TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

The URD kit really is a good deal and package, mainly because what was explained above.

 

Yep, but the oversize fuel line hose with 4 clamps is not so good thing.

 

IMO 4 more failure points.

On a bright note, THANKS AGAIN for this thread!

I bit the bullet.

I am going to bypass the troubleshooting and just eliminate many of the failure nodes - and hopefully not 'install' another.

Ordered:

1. New Fuel Pump (AEM Electronics High-Flow In-Tank Electric Fuel Pumps 50-12000
2. Gates 'Racing' (K050705RPM) grade s/c belt (O'relies wanted $110 - found on Rock Auto for ~$50)*
3. New intake and plenum gaskets (From Magnuson)
4. New accessory belt (
   $27 GATES K070834 Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt
   GATES K070834)
5. New Fuel Injector Seals (OEM upper and lower)

Then, plan on borrowing/buying OE Airbox (btw Is there any replacements to the carbon trap - a bit concerned that the carbon trap on a secondhand airbox could be clogged - know someone that toasted a an engine due to clogged trap in Baja on a naturally aspirated Tacoma)

Looking forward to clearing the codes for good. (fingers crossed) ...and for a good excuse to put my new bedsides on.

*Anytime I order from Rock Auto, I check to see if I need new wipers - always get wipers for about $4 each - one of their best bargains!!!

 

Not sure if I will do a write up on removing the tank for the 2nd Gen DC but thought I would dump some stuff here for future reference for anyone upgrading their fuel pump... (OP if you want me to remove, just PM me).

Today I visited Rock Solid Toys shop (Wyatt's shop) to look around and look at what I was getting myself into.

He has a number of DCSBs that are in various stages of conversion to Solid Axle/3 Links. Glad I did as I quickly found out there is no way of swapping out the pump from the top unless I want to remove the cab! lol

EDIT: Just found this https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-power-to-fuel-pump.523781/#post-16667096

Anyway, this is what I found on Custom Tacos written by O5TuRDSport (additional paragraphs/bullet points/spelling corrections made just for ease of reading) Original post here: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/28...4-double-cab-gas-tank-removal.html#post701905

To start you have to discharge the fuel pressure.

1. Disconnect your negative battery cable.
   
   
2. Go into the fuse block right next to the battery and remove the Circuit Opening Relay.
   
   
3. Reconnect your negative battery cable and start the engine until it dies, but turn the ignition switch back to ON.
   
   You might have a Check Engine Light come on but you can go to Advance Auto Parts and have them reset it for free.
   
   
4. Crank the truck to make sure their is no fuel pressure left in it.
   
   
5. Remove the fuel tank cap, and reinstall the Circuit Opening Relay.
   
   
6. Disconnect your negative battery cable again.
   
   
7. If you have the TRD off-road package, remove the skid plate that covers the tank.
   
   There are two fuel lines that go to the tank. One is the main line, and the other is the return line.
   
   
8. Remove the clamp that holds them together. There should be a connection in the lines at the clamp.
   
   You have to pinch the sides of the connectors, and pull the each line apart so that the lines are disconnected. Don't use any tools when you do this, because you don't wanna screw the connectors up.
   
   
9. Put a plastic bag over the connectors to protect them from dirt and contaminants.
   
   On the filler neck, there's two tubes that run up with it. About half way up, their should be a hose clamp around the fill tube.
   
   
10. loosen that hose clamp.
    
    
11. Remove the breather tube that runs up with the filler neck.
    
    On the third tube, there should be another connector like the other ones, disconnect that and protect it with a plastic bag or something.
    
    
12. Now you need to support the tank in someway.
    
    
13. Remove the two fuel tank bands by first removing the two bolts on the one side of the bands, and then the the clip and pin on the other side of the bands.
    
    
14. Slightly lower the tank to remove the fuel filler neck, but don't bring it down too far so you don't break or stretch the wires.
    
    
15. Remove the fuel pump cover and disconnect the fuel pump connector.
    
    There should be one more tube coming out of the tank, the fuel tank vent hose, and there should be another connector for it on or near the charcoal canister.
    
    
16. Pinch the connector together and pull the tube out, and protect the connector with a plastic bag.
    
    
17. Make sure everything is disconnected from the tank and then drop the tank down all of the way.

 

Got the ratiotek valve body upgrade installed today. Holy crap feels like a completely different truck now. Anyone who is on the fence, the kit is only like $28 on Amazon. Yes you will pay more to have it installed, but I think it is totally worth it. It took my mechanic 6 hours to complete everything, and it took 8 quarts of fresh fluid after everything was said and done.

 

I told you it was a night and day difference.

6 hours eh? What a slacker. Lol.

 

Hehe he was not happy with the mess it made. I told him what to expect but I guess he didn’t believe me lol. He is a believer now though

 

Yeah man, it was an absolute pigsty when I was done, and that was that I made less of a mess than one would expect with it all.

 

This may not be the place for this question but does anyone have ideas about removing the fuel pump... about ready to weld something up and hoped someone has already jumped off that bridge. Anyone?

 

Plenty of us have done it. What’s the exact issue?

 

I am sorry. I should have said that I was looking for a solution for opening the ring that holds the fuel pump enclosure. Something that would allow to open up the tank without having 'the SST"

15 minutes later I had this:


Made from about 16" of 1" steel tube and some 1" strap. I shaped the inner edges of the 1" strap as to mimic the geometry of a mating tooth of the teeth on the circumference of the claping ring.

This took it off, hasle free in seconds. Any local people wanting to use it, pm me.

Each 1" strap welded in 3 places. On both sides of the strap and the horizontal seam closest to the teeth of the tool.

 

Is this the same oe pump that you that did the AEM upgrade had?

 

For mine yes.

 

Not quite sure how the taller pump goes in here. Is there a write-up somewhere?

 

Nope

Just go for it

 

You must be one of those Helpful Honda Guys.

 

There is a write up, Im looking for it. Doesnt go in too detail but better than nothing. . .

 

This isnt the one im looking for but just came across this. Didnt read through it either but it said for a 2nd gen.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fuel-pump-replacement-is-there-an-easy-way.222075/

 

See if this works. This is a thread somewhere on TW that I copied/pasted on my desktop, then emailed myself and put it on goodreader on my Ipad for a backup. Didnt end up using this bc it was easier then I thought though.

EDIT: cool tool you made for the lock ring on the gas tank...but a hammer and punch used gently will take the ring off and also get it snug again. . .

 

Thanks or if you point me in the direction - like site or some-some, just ordered OEM one in case it gets too close to my ETD of Saturday morning.