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Turbo BS Thread

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Clay_916, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. Oct 9, 2017 at 1:38 PM
    #3101
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Negative. That was only to show you the MAF. The turbo is not installed.
     
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  2. Oct 9, 2017 at 1:59 PM
    #3102
    Jcyr

    Jcyr Midnightthetaco

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    I do enjoy the engine bay looks clean and spacious
     
  3. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:32 PM
    #3103
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    If it's dumb but it works it's not dumb right20171009_162833.jpg
     
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  4. Oct 9, 2017 at 2:38 PM
    #3104
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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  5. Oct 9, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    #3105
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Put 12... More gal of e85 in her today (had a $25 gift card) and it seemed like the ltft were a little lean (10% ish) during my ~40mph driving but the ~55mph cruise was perfect but stft looked good for the most part along with afrs and i did another boost pull to ~4psi just "eased into it" like just more than half throttle and it pulled super smooth, no stumbly hiccup or anything. Im hooked and ready to finish and i think this weekend was just the motivation i needed
     
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  6. Oct 9, 2017 at 3:37 PM
    #3106
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    That’s right !!
     
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  7. Oct 9, 2017 at 4:57 PM
    #3107
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    When does the ECU go from CLOSED to OPEN loop? Is it at a certain RPM?
     
    Jcyr likes this.
  8. Oct 9, 2017 at 4:59 PM
    #3108
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    From what I've read it's based on engine load, so it's dependant on RPM/TPS/MAF.
     
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  9. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:01 PM
    #3109
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    GTX 3071r @8psi...
    There's multiple variables, and the easiest way to see is with a Bluetooth or Wi-Fi OBDII adapter, along with the Torque app. You'll be able to monitor what loop its currently in, as well as see the switch. If you have an android phone, total cost is no more than $30
     
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  10. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:07 PM
    #3110
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    Thanks, but I don’t have an Android.
    IF I were to only get a MAF or AFR from URD, which would I get for interstate driving @2200 RPM? I’m not interested in low RPM or off the line performance. I just want to have the power to get up hills in 5th (2TR-FE).
     
  11. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:17 PM
    #3111
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    GTX 3071r @8psi...
    Do you have any other modifications? Biggest increase in drivability I found was LCE header mated to a MagnaFlow muffler in a new 2.5" system. I don't have any other performance mods besides an AFE drop-in filter currently. I find 5th is fine for me now, except on steep hills where I start less than 60mph..I'm also the 2tr.... Which is why I'm going turbo lol
     
  12. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:33 PM
    #3112
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    With that SC that you're working on installing, you're going to want to tune throughout the RPM range, and you're going to have to tune in both closed and open loop. To tune when the ECU is in closed loop, you have to trick the ECU into thinking that the AFR is reading 14.7 even if it's not. For example, if you want to run say a 12.5:1 AFR in closed loop, you have to alter the AFR signal to tell ECU that the AFR is lean, so it dumps fuel to get you to 12.5:1, and then you adjust the MAF signal to get the STFT and LTFT as close to 0 as you can.

    This means that you would need both the URD MAF and AFR calibrators. However, the MAPECU3 and AFR module is a much more powerful tuning solution than the URD MAF calibrator and URD AFR calibrator.
     
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  13. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:33 PM
    #3113
    MadTaco461

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    Hills I used to do in 4th near pined can now hit in overdrive part spool. I shift way less now.
     
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  14. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:50 PM
    #3114
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    How do you use the afr module exactly? I have mine wired in and i guess i havent really gotten to closed loop boost tuning yet but is there something in the software you can get into to access these things?
     
  15. Oct 9, 2017 at 7:24 PM
    #3115
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    I want to see what I can do before a piggyback and wonder what would be the biggest injectors I can put with the stock ECU and is there a cheap affective water meth injection kit for say under $150 does anyone have any ideas
     
  16. Oct 9, 2017 at 7:28 PM
    #3116
    Brice

    Brice Turbo Member

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    You can make your own kit and any injectors over stock size will cause the trims to go negative, and if they get to big the truck will just run rich and throw a cel or faulty injector code. Or atleast the 5vz will.
     
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  17. Oct 9, 2017 at 9:17 PM
    #3117
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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    Afr adjust table. I believe you add to the cell you adjust. For example you add 1.0 you get output 14.7+1.0=15.7
    Truck says shit I'm lean. Boom you'll be hitting 13.7. Once it self tunes.
    I'd suggest getting a real afr gauge before doing this because torque only sees what the ecu sees. You won't know if you went the correct way.
    Helps get that turbo spinning faster in the low rpms by running a bit more rich.
     
    yota243[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Oct 10, 2017 at 12:25 AM
    #3118
    GioGuitarDude

    GioGuitarDude Well-Known Member

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    Your ECU is going to hate bigger injectors (been there done that... threw some 330 injectors in my truck years back thinking the ECU would learn around them but puppy ran RICH AF).
    If you get bigger injectors, you will NEED a piggyback/stand alone, which is minimum $400 for parts alone. If cost is a major factor, I would either make the choice between injectors+piggyback+tune OR decent ($300+) methanol kit. I’ve been chuggin along at 8psi with all stock fueling and an AEM 30-3300 methanol kit. There is ZERO incentive to put bigger injectors in my truck.
     
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  19. Oct 10, 2017 at 2:50 AM
    #3119
    buyobuyo

    buyobuyo Read The Fucking Manual

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    A thing or two...
    As @MadTaco461 said, the afr table is what you want to adjust. It's not as easy as just putting in 1.0 for a 1 point change in afr but that's the basic concept. Make small adjustments and watch a wideband to see what the changes are doing.
     
  20. Oct 10, 2017 at 5:17 AM
    #3120
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    well I have a pending p2198 rich bank 2 sensor 1 which doesn't make a lot of since my fuel trims if anything over the last 60 miles have been a touch lean, or is this because of that and it is over correcting? (I'm pretty much now on 100% e85 and had tuned on like a 5:1 ish ratio of e85 so that's why its slightly leaner)
     

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