Truck is throwing that damn P0101 code!! (SOLVED)

Wouldn't hurt. I forgot about that. Might just be in the plug itself. Just a connection which isnt as good as it could be.

 

I was researching poor mans way to check for vacuum leaks. Came across an interesting idea. Put a rubber glove over the afe intake tube to seal it. Remove passenger side vacuum line (just past maf sensor) from block, light up a cigar and blow smoke into the vacuum tube (engine off). The smoke with travel down past the throttle body etc and if there is in fact a vacuum leak, should come out of the leak. This will show you precisely where the leak is if there is one. Much cheaper than a smoke machine. For the price of a cigar, I figure its worth a shot. Tomorrow I got the day off to really tear into it and sort it out.

 

Interesting. Worth a shot. Xpotopr found a vacuum leak on the blower cap, near the drive pulley. Had to use silicone to reseal the cap.

 

My cigar trick did work. Found a small leak right where the maf sensor goes in. However, it didn't fix the issue. Ran a wide band sensor off the exhaust and pulled a spark plug. All showing signs of running lean. Ripping the charger off tomorrow to look deeper into things

 

How far down the rabbit hole will we go....?

 

Well ripped the charger off. Cleaned it up. Little build up of grime here n there. Cleaned the bypass valve, cleaned the vsv, checked plugs both sides (showing lean) cleaned injectors and bench tested them. Found a small possible kink in the pcv valve line leading back from the catch can to the super. 90° elbow installed on that to remove an potential of future kinks. Potential kink in coolant line that goes through firewall. Fixed that. Installed new fuel filter. Hollowed out driver catalytic, (passenger side broke apart and fell out 20,000 ago) figured this way both sides match in case that was an issue. Headers were magnaflo high flow headers with built in cats. Now they're basically long tubes. Got it all back together and now I see a gas leak at the injectors, so I gotta redo that.. Again

 

I applaud the thorough breakdown.

S/c cap: I imagine the mating gasket is a bit thin and or worn down. Did you add silicone to it?

Injectors: do you add Vaseline or some other lubricant to the o'rings before pressing them into the fuel rail?

 

Sc cap gasket looks brand new and showed no signs of a leak. On second tear down, I added Vaseline to o rings. No fuel leak now. seems to be running better. Still seems lean. Should know more after the ride to work tomorrow

 

One problem down.

 

Been a couple days since my last update. Spoke with gadget and he mentioned swapping back to the stock intake. Well I tried that without any luck. Truck still throws the maf code, O2 sensors show super lean under load and actually a touch rich when not working the truck. Interesting to note, now that I've been watching my fuel trims for over a week now. I notice the long term trims tend to run +28%--+38% but when symptoms occur, they drop way down to +6%. I wish I knew more about how long terms trims work, but they jump all around when truck is acting up... Its really got me thinking is the walboro255 fuel pump. It's the only thing I haven't checked. I don't know a way to bench test it though. I could get the fuel rail tap from urd and a gauge to measure fuel pressure but that's about the only way I know and not a cheap option either.

 

From my understanding you need to run a fmu or regulator with the 255lph.

 

They have stock regulators attached to the fuel rail to my understanding. Gadget recommended I get that fuel pump when I got the 2.825 pulley so I did. He didn't mention the fmu. I plan to call him again tomorrow regarding my issues. Hopefully he can shed more light on the subject. Thanks for the heads up. Those are both things I can ask him about

 

Might have a fuel hose problem, attached to the pump itself.

 

No FMU is needed. The OEM regulator work decent enough. In my opinion, and that of the industry, it should be used with a vacuum/boost source. (I.E. FPR mod) However, without a tuning solution, it will just make the OPEN LOOP fueling overly rich until more boost is added, or tuning comes into play.

 

https://youtu.be/9QbdkGVX3W0

 

Torspd, are you more inclined to believe its a kinked hose/damaged hose inside the fuel tank or the pump itself failing?

 

Most problems people have had with the pump upgrade, has been something with the installation of the hose. Kink, tear, split.....

Investigation will prove if your hose does have a problem or not.

 

Well that's an easy fix, be it a pain in the a$$ to get to. I'll rip the bed off this weekend to investigate and report back. I don't think I can use enough fuel to drop the tank by then and tank is currently full

 

To bad you don't have a jack that gets high enough. I use a little HF trans jack for the job.

 

I've heard pulling the bed isnt much harder if not easier. I've dropped the tank 3 or 4x now. Now one of the straps is messed up and a pain to get back in place so I'll try removing the bed this time.