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Truck won't start:

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by sirsaechao, Jul 3, 2013.

  1. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:20 PM
    #1
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A lift, some wheels, some tires, some performance, some cosmetic and then audio.
    Battery? alternator? starter? I heard the click click or tick tick tick sound only. Took the battery (07 Optima Red Top) to AutoZone. Only at 11 volt. Have to leave it over night to see if it is the battery. Any ideas? Starter?
     
  2. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM
    #2
    drunktaco

    drunktaco Well-Known Member

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    Icon ext travel C/O's, Total Chaos UCA's, King R/R shocks, All-Pro leaf pack, lights, RCI skid, Brute Force sliders, ect.
    Click/tick would be your starter making that sound. Most likely you need a new battery. 6 years is pushing it for a battery.
     
  3. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:21 PM
    #3
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    clean your contacts and make sure they're actually getting tight on the battery posts. I had this happen a few years ago, I had to replace my terminal connectors on both the positive and negative cables.
     
  4. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #4
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll wait till am to see if the battery holds a charge then see. Tried jumping and nothing.
     
  5. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #5
    somethinboutayota

    somethinboutayota Dorthy left Kansas for a reason

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    the only way to know for sure is to check out the battery, solenoid and starter. If you hear a clicking noise, it means voltage is getting through to the solenoid. But there may not be enough voltage to spin the starter. So start with the battery and cables.
     
  6. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #6
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Probably battery. Sometimes they're so dead they cant even be jumped.
     
  7. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:37 PM
    #7
    Dibblit

    Dibblit Eh?

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    11 volts should be enough to get your starter to turn... Verify the connections at the starter are tight and corrosion free, verify power is crossing your starter solenoid. If it is you have a dead spot in your starter windings. Some times it can be freed up by giving the starter housing a few light taps with a hammer. Not always though.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
  8. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:52 PM
    #8
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A lift, some wheels, some tires, some performance, some cosmetic and then audio.
    I will have to check it tomorrow. In the meantime...wait for it...sad face:
    IMG_2889_zps42c3bd4d_b11df3fbb06228b4ac6e70a5d1700b2c99f2e28f.jpg
     
  9. Jul 3, 2013 at 8:57 PM
    #9
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    11 volts is not enough. It should be around 14 volts. Probably a shot battery.
     
  10. Jul 3, 2013 at 9:04 PM
    #10
    Dibblit

    Dibblit Eh?

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    In a non use condition optimal batter charge is 12.6v. 14v is what the alternator puts out to charge the battery and keep all the truck functions powered.


    Load test the battery with it disconnected, if you have access to a tester. The battery will need to be at full charge when you test.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
  11. Jul 4, 2013 at 9:49 AM
    #11
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A lift, some wheels, some tires, some performance, some cosmetic and then audio.
    2007 Optima Red Top took a dump and replaced it with this...fired right up:
    IMG_2890_zpsda5499a6_7692b62fc2fb60967621f7c3559e1193caddd8b3.jpg
     
  12. Jul 4, 2013 at 10:09 AM
    #12
    arifleman

    arifleman Well-Known Member

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    Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Yep, batteries can be relied on for about four years. After that you are on borrowed time. Before I got my Tacoma, I had automatic tranny rigs and I replaced my batteries at four year intervals since I get back in the woods a ways. No fun to have a rig that won't turn over when you're 20 miles up the back roads (ask me how I know)!!
     
  13. Jul 6, 2013 at 11:21 AM
    #13
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    For wet "Maintenance Free", AGM, or Gel Cell batteries with the surface charge removed and at 80 degrees F, the approximate State-of-Charge open circuit voltages measured with a digital voltmeter are:

    12.80 VDC @ 100%
    12.60 VDC @ 75%
    12.30 VDC @ 50%
    12.00 VDC @ 25%
    11.80 VDC @ 0%

    For more information on testing batteries, see Section 4 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org.
     
  14. Feb 3, 2020 at 11:23 AM
    #14
    Dufus

    Dufus Well-Known Member

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    Located in Colorado
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    Mods: bent frame and sun weathered roof paint.
    Bringing up old stuff again, but I tried to start the truck up and all I heard was the starter clicking. Oddly enough, this happened right after I finished replacing my fuel injectors, so I thought I really botched something up somehow because of the timing but...

    Lifted up the positive boot cover.
    IMG_8504.jpg

    Gave her a bath and started right up.
    IMG_8505.jpg

    I am pushing almost 6 years on the battery, but I'll drain all the juice I can out of it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2020
  15. Feb 4, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #15
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    The corrosion on the battery post and lugs form a high resistive barrier that prevents the high current to activate the starter motor and the alternator from properly recharging the battery. The battery, alternator, and starter are all codependent on each other and need to be healthy for engine starts. I would recommend fully recharging the battery to get rid of any sulfation build up and have the alternator voltage tested and battery conductance tested, so you will not get stuck someplace requiring an expensive tow.
     
    Dufus[QUOTED] likes this.

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