TRD S/C + URD 7th Injector = ??AFR??

Yes, it should install alongside the AIC wiring.

 

sounds good. I'll get on that.

42 PSI of fuel pressure at idle. Just got it hooked up. Fixing to go drive it and see where it's at while driving around.

 

Done a couple full throttle pulls. Open loop didn't come on until damn near full throttle according to the edge insight and fuel pressure was 55-60 psi from 60% throttle on so I don't think that fuel pressure is the problem. But under full throttle and 9.5-10 psi boost i was sitting at 10.5-11.2 AFR so that's just about perfect. I think i'm going to reset the AIC/T back to the stock tune that gadget had on it and wire in the AFR calibrator and start the tuning process over to make sure that i've got everything going right.

I want to add that i also changed the throttle position sensor (had a napa one on it) to OEM and changed the fuel filter from a WIX to oem toyota fuel filter. I didn't get a chance test the fuel pressure with the WIX fuel filter to see if there was a difference between it and the oem.

 

Do you have a rising FPR, or is your setup instructed to be like that during install? Just curious because I haven't ever worked on your year model/engine.

 

Not gonna lie..you kinda lost me. FPR?

 

Rising " Fuel Pressure Regulator"

 

Not sure. I'm assuming it's the stock fuel pressure regulator. I didn't change anything as far as fuel pressure regulators go.

 

Ok. So then the question is, how did your fuel pressure increase so much from 42 psi at idle?

On the second gens, the fuel pressure stays static at ~43.5 psi. Regardless of an increase in boost. Unless of course a vacuum hose is routed to the FPR from a vacuum/boost source.

 

I believe ours are rising. The vacuum for the FPR comes from the boost port.

 

From Gadget http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/58567-5vz-fe-fuel-pressure.html:

 

^^^^ Yeah. Science!!

So that means that during a full pull, at 9.5-10 psi, i should see 53-54 lbs of fuel pressure on the gauge. Which i'm assuming is right.

I got my vinyl tubing to connect the AFR calibrator, but i had to order the rubber "T" to tie it into the AIC/T tubing. It won't be in til friday at the parts store. Which works out anyways since i'm fixing to have to pull a damn brake line off and make a patch in it.

 

Correct.


Patch the brake line?!

 

Yeah patch. Look in the 1st gen section for the thread. But basically one of my abs lines that run from passenger to driver side has been rubbing on the aluminum cover for the throttle kick down cable and has rubbed a hole in it. I'll have to pull it off and cut the bad spot out and patch it.

 

I may have a brake line for you from my line swap. If so, I can send it out. I never heard of patching a brake line but doesnt sound safe

 

I wouldn't have time to have it shipped. I'm going to napa tomorrow to see if they have some brake line material and i might just build a new line. by patching it, i was going to cut the bad spot, and then flare both ends with male fittings and screw them into a female fitting. No compression fittings or anything. But I might just build a brand new line.

 

What ever you do, makes sure you torture test it before you drive

 

Well it's fixed. The brake line that is. Ends up I had enough extra line where it was coiled up there was enough slack. I just in rolled that, cut it off above the bad spot and re did the end of it. Made sure it wasn't rubbing anything and it seems to be good to go. At least it isn't leaking as of now. I'll do a couple of brake checks on the dirt road before I head to town

 

Well the AFR calibrator was the ticket. My AFR is now reading 11.5-12.0 from 1psi +. The whole time the lean problem was in closed loop mode so the AIC/T couldn't do anything about it.

I will say one thing thought that I did notice. While pulling a hill, i was still at 2000 RPM and went from closed loop to open loop and it leaned out then. Looking at my tune, i don't have any fuel being added at 2000 rpm and 2-3 PSI. I'll have to change that tomorrow but I'm sure it's a rare case. If i would of given it some gas and got up to 2500-3000 rpm, the afr would of dropped because the 7th injector would of been firing.

as far as i can tell, the AFR calibrator should come with the 7th injector kit since it seems like all the leaning out is happening during closed loop mode.

 

My 7th injector kit came with both the AIC and AFR calibrators. Mine is also wired up a little differently because of this. I'm not sure why urd would change that, except more money.

I still ping at 2000 even though I tried adding fuel and retard down there. I need to get a good reader that tells me closed/open loop so I can monitor that better.

 

Mine was pinging when it went to open loop @ 2000 rpm (I was pulling a slight grade but wasn't really giving it much gas). But the problem there is, i don't have any extra fuel added in those cells in the AIC/T and i'm assuming the AFR doesn't tune unless it's in closed loop mode. So i'm going to add some fuel from 0psi @ 1500 rpm on in the AIC/T and hopefully that should straighten it out.

The tune isn't perfect, because it bounces from 10.9-12 throughoutt the closed loop mode but I'll just have to wait til I drive it home so I can get my cousin to help me with the tuning.

And yeah, not sure why they split them up. When you buy the AIC/T you can get the AFR calibrator for $99 instead of $249.99. It would be nice if they could just make it all in one module.