Turbo BS Thread

aeromotive a1000-6 is simple to use. just needs mounted somewhere

 

Hmm... looks simple enough. Added to my Amazon cart

 

I believe mine is the 13101, in black and red.

 

I know this is not the supercharger thread, but look at what's coming next at the end of the episode...

 

I'd love for them to just try to blow a 3.5 lol

 

So you're leaning out and you have large negative fuel trims? That doesn't sound like an fpr to me. If the ecm is reading a lean voltage from the primary o2 it will add fuel. You would be seeing positive trims. You might try checking your o2 voltages at the ecm to specifications. The only time the ecm wouldn't get your afrs back to stoich in CL is when the trims are maxed out which I believe is at +/-20 for each.

I just use a cheap obd2 scanner to tune. Shows live fuel trims, etc, iat, timing, and o2 voltage.

Are you using a piggy back or larger injectors?

 

Nope... stock injectors and methanol to fill in the gap at WOT. This is driving me nuts!
How would one go about fixing this issue if the o2 is freshly replaced with no improvement?

 

I would start with a scan tool and see what the o2 voltages are doing when you have the lean condition.

You can also get a fuel pressure gauge and T it into the soft line which connects into the fuel rail to test the fpr.

 

The upstream o2 is reading pretty darn randomly actually. From .300 ish to .600 ish while leaning out

 

Yea I notic d too and agree just worn out parts

 

Damn $200 for a fpr wtf?

 

For a quality one, the will be around $150 and up. My Fuel Lab was around $175.

 

in the grand scheme of things thats a cheap part on a turbo build.

 

I started up the truck just now to go to work and for some reason the vacuum high between 13 and 15 but it changed after it warmed up back to usual. Is it the gauge or part of the issue. This has happened before a few times

 

The gauge or the sensor

 

Found another culprit.......wondering if the drag this was creating could effect afr? Putting new in right now.

https://youtu.be/yuPFkxJEuIc

 

Increased load would create a more rich condition. If that is what yours was doing, running more rich than usual.

A clear indication would be referenced against a known good 'normal' operation. The boost gauge would read a specific amount of vacuum at a set cruising speed.

Increased drag from a failing component, would increase the load on the engine, referenced to the above vacuum, at that same cruising speed. Reading less vacuum on the gauge. Which could then, depending on how your tune is, also show that the AFR is more rich. Since the needle would be closer to atmosphere, on the boost gauge.

 

How freely does it spin by hand, then also if you angle it, simulating drive shaft load, does it have even more resistance?

 

Next week ill be putting in the wide-band AFR gauge and re welding the down-pipe so ill see whats going on i hope

 

I am curious to know what the numbers are under the various loads.