TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I got 4.56 rinnow with my 35's. If the gears alone do that much I will be fine than.

 

Dana 60 from ecgs, 9” from Currie or a tundra axle will all have locker options and maintain wheel speed sensors and abs and all that stuff.

The 4.56 with 35’s is a decent combo. I ran that for a few years before jumping to 37’s. Just need to be aware of what you’re driving and the situations you’re in and your parts will stay happy. I use and abuse my stuff but smart driving has saved me from breaking a lot of things.

 

this.

I've only grenaded one CV so far.. and I knew I was pushing it. just know your/the trucks limits.

 

My setup is 4.56 and 35’s.....just have to be careful. watch that skinny pedal.

 

Robert, that sucks man.. For your own piece of mind, the shift pressures of the spicy trans tune are identical to those of the standard v13/v14, the only changes are the shift points themselves. If things firmed up THAT much, it's due to the valve body.

The v14/Spicy trans tunes use almost stock pressures. It's more or less a composite of various N/A and S/C pressures ported over into a single file.

I might suggest going back to the standard S/C shift solenoid pressures with the valve body upgrade to soften that hit slightly.

 

Thanks I doubted it was the tune just the timing and it was driving fine. it happened after a bit a bit of gas and some wheel slip and an angle. rear end doesn’t want to move even with the truck off and In neutral. Shifting was never that firm (def firmer then before) or hard to shift. Technically I can shift the auto through fine with no strain. Unless the VB was good then gave up but gave no indication it was having trouble shifting. It hoping it’s the rear easier to deal with.

 

Appreciate all the input.

 

@nudavinci64 I am betting a shock loaded ring gear popped some teeth and locked it up. I ended up with four total broken teeth in mine in different spots. 4.88 with 37s. Ratiotek, V14 tune. Rolling starts are fine, but I try not to shock load it if possible. However, now I have a dana 60 with 4.88s, but still remain careful on it.

 

How is everyone over here exploding rear ends while I'm over here 4x4, WOT launching mine with the spicy tune, increased line pressures, ratiotek VB, and polyurethane mounts/ CB from front to back on 32s making 305HP and still okay? You guys are animals clearly and drive much hard than I do.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/amelia-adventure4x4s-build-w-10-5-tundra-axle.664837/

Wondering if this should be plan B for some of us? Should be the cheapest way to replace the little 8" in the Off Road models.

 

32s and 3.73s vs 37s and 4.88

 

Do you have the e lock rear end?

 

yah that's my guess it got a nice shock when I mashed the Gas. Was a bit too excited to try out the tune and did not think much of it until BAM... The angle of turning, gas, and tire slip compounded with tires and the heavy rig was a bound to happen at some point. Expensive learning lesson. Generally careful but still love playing with the S/C.

I was like no way the valve body was the issue. I took my sweet time and did everything to a T but naturally I had just completed it and added an updated tune so obvious things to check but something def stuck in there and like you said likely some gear bits are jammed because it was move free then bind up then free then bind up pretty bad. going forward was all bad then moving back it was free with some catch so they're just moving around and happen to be right there you don't want them.

 

I do. Any thoughts on that or if there is anything else to consider?

 

I popped my first one the same way just pulling out in traffic. I thought I snapped a belt. Eventually the second tooth snapped and then it started sounding like a flat tire every rotation of the ring gear. I was in a tight turn as well.

 

yah i prob made it worse trying to get it into a safe spot but yah was chugging then bound up bad where it started to stress the trans and I said ok you're going to wait here but it was out of traffic and a good spot for the tow truck. That sounds almost exactly like what happened on mine. Just some dumb luck that's for sure. Really bad timing. e Fan setup is going to have to take a back seat so I can carve out getting this redone. if ECGS will warranty which they may (i hope) the swap is pretty easy on a complete rear.

 

The only thing I’ve broken was a cv shaft on the front. Rear has been solid. I’m on 35s with a crawl box and the supercharger. And I’ve hopped a few times off-roading.

 

This is exactly what happened to me and what I did. The 4:88’s are inherently weaker by design. The teeth are more plentiful and thus smaller. 4:88’s with a heavy rig, much higher horsepower and 35’s will end with teeth busted off. It’s a recipe for failure. I like others, got several miles of good use, but eventually it will give up the ghost. Definitely advise for either the ford 9” or Dana 60. My issue with the 60 is that it’s harder to truss than the 9”. I have links on the front and the pumpkin almost kisses the floor pan at full bump, so the conventional Dana 60 trusses are out. I also have an ox locker, so I have their proprietary cover with integrated locking mechanism. So I can’t Fab up a cover that integrates a backbone truss. Currently not trussed. I’ll try this for a while until I need to do something different.

 

I’m hoping going 4.30 and having 33’s will yield me the stock feel as well as being highway friendly.

 

you are on a 6 speed you will like it. 4.56 with AT on 285's was my favorite combo to date. The only difference was I did not have my swingout and rear tire but the truck had pep and RPMs were not too bad on the freeway. this was also sans S/C and honestly sometimes feel it was faster then.