Truck won't move in 4x4 with wheels turned

Just do what I do and drive around always in 4x4. It keeps everything lubed permanently. The reason you hear binding on dry pavement while turning is because it's not lubed enough!

 

x2.

Reading the owner's manual infuriates me. It tells you the most half-useless shit about so many of the systems. What it tells you isn't the problem...what they leave out is.

There needs to be a LOT more detail in the sections on the 4wd system and locking differential about how seriously you can destroy your drivetrain by misusing these tools, and there needs to be some thorough discussion of what not to do with them.

 

Never read a second gen manual, but it doesn't say not to operate on dry pavement? I think my first gen manual does (not 100% sure though -- can let ya know when I get home).

 

Nope. Tells you what TO do when operating it, doesn't say shit about what NOT to do.

It does say "use if vehicle has lost traction in 2wd" or something to that effect. I guess they're assuming that's sufficient. Apparently ToMoCo doesn't realize people are curious and naturally drawn to buttons...

 

That sucks. Like I said, I'm pretty sure mine says not to. It even discusses slightly the difference between ADD and manual hubs.

 

I double checked the manual and all it says is "You should drive in four-wheel drive for at least 10 miles each month". No warnings about turning on hard pavement or anything telling you not to force the vehicle to move by giving it more gas. It's good thing I knew better and didn't force it once I felt some resistance. I just switched back to 2wd but I would imagine that are people who wouldn't know better and just give it more gas.

 

I wonder how many people who experience front diff vibes after lifting have at one time or another tried making sharp turns in H4 on dry pavement? Wonder if that might have anything to do with that needle bearing going bad. I know I tried making sharp turns on pavement in H4 back when my truck was new, before I knew any better.

 

I did do that in the snow we had this past winter. I was at almost full turn in alot of situations in the snow and had the binding, and just gave it more gas to go. I thought that is what caused my original vibration problem. Since then I haven't used my 4wd in any situation beside the strait pavement at reasonalble speeds and the vibe is back. I believe that(and this is just my unproven belief) that the vibe is created by the cv axles design, as they have more of a possibility to bind up and not have a fluid rotation. Especially since my vibe is intermittent and I can make it go away, sometimes.

 

X3!

 

The front diff does not spin only the axles, roll under the truck and see if you can turn the front drive shaft with the wheels on the ground. Toyota is not the only one that uses a front disconnect diff GM has used it for years. The binding you feel is the front inside wheel trying to be driven faster then it is going by the outside rear wheel is this good for any thing probably not is it going to trash it in short order no. The transfer case in the Taco lacks a differential this is the big difference between full time 4 wheel drive and a part time one it's all about economy. For you guys old enough to have driven old Military stuff if you think the Taco is bad try a 1 1/2 ton truck on the pavement it would take the steering wheel out of your hand when you tried to make a hard turn. I agree with the actuator bit I had wicked problems with my new one until it had been used several times.

 

If drivetrain binding is what causes this issue then it doesn't matter whether you have traction or not, the same issue will arise if you turn hard when off-roading. Are you supposed to off-road only in straight lines. Hard steering when making moderately sharp turns in 4x4 when you have traction I can believe. Not being able to move the truck without destroying something I can't. Something doesn't seem right.

 

Sort of. It would be more accurate to say a portion of the front diff spins.

Both axles spin when driven in 2wd, but only one of them is actually engaged into the front-diff spider gears. This is why you can turn the driveshaft by hand when both front wheels are on the ground - one of the axles is disconnected, hence the name "automatic disconnecting differential".

The shaft that's still connected will still turn the spline and spiders, and keep them lubed (they're in the oil bath anyway). The spline of the disconnected half shaft turns too. However, since it's not providing resistance to the connected side, the ring and pinion, and connected driveshaft, do not turn. This doesn't really concern me. 20 feet in 4wd, and everything in the diff will have been dunked in gear oil.

Their manual recommendation of "to keep it lubed" is silly.

 

Well crank it over and let er rip then .

 

The subject will make more sense after you read this:

http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnpart.html

 

Even while offroading I make a point to not make sharp turns. The binding happens when there's no give to the suface like pavement, soild rock, hard pack dirt, etc. I've even had it happen on dry snow in parking lots. Just make a habit to make gradual turns while it 4WD. I do this even while offroading by backing up and going forward a couple times to make the turn more gradual while in tight spots. See links below about driving on pavement...

 

x2

 

its driveline binding because the front tries to turn faster than the rear when turning sharp. if you are off road on a surface that require 4wd, the surface will give and you wont feel it. Slipping in mud or snow or sand allows the drive train to move freely because the rear is allowed to spin at the front drivelines speed. on pavement the coefficient of friction between rubber and black top is like .9 so the tires wont slip therefore the strain goes on your driveline...

so when you need traction you are safe to turn the wheel, if you can make it effortlessly in 2wd, then dont have it in 4wd...

 

Hi to all, I am new to the site but not new to 4x4 or Toyotas. Sorry to bring up an oldish thread but it was in my search results. I am baffled by the amount of binding that my '09 Tacoma has in 4x4. I've owned it since new and it is well maintained. I have used 4x4 only in snow and to get out of my muddy yard.
In reverse, 4H mode my truck binds up after only a few feet while making slight turns. Going forward it will unbind only if the wheels are perfectly straight, otherwise it is not going anywhere without breaking something( not yet but feels like).
After reading some of the problems of others ( and the replies) it seems that the new Toyotas indeed have issues.
I've had other 4x4s including a few Toyotas that didn't bind like this and all were offroaded, and driven in 4x4 on hardpack and blacktop(gasp) without the exaggerated binding or breaking anything.
I am doing research on this now because winter is coming and after 2 seasons of dealing with it, is there a fix or maybe I need to trade it for a 4x4 that works?

Phil

 

The Tacoma uses a part time 4wd system without a center differential inside the transfer case. Anytime you turn, whether in 4x4 mode or not, there is a difference between how far the front wheels travel inside the turn, and how far the rear wheels travel. This type of transfer case will not allow any slip to make up for this. That's why you can't use 4x4 in conditions where the tires will not slip.

Mine will bind up in tight turns on a hard surface dirt road. If I come up on a loose section of washed out road and I am going uphill, I will shift into 4hi before I get there, so I don't spin my tires and tear up the road worse than it is. But I don't leave it in all the time because of the binding. I used to drive my 86 Toyota truck on the same roads, and it always did the same thing. The 86 also didn't like twisty two lane roads in 4HI either. I tried it a few times in heavy rain, and had a hell of a time getting the shifter out of 4hi because of the gear bind.

Were your past vehicles part time 4wd, full time 4wd, or selectable full or part time? For example: fullsize chevy trucks have selectable full time that can be used on hard surfaces if you want to. Toyota Landcruisers are fulltime 4x4. And I think FJ Cruisers are full time 4x4 also.

The only way I think you'll be happy is with a full time transfercase. As far as modifying the Tacoma, maybe the 4runner's transfercase is fulltime? That may bolt in to your truck. Otherwise I think you need something will full time 4x4 from the factory.