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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Jul 30, 2018 at 9:37 PM
    #5941
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    Lift, pedal commander, led foglights, led interior lights, led back ups, led under lighting, urd tcai, led headlights, methanol injection, 76mm tb, hood struts, dif breather mod, ratiotek trans kit, x-series gauges, true cool trans cooler, belt wrap mod, 2.8 pulley
    Extra frosting on his cake I bet:rimshot:
     
  2. Jul 30, 2018 at 9:42 PM
    #5942
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    180° is fine. I plan on installing the bypass as well because even though trans fuid goes through the radiator, in cold temps the radiator may not get that hot either meaning potentially too cold trans temps without the bypass.
     
    crashnburn80[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Jul 30, 2018 at 9:46 PM
    #5943
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    Wonder what changes also happen with the more effective bling radiator some guys have?
     
  4. Jul 30, 2018 at 9:49 PM
    #5944
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    I see my trans temps take a 40 degree swing easily in regular driving. I bet with a Tstat and larger cooler, it is a far more stable operating temperature.
     
  5. Jul 30, 2018 at 9:55 PM
    #5945
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    When I have my 6th (non factory junk gauge) I'll show results:)
     
    5thGearPinned and crashnburn80 like this.
  6. Jul 31, 2018 at 9:48 PM
    #5946
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Evening gents. For the past month, i've been dealing with the truck stumbling and studdering in 1st gear when i mash the pedal, and also in 3rd, 4th, & 5th gears at 3k rpms (which is 50,60,&70mph respectively).

    It's looking more and more like i've got a fuel pressure issue on my hands.. Can anyone recommend a good fuel pressure gauge, and have any tips on the install? I have done some research and it looks like i'm going to need a fuel rail tap to be able to add an access port for the pressure gauge..

    Also would like some info on what an overkill fuel pump would be. I have a walbro 255 right now, and if i have to drop the tank (which i get the feeling im going to), i might as well put a better one in there, so i dont have to later on down the road. I've been considering an AEM 320lph. Would like to get a pump that can maintain pressure as i start to go with smaller pulleys and do other supporting mods in the future

    All help would be greatly appreciated, ready to get this shit figured out and actually start enjoying the truck :(
     
  7. Jul 31, 2018 at 9:53 PM
    #5947
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    TX panhandle
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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    Need more info. Why do you think its fuel?
    Does it clear up if you keep throttle applied?
    Do you have the URD fuel pump kit? If so how many miles on it?
    Did you change the fuel filter?
    Did you clean the maf?
    The 255 is plenty for a 2.5 pulley, 76mm throttle body, full exhaust.

    Good luck!
     
  8. Jul 31, 2018 at 9:56 PM
    #5948
    JuanitoBonito

    JuanitoBonito Que Pasa

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    That’s what I was thinking...that 255 would be sufficient , and to check the filter....
     
  9. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:23 PM
    #5949
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    I think its fuel because Scott and I have exhausted just about anything else it could be.. weve regapped the plugs, changed the spark angle, i cleaned the maf sensor and got the same results, replaced the maf sensor thinking it could be bad but no luck there, i added a urd tcai today and still the same.. so i dont think its air or spark, im thinking fuel is one of the last things it could be.

    It runs like a bat out of hell if i keep my foot to the floor, but only if i ease into the throttle initially. Although it also misbehaves around the 3k rpm point whenever i have my foot to the floor as well.

    Yes i have the URD fuel pump upgrade kit. Just over 2800 miles on everything (blower, ucon, fuel pump) but it started acting up at mile 1.

    After i removed the bypass restrictor jet, it felt a little better and didnt stutter as much during normal driving. Before i removed that, it would hesitate badly whenever i would be in any gear cruising along and then going to wot quickly.

    Havent changed the fuel filter yet, figured it was brand new so that likely wasnt the issue, may go by napa and get one though just to eliminate it as a possibility.

    Here's Scott's latest reply.. and some data from the latest runs

    File 122:
    The UCon Guardian kicked in at 3000 due to commanded afr at 11 and measured wraf were at 12:1 for greater than .5 seconds

    Did you have greater than ¼ tank of gas?
    5/8ths of a tank

    UCon adaptives now taking out 12 to 15% fuel each bank.

    Did you disconnect the bat neg cable for 3min? Yes

    If your tank was full – it’s looks like we may have a fuel pressure issue…


    File 124:
    Yes, same as before – UCon goes instantly rich to 10:1 then 300ms later goes 18:1.

    I wonder if we’ve been having a fuel pressure issue all along.

    Normally this is seen on the top – highest flow points where it runs out of fuel.

    But if your pickup is screwed up in the tank could explain both data files…


    Given how much effort we have put in to this, I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it.

    If the fuel pressure is dropping on hard acceleration, then I would take the tank down and expect the pump.

    Take lots of photos and send to me…

    I will talk to Gadget again about this in the morning.

    It certainly looks like fuel pressure is going away under hard acceleration…


    What’s abnormal about this is that it holds fuel pressure at the top…


    S




    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  10. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:24 PM
    #5950
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Thanks buddy, i will go and grab a new filter tomorrow, cheap thing to eliminate as a possible problem before i get a fuel pressure gauge
     
  11. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:57 PM
    #5951
    JuanitoBonito

    JuanitoBonito Que Pasa

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    Also, after reading your post.....maybe you just have a faulty pump....
     
  12. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:59 PM
    #5952
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    I was also thinking this. Every once in a while shit happens and you can get a bad one right out of the box..
     
  13. Jul 31, 2018 at 11:02 PM
    #5953
    JuanitoBonito

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    Yeah, it’s unfortunate but could indeed be the answer.
     
    BassAckwards[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Jul 31, 2018 at 11:58 PM
    #5954
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    Or could the flapper potentially be obstructed if the float or whatever was attached to the bottom of the pump got on the way, fallen off, etc.

    I hate it for ya, but if the filter doesn’t fix it, hopefully at worst it’s just something that can be corrected with the pump. Sucks to drop the tank again for sure.

    If it were me, I’d probably have a new pump on standby rdy to install, but hoping I could fix a minor loose fitting or whatever and return the extra pump for my $ back
     
  15. Aug 1, 2018 at 4:19 AM
    #5955
    o0opackersfano0o

    o0opackersfano0o Well-Known Member

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    Magnuson supercharger, 2.6 quick change pulley, 76mm throttle body, Doug thorley long tubes, urd y pipe, wot box with 2 step, 170 thermostat, airaid intake, urd short throw, djm 3/4
    974BB86E-6B80-4AC0-8EBB-8530D23BD04A.jpg BF7A34C6-AD93-42E5-84F1-2D052AC21AF3.jpg 29CEB5FF-F044-4ACC-98B7-062589F16DC9.jpg I have a aem fuel pressure gauge. Very simple and easy to install with fuel rail tap.
     
  16. Aug 1, 2018 at 5:07 AM
    #5956
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    It's interesting that it got better when you removed the restrictor jet. Have you felt the bypass valve actuator arm and moved it fully open and closed to make sure it is not binding?
    I agree a loose or kinked line at the pump could cause some weird and inconsistent issues especially because of the afr fluctuations. It's almost like the pump cavitates momentarily at high demand.
    You are not running the fpr mod correct?
    I would check the line that goes from the fpr ro the intake. Remove it and check for any cracks or holes.
    It would also be beneficial to actually see the bypass valve working. If you have a go pro or similar you could take video of the actuator to make sure its opening and closing correctly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2018
  17. Aug 1, 2018 at 6:31 AM
    #5957
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, im going to wait and see what gadget has to say, and then go from there. Will go snag a fuel filter during lunch today and hope that it solves my issues, but im not expecting it to..

    Thanks for the pics and info, that seems pretty straight forward with the tap. Where did you get the brass fitting at that fits into the port? And do you basically just run a vacuum hose from the port to the gauge, or how does that work?

    I have not checked the bypass actuator, but will definitely do that later today.
    I am not running the FPR mod, I figured the 255 should've eliminated the need for that, but I may try this as well before dropping the tank.
    Actually just replaced that line yesterday when installing my URD tcai.
    Everything looked fine on the old vacuum line though, no cracks or holes.
    I don't have a go pro, but may try to find someone I can borrow one from to see it in action.
     
  18. Aug 1, 2018 at 6:37 AM
    #5958
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    @rjbiii , I am going to bet it has something to do with the fuel hose, attached to the fuel pump. Probably at the top, where it attached to the plastic barb fitting. That spot is synonymous with these kinds of issues.

    If it isn't the filter, that'd be the next place to check.
     
  19. Aug 1, 2018 at 6:42 AM
    #5959
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, great tip, that will be the next place I start troubleshooting if the filter doesn't take care of it:thumbsup:

    You thinking the hose may just be kinked or be in a bind? Or what do you think could be wrong with the hose?
     
  20. Aug 1, 2018 at 7:18 AM
    #5960
    JacksonTacoma

    JacksonTacoma Well-Known Member

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    The clamp sometimes can wear through the rubber hose supplied with the URD kit causing issues. Get the racetronix hose in this thread for a cheap upgrade if you pull the pump.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/improving-the-urd-fuel-pump-kit.308651/
     

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