for both a tow to the dealer as well as a new part.

Has anyone else had trouble getting the tensioner to budge so they can remove the belt? Has it seized on anyone?

 

Pushing/ pulling the correct way? How many miles on it

 

a 1/2" drive socket if youre john sena. you need leverage. mine is almost 2'. try that.

 

Pushing up from the ground, and looking at the truck from the front towards the back it is clockwise. 90000 miles on a 2013 DCSB. SC was installed in 2015 at 55000 miles.

 

if the handle of the tool is pointin towards the drivers front tire you should be pulling down.

 

I get it from the top and push it towards the battery from center line.

 

That's how I do it as well with my Harbor Freight special tensioner tool.

 

Alrighty, I'll give it more more go with my torque wrench since it's longer and just be super careful

 

Try a breaker bar from the top.
As you are looking at it, you will rotate clockwise to loosen.

 

i tried to make a clear explanation from my point of view. my truck is lifted so i do the tensioner from below.

 

So what's the verdict?

 

i found the torque wrench to be just right. glad to see a new screen logo in this mix. welcome, and stick around. your bank account might hate you, but we wont.

 

Anyone know the part # one that has circle in red?

 

This is from page 1:

Supercharger Drive Bearing Replacements:

(big thanks to @DocME for doing the legwork on this):

↑
Location............................OE Part Number Upper Grooved Idler ..........NSK B17-102DG3 Upper Smooth Idler ...........NSK B17-102DG3 Mid Idler ..........................China 6203-2RS Tensioner .........................NSK B17-102DG3 Lower Idler .......................NSK B17-102DG3 So if you're ordering a full replacement kit: Quantity (4) 6303 bearings - common replacement for NSK B17-102DG3 - 17mm Bore, 47mm OD, 14mm Width Quantity (1) 6203 bearing - 17mm Bore, 40mm OD, 12mm Width After looking at the on the shelf options for high speed bearings, I came across these Timkens: 63032RSC3 - https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/63032rsc3-timken-deep-groove-radial-ball-bearings-17x47x14mm/ 62032RSC3 - https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/62032rsc3-timken-deep-groove-radial-ball-bearings-17x40x12mm/ They have some of the highest limiting speed and reference speed ratings that I could find in an on the shelf bearing. I've been a Timken fan for OEMreplacements, I put them up there with Koyos for my preference. All in, these cost $70 delivered from Leeds. 2 day delivery time. We'll see how theylast.

 

alright, i've been dealing with a p0306 code for a while now and have done new FIC 650s, coils, plugs, ECT sensor, i have o2 sensors to be installed, i've checked all vac lines, and smoke tested the intake (all is good) i have been able to clear codes, and restart a few times and all runs well.

what bothers me is that when it throws the codes it is running like crap, when i clear the codes it runs great. from time to time i get this myriad of codes.
p0300
p0301
p0302
p0303
p0304
p0300
p0503
p0600

i have a spare ecu that i am trying to get the trd tune on so i can put my hp tune in to see if its a random ecu issue.

usually its just a p0306, p0300 code and i can tell it running lean so something is definitely not working right. but then just clearing the code makes it work great.
the problem usually always pops up on a cold start, but sometimes it happens when warm also. ive checked all wiring that i can get to (short of continuity between ecu and injectors, if i could get a pin out for the ecu for the injector wires i could try that)

im at a loss here and its a pain to start the car 4 or 5 times to get it to work.

what else can i look at? any tests i can try?
i also have a aeromotive pump so fuel pressure "shouldn't" be an issue. but i'm open to any suggestions and help.
thanks yall.