TRD S/C + URD 7th Injector = ??AFR??

What controller are you planning on using for the meth injector?

 

I'm not sure what it is since it's up at my shop right now so I can't look at it. It's a snow performance kit. The kit came with a controller that has a couple dials on it for duration and something else. I haven't gotten into it much yet, but I have the original instructions so when I get time I will study them. I'm not sure if it came with the actual injector though. I don't know what it looks like but nothing obvious popped out to me that it's an injector.

 

How low is low boost for you? I thought 13 was ok. Mine drops to about 13.5 @ 1 psi and continuously drops from there.

 

Under 4 psi I was at 13ish. At 4 pis it would drop to 11.5ish. I added some fuel down there and now I'm a pretty consistent 11.5. I tuned for a while yesterday, but not too hardcore. I really like the way it runs now.

 

Mine is running way better now even with the stock URD tune on the AIC/T. I'm at about 12-12.5 from 1-3 PSI boost and once it hit's 4+ i'm in the neighborhood of 10.5-11.5 on the average. It bounces around a little, but it's pulling better and running smoother. Power seems to come on a little faster now and pulls evenly. I just can't believe that my MAF was causing that much headache and never threw any kind of a code.

 

That's great! Mine afrs are just about dead on with yours. Except I'm more around 13.5-12.5 from 1-3 psi. I'm running the stock fuel map from urd and a tweaked timing map with I adjusted to fix a slight ping around 2000 rpms. My fuel map doesn't add fuel until 3000 rpms. So I am mainly using the closed loop enrichment for most of my daily driving boost.

 

Per your PM a while back, you aren't in open loop much right? For some reason my truck spends a majority of its time in open loop. Whenever I'm boosting it's pretty much open. Even cruising at 70 mph it's open. Tuning has been pretty easy now.

From what I was told, you want to be at 11-12 AFR at any psi. That's what I shot for and am happy with the results.

 

Correct. I don't know if this is an issue but it seems to be ok. I would like to know what EXACTLY tells the ecu to go into open loop. I've read that it's a certain rpm, throttle position, etc... Or even a combo of a few things. Just nothing seemed to be 100 percent certain. If I could figure this out, I could use my scan tool to see if the transition is at the correct point or not. As for you spending the majority of time in open loop, I'm not sure if that's normal. Especially the cruising at 70 mph. I've ALWAYS heard you should be in closed loop when cruising.

 

I guess I should be more specific, highway driving it goes open loop right as I'm giving it more gas for hills. Mine seems to be based on throttle position. As soon as I'm on the gas a fair amount, it open loops

 

I gotcha. That sounds just like my cousins 4.0 taco. His goes into open loop as soon as he gives it some decent throttle. Maybe the older tacos are different. I'll have to email gadget and see what's up. I'm not too worried. My truck runs fine. It would just make tuning a bit more fun/easier.

 

Hi Guys,

I know i have second gen Taco but based on what i've seen on my truck (for some area of the map) there is no absolute transition line based on rpm or throttle position for close to open loop. It's probably more related to the load on the motor.

On my truck i'm mostly in open loop 2500 rpm and more and for TPS of 40% and more.

Just take a look at the graph. The value in the cell is the average between log data where close loop has a value of 0 and open loop 1. For some cells the 2 conditions will happen so you'll have to choose. Blue are totaly close loop and red full open loop. For the TPS between 16 and 20% those results are produced by the deceleration open loop area.

 

Hmm interesting. I will give the graph a look. I was driving on the highway today and decided to man up and stop babying my truck. I was cruising at like 70mph, ~2700 rpms, ~25% tps, closed loop. I then mashed the pedal to the floor (never realized how far down it actually goes because as I said I baby the truck ) and at 70-80% tps, the truck finally went into open loop. It wasn't till about max boost when this happened. So I know the truck will go into open loop, it just takes more than I'd like. This is why the majority of the time I am boosting in closed loop. Gadget actually does mention the ~80% tps for open loop transition in one of his tuning guides so I am assuming this is normal.

 

My transition is definitely long before 80%. I estimate between 40-50%.

 

Kigmob, My truck was doing something similar to yours before I replaced my MAF. I wasn't getting into open loop until way into the throttle in which case I was at 6-7 lbs of boost while still holding a 13-14 AFR. I never threw any codes or anything. Once i replaced the MAF i'm now going into open loop way sooner. Like Isu2014 said, somewhere around the 30-40% throttle at roughly 2600-2800 rpm. Since I replaced the MAF, i haven't been able to take the truck on a good cruise where i could get into the throttle a little. I'll report back once I have.

May be worth just pulling your MAF off and cleaning it up good and see if it works any better. I tried cleaning mine but to no avail.

I do think that I need to do a little tuning with the AFR tuner to get the AFR down to ~12 consistently when i'm in that 1-3 lbs of boost area. I'm at 12-12.5 some of the time, but every now it seems to lean a little more and run in the 13-13.5 range. I'm just tired of pulling the damn glove box out, and the black piece behind it to get to the AFR box.

 

I put my aic in the passenger kick panel and ran the serial cable out of it so I can plug it into my computer without pulling anything apart.

 

I did put the AIC/T in the passenger kick panel but didn't have room for the AFR box. So I put the AFR box on the right side of the airbag above the glove box zip tied to the bracket there. It's tucked way out of the way, but then I have to pull the glove box to plug into it.

 

I found this thread on custom tacos.

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/90568-when-exactly-does-open-loop-kick.html

The guy has the same truck as me and his open loop transition is identical to mine. I am pretty sure the transition I am experiencing is normal.

Gadget also mentions some good info about the open loop transition in this thread. After some testing yesterday, I noticed the 13-13.5 AFR I was seeing at 1-3 psi was not really correct. This AFR was just part of the transition the AFR makes as it is becoming richer. If I hold it at 1-3 psi for 1-2 seconds, I then see the AFR stay right around 12.8 or below which is perfect.

 

Well shit... My ping is back like usual.

I put my rear catalytic converter back on last weekend because it sounded a little too ricey for me. After I did that I still had an exhaust leak, so I bought a new gasket thinking that was the issue. I tuned the truck Sunday with the cat on, but with the exhaust leak.

Well tonight I replace the gasket, start the truck, still got a leak. Crawl under and listen for excessive noise. Bingo, my front oxygen sensor (which is actually an A/F sensor) was almost completely out of the pipe because one nut was gone and the other one was barely threaded on. Got the sensor leak taken care of, go for a drive and my AFR is completely different and screwed. And my ping is back.

 

I have one of those "pingy" 5vz's in low gear/high load, so the only thing to do is tune it out- add fuel, pull timing-- but at really low RPM/High load, it takes so much timing retard you end up not really making any power anyhow, your just sucking engine power putting in into the S/C, and sh*tting out a bunch of fuel.

I'd rather have an electronic controller piggyback on the bypass valve (vacuum tank, solenoid, RPM/TPS input, PWM output etc- sounds like a good arduino project) and simply make sure boost isn't coming on so strong and soon in those load regions- basically a low gear/high load boost avoidance module. For instance, turning on ECT and turning overdrive off, that type of ping is alleviated greatly as the truck will tend to down-shift at those challenging load points vs. holding the gear.

Now, I cheat. I have the TS 5vz tuning package, the AEM FIC included has the flying lead one can use with a switch to ground to switch between two saved maps, so I fill up on E85, switch to the E85 map (adds more fuel across the board, zero's out timing so there is NO timing retard anywhere) and run her hard. E85 looks at low RPM/high load and laughs.

 

What did you change in the tune when you put the cat back on?