Turbo BS Thread

just go find an r150f with a tcase on it already at a junk yard. One and done. Its the same tranny as an r154 just different ratios so plenty strong for a 350hp v8.

Only other option if you want a manual IMO is a T56 with an atlas. Which will cost about 3x as much easily haha

 

If/when my w59 blows the r150f will be the choice

 

general consensus is that the turbo with the cx kit is too big. what would the ideal sized turbo be for the 5vz that wont ever go over 300whp? preferably one of the cx turbos so i can order with the headers. (im not getting the full kit to piece together my own).

think this was discussed in brices thread but im too lazy to search through.

 

The w in w-series means "when" it's going to blow with power.

 

Pulled my plugs...have about 10k miles on them.

 

Ahh just got these codes after ordering from Luis it's like Murphy's law... will the haltech pnp system replace the stock ECM? That'd be nice considering

 

I would say anybody who has a turbo or supercharger project going should probably invest in one of these and the app for your phone

 

That spark patter does not look even.

Did you upgrade the fuel pump, with that kit?

Did you change your fuel filter?

It did come with larger injectors correct?

How much boost are you running?

 

Yes, I agree. Doesn't look even. I changed to pink top injectors and the 5th injector. Changed fuel filter about 30k miles ago with an oem filter. Did not replace fuel pump. LCE says you don't have to on 3rz...i do however have a walbro 190 sitting in my garage.

It's an 8 psi pulley. Waiting for my boost guage to come in the mail.

 

I have lots of boost around 2500 rpm. Then when it hits 3k it seems to stop.

 

Anyone whose built their turbo setup on a 3rz can you pm me

 

Since you had an o2 code, your ECU was probably stuck in open loop which will constantly run rich (11-12:1 AFR). Should be good after the o2 thing is sorted out

 

Glad you replaced the filter.

Alright, so it seems you have an s/c. I am going to assume that you have over 100k miles on the engine. With that many miles, as well as the amount of demand that your fuel system is requiring, I highly doubt the stock fuel pump is sufficient. If you want to do the math, to find the MAX duty cycle of your OEM pump, all you need to know is its lph and the capable bhp.

An AFR gauge is a necessity at this point. Install the pump, and get that gauge.

Also check to make sure no pinched vacuum lines to the bypass valve, and that the bypass valve moves freely.

 

Post a pic of your intake. If I have any obstructions or bends (including an air filter that's too short) before the MAF, Ive had experiences where the ECU goes into limp mode ONLY in boost and the timing gets pulled until there is no more boost.
I'd be willing to bet your MAF has a bend before it or an awkwardly sized filter before it.

 

I have the stock intake with a afe dry filter. I have a snorkel and deck plate mod as well...ive tried both. Deck plate in and out.

 

I'm curious to see it though.
EDIT: oh, stock air box too??
Clean your MAF then.
Like I said, if the sensing parameters pass a certain threshold, the ECU will cut timing to the point where boost completely stops. I'm not 100% sure if this phenomenon applies to SC, but for me it's like an intake hose blows off (cutting boost), but it's all because of the ECU cutting timing

 

He left pics on the other page

 

Yes about 200k miles. I have an afr gauge. Just need to install it. So you recommend replacing the fuel pump regardless?

 

Once I hit 3000 rpm I almost immediately hear a tapping noise. Almost like a valve tap. Not real loud. I've never heard detonation before so maybe that's what I hear? I didn't hear it before when I had 4 psi.