Turbo BS Thread

I replaced the FPR and that seems to have resolved the issue plus yet another vacuum line was off so I made sure to tie strap all of them plus pressure is back to normal at 47psi.

 

Heck yes

Nice diagnosis @Torspd

 

Woooo good job jstand

 

That is great to hear!

 

I think that might be what's making me run so lean.
I replaced the MAF and the fuel filter with little to no change.
That's the last thing I can think of since my WOT AFR's are perfect and every sensor related to air and fueling has been replaced... ugh!
I would test it, but being how irritating and time consuming it would be to test the fuel rail pressure on the 3.4, I might as well just throw a new FPR in there.

 

FPR's for everybody!!!

 

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enth...li=BBisPVf&ocid=spartanntp#image=AArsUeN_1|10

Not too much turbo related but a pretty good write up on how mazda new spcci motor works. Pretty wild read.

 

37:1 afrs. damn.

 

It's something else if that motor comes out as they say.

 

I still seem to have an intermittent hesitation at WOT like something is holding it back and then lets go but i think the FPR was bad too because the fuel pressure is normal now. Everything is new now except the Ignition coils and the catalytic converter so and it is intermittent because i keep thinking its fixed

 

Maybe another vacuum leak, hidding out of sight?

 

I have a pump for you for free if you want. 255 iirc.

 

How old is you O2 sensor? The only thing I can think is its not running well in closed loop and pulls hard in open loop.

Maybe your boosting too hard in closed loop causing slight ping and timing retard? I get well onto the 12s and 11s in open loop and don't boost too hard in closed so I havent bother with tuning yet. You might want to get a tuner to fix your closed loop boost.

 

Its a new sensor im going to check the coils i think next

 

Generally coils a either good and you get spark, or bad and you don't. The fact that it runs well means you are getting good spark. The hick up, I believe, is die to something with your computer.

It it's a mechanical issue, generally it will run bad the entire time. A bad spark will only get worse as boost builds.

 

Not necessarily. I had a bad coil that when in WOT would make the truck shudder and shake, then take off strong just a couple seconds later. It ended up shuddering all the time in WOT as it further wore out, but started doing it intermittently. An easy and cheap way to tell if it's the coil (in my experience) is to take your plugs and gap them down ridiculously small (like.018 to .020"), throw them back in and hit the highway.
Gaps that small should make idle run like hell but WOT boost smooth with no hesitation.
If you get no more WOT hesitation, then you know that your coils are weak and need replacing.
Also Jstand, have you checked your pending codes? You may have a timing related sensor on its last leg (knock, cam, crank etc....)

 

I'll check this thx

 

Does anyone know if the nuts for the bed mounts are accessible from inside the bed? Started to work on replacing my fuel pump. First bolt just spins from underneath. Tried another one and same things happened...

 

There are 6 all together all on the bottom one on each side are nuts then two bolts on each side towards the cab. The nuts have metal plates on the other end that lock them in place when tight so if you've loosened them and push up they might spin. The way I did it was take off the nut and bolts on the driver side and just loosen the ones on the passenger side. Lift the driver side enough to reach the pump comfortable and make sure it's secure so it won't drop on you. Watch out for the wire harnesses you may have to disconnect some of them

 

Yeah I'm pretty sure the nuts or whatever that are inside that crewmember are bent or something. I used an impact and the bolts just spin. Won't loosen or tighten. Fml.